Curious about my D35...

Steve Weeks

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I have a Guild D35 that I bought new in 1969. The label says "Hoboken". I understand that production was moved to Rhode Island a couple years before this. So... were they using up old labels, or was my D35 sitting around for a couple years before I got my hands on it? :unsure:

Guild D35 label.jpg
 

Westerly Wood

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Even if it was made in Westerly, as is a fact that Westerly was using Hoboken inventory around this time, for sure, TRCs, labels, wood etc...I still think it is super cool you got a Hoboken label. My TRC is from Hoboken, even though my 1971 D25 BR was made in Westerly. I bet your D35 is quite light too.
 

Guilderland21

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Based on the chart that's available online, I wouldn't expect this guitar to be older than 1969. The serial number is actually higher than the last one they list for 1969 (but the chart is known to be inaccurate in some cases). They switched to a different numbering system at some point in 1970.

Someone with a more definitive answer may come by. In any case, as Westerly Wood said, they did use some labels that said Hoboken in the early years of production in Westerly.
 

Norrissey

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So... were they using up old labels, or was my D35 sitting around for a couple years before I got my hands on it?
As mentioned above, they were using up old Hoboken labels for 2-3 years after the move from Hoboken to Westerly (the move happened gradually in later 1967 and 1968) I have 4 Westerly built Guilds from 1969-1970 with Hoboken labels. I even have a '71 D35 that has a Hoboken label but that seems to be an oddball, Guild was mostly using a transition label by then. I'm sure your D35 is an awesome guitar. I love Guilds from that period. That's so cool you are the original owner and that you have kept it all these years.
 
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Steve Weeks

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Even if it was made in Westerly, as is a fact that Westerly was using Hoboken inventory around this time, for sure, TRCs, labels, wood etc...I still think it is super cool you got a Hoboken label. My TRC is from Hoboken, even though my 1971 D25 BR was made in Westerly. I bet your D35 is quite light too.
I'll have to weigh it! I've never complained about the weight, and it has never occurred to me to check. Stay tuned (so to speak!).
 

Steve Weeks

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Steve, that guitar was built in Westerly in 1970.

What the others said is correct that Hoboken labels were used in Westerly for a while during the transition.
Well, that's interesting! I have the original receipt for this guitar dated August 30, 1969.
Also, I must have had a question about string tension, because I have a note from "Guild" (signed as such) dated October 3, 1969, when I'd had the instrument for about a month. I'm at peace with the notion that it might not have been made in Hoboken. :)
Guild Note.jpg
 

Westerly Wood

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Well, that's interesting! I have the original receipt for this guitar dated August 30, 1969.
Also, I must have had a question about string tension, because I have a note from "Guild" (signed as such) dated October 3, 1969, when I'd had the instrument for about a month. I'm at peace with the notion that it might not have been made in Hoboken. :)
Guild Note.jpg
Wow, that note is really cool.
 

Steve Weeks

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It was handy (and a bit miraculous!) that I had the receipt. About 10-15 years ago (IIRC) the bridge was starting to peel off. Several shops I queried said they'd fix it, but the warranty was not applicable because Guild had been acquired by Fender. I eventually checked with Guitar Works in Evanston, IL, and they said they'd see what Fender would say. about a week later I got a call saying Fender would cover the repair!
 

chazmo

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Well, that's interesting! I have the original receipt for this guitar dated August 30, 1969.
Also, I must have had a question about string tension, because I have a note from "Guild" (signed as such) dated October 3, 1969, when I'd had the instrument for about a month. I'm at peace with the notion that it might not have been made in Hoboken. :)
Guild Note.jpg
I stand corrected, Steve!!!!! Your note from Guild proves that it's clearly not a 1970 build! Also, knowing that it had to be before 1970, I'm no longer certain about Westerly vs. Hoboken. I was using charts and information from the bible for OJ1754 to date your it.

Do you have a picture of the serial stamp on the back of the headstock, Steve.

Thanks for sending that along. I wonder if @hansmoust would like to follow up with you.
 

Steve Weeks

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Do you have a picture of the serial stamp on the back of the headstock, Steve.
I've scrutinized the back of the headstock, and all I can see is that one of the tuner screws has been replaced with a slot-head! When that happened I have no idea. But I don't see any stamping. I just have the label inside the body.
Guild D35 headstock back.jpgGuild D35 SN Label.jpg
 

Norrissey

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Ah Guild. That's odd that your headstock doesn't have a serial number on it. The serial number on the label indicates a 1970 guitar but obviously you bought it in 1969 based on that letter. I'm still guessing it's an early Westerly made guitar. (the Hoboken address on your letter is not totally surprising because I recall Guild did repairs at the Hoboken location and had a presence there into the early '70s, well after manufacturing was moved to Westerly) Perhaps @hansmoust will weigh in if he has anything more to add. Could you indulge us some nice front and back pics of your D35? We love looking at guitars here : )
 

chazmo

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@Steve Weeks , do you think it'd be possible for you to post the original receipt? Does the receipt list details about the guitar (i.e., model name, serial number)?

I's just curiosity on my part as I'd like to get you real answers, if possible, about it. The serial number, which is way beyond the end of 1969, and the lack of a stamp on the back of the headstock are most interesting!

By the way, I saw all the rest of the pictures in your introductions thread. Thanks for those, and she's a beauty!!! It's really nice to see one in such well-cared-for condition! I note that there appear to be some possible cracks (not sure) forming at the end of the fretboard that might indicate some nascent neck dive. If she's not playing perfectly you might want to have her set up.
 

Steve Weeks

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@Steve Weeks , do you think it'd be possible for you to post the original receipt? Does the receipt list details about the guitar (i.e., model name, serial number)?
Here are all the traces I have of the original purpose. I bought the guitar from my teacher, Herb Roth. Herb must have had some sort of relationship with several guitar manufacturers, as I also bought a new Gretsch "Tennessean" from him. I traded in a nylon-string Guild Mark I when I bought the D35. I don't remember why one receipt is dated 8/29 and the other 8/30. I also don't know why he used quotation marks for "Guild" on the 8/29 receipt... maybe it's not a real Guild! (/s).
I'll be interested to hear what you make of this!
(FWIW, there is no relevant "personal information" here; Herb's studio is long-gone, and I've moved about 10 times!)
Guild D35 tag front and back.jpgGuild D35 tag and receipt.jpgGuild D35 receipt.jpg

The action is a tad bit high (any specs on what it *should* be?). When the bridge was re-attached, Guitar works told me the neck could be re-set to make it "perfect", but I find it playable. When my son was using it, his teacher and some other guitarists passed it around and said it was fine. What does "setting up" involve? Thanks!
 

midnightright

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What does "setting up" involve? Thanks!
A little, to a lot! ;) Depending on who does it. It sounds like, at a place you brought it to. They'd do whatever is necessary to make it as playable as possible - or as easy to play, as can be made to do by making some routine adjustments to the instrument. In order to get the action at a comfortable playing height for you, and the kind of music you like to play. That is true, that it can be technically in the range of qualifying for a neck reset. But not necessary for you, the player, who does (if they don't, that is) find it troubling, or too concerning to play (say for instance: from frets 10-15). You may be able to play it like it is for a while, until the geometry shifts enough to the point where it is going to be inevitable. Keep in mind, that is it somewhat of an invasive, procedure. And you can sometimes incur a change in tone once the instrument is returned to you. As it kind of recovers from the shock of the trauma, or treatment, so to speak. But eventually, over time, from what I understand it will begin to come back (the sound). How much, or how close, I don't honestly know? Good luck, & best wishes! Tremendous resources you've managed to maintain even after all these years! And an impressive instrument, to boot--I'd bet~*> ;) peace
 
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