It just occurred to me that we're approaching a decade or so of the original NS models (175s, M-75s, Starfires, etc). Those of you that have had a few, have we begun to notice any variation in spec/quality over the years? Seems like most of the early 2010s ones I see for sale online still look virtually new. Have all of them come out of the Samick factory? Cort?
Newark Street over the years
- Thread starter kakerlak
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Walter Broes
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I had a sunburst FMIC-era X175 for a while (bought new), and that still came with two bridge saddles, one for wound G, one for plain. It also had a neck that was closer to what a 59 or 60 X175 would have had : bigger, rounder back profile, and maybe even a slightly narrower nut width. (not sure about that, never measured, but it felt that way). I had to sell that one because I needed the money, I wish I still had it.
The black 2015-ish X175 I have now has a less substantial, more oval shaped neck (what's commonly called a "C" profile I guess), and it didn't come with the extra plain-G saddle.
The black 2015-ish X175 I have now has a less substantial, more oval shaped neck (what's commonly called a "C" profile I guess), and it didn't come with the extra plain-G saddle.
Thanks for the anecdotes, @Walter Broes
The reason I mentioned that all the used ones I see look virtually new is that I've often wondered whether there's any reason to shop anything but the cheapest example on the market at any given time, regardless of what year it was made. I've been tempted off and on by both the X-175s and the M-75s.
[EDIT] Also, shopping a specific year range might be tough, as it seems like these are really often advertised w/o a specific year.
The reason I mentioned that all the used ones I see look virtually new is that I've often wondered whether there's any reason to shop anything but the cheapest example on the market at any given time, regardless of what year it was made. I've been tempted off and on by both the X-175s and the M-75s.
[EDIT] Also, shopping a specific year range might be tough, as it seems like these are really often advertised w/o a specific year.
Walter Broes
Enlightened Member
well, if you're extremely specific about necks, and you'd want the X175, I'd say look for the earliest Newark Street ones if you like bigger necks - I haven't really seen any difference in "quality", so I'd say look for the cheapest one?
It seems the earlier ones were specced as a narrower nut width if I recall correctly. It kept me away until they changed the spec to 1-11/16". Although the Cordoba Corona guitars I owned had a fuller wider neck than the Newark Streets, even the later version.
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In my observation there has been a dramatic decline in QC issues. I was on the verge of writing a piece on all the problems I'd seen with NS Guilds when the Guild QC manager showed up on Facebook explaining that they were now doing QC on all Newark St. guitars whereas previously they had left it up to the stores (or something to that effect). I held off and I'm glad I did because instead of saying something negative I can now say that they did something positive to fix a problem.
Now if they would just suck it up and fix the LB1 pickups...
Now if they would just suck it up and fix the LB1 pickups...
Guildadelphia
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I have a pre-Cordoba X175B. Judging by the serial number it's a 2011? made by SPG. It has the narrower nut width and what feels like a medium mild U shape neck profile.
The only flaw on the guitar was that the nut ends were not flush with the neck binding on both sides (the nut was a bit short on each end).
I trip to the luthier and a fix with some bone dust, super glue and buffing the nut ends are perfectly flush with binding and it's undetectable.
The only flaw on the guitar was that the nut ends were not flush with the neck binding on both sides (the nut was a bit short on each end).
I trip to the luthier and a fix with some bone dust, super glue and buffing the nut ends are perfectly flush with binding and it's undetectable.
dbirchett
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Neither. Initially all of them were produced at SPG guitars which is not and has never been Samick. Samick used to make guitars in South Korea. They then moved to Indonesia. Some former Samick workers got together and formed SPG guitars and bought the old Samick factory. They also made some higher end guitars for Samick just like then now do for Guild, Gretsch, D'Angelico, etc. Cort has never made Guild guitars, but I believe that they made the more expensive DeArmonds.
See this old thread. Where are teh Newark Street models made? I believe that the information is still accurate but some cheaper guitars (SF1) are made in Indonesia. Not sure which company. Could be Samick I suppose. There could be a couple of solid bodies that are made in China as well. I don't recall.
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Perfect. Yeah it’s baffling to me since I can easily see ways like that to spin a solution.
SFIV1967
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Not yet. The Newark St. line was introduced in January 2013 at NAMM in Anaheim.
My latest info (my own research only) where the Newark St. models are manufactured is in the link below, and no, Samick in Korea or Cor-Tek (Cort) were never one of them. (Cor-Tek was the factory for the late 90ies DeArmond by Guild guitar models with the KC serial numbers.)
Where are NS Guilds made?
This may have been covered previously, but in case it has not: https://samick.fandom.com/wiki/SPG_Musical_Instruments_Co.
letstalkguild.com
Ralf
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Thanks guys! I would've guessed they came our around 2011 or so, but that goes to show how good my memory is. Good to know that the factory has never changed in the course of any one particular model. That does make it interesting that the neck specs seem to have changed a bit at some point.
I do feel like maybe the finish colors have shifted a bit. Seems like there are some M-75s out there with very dark backs, to the point that you can barely see the skunk stripe in the neck and others that are much lighter and I feel like the very first X-175Bs that we saw were super orange and maybe not quite so extreme these days?
What about hardware? @Walter Broes mentioned getting two bridge tops with his early 175, but have there been any changes in pots/switches/tuners/bridges/etc? I thought I remembered some complaints about the ABR-1s being sloppy/chintzy copies in the early days.
I do feel like maybe the finish colors have shifted a bit. Seems like there are some M-75s out there with very dark backs, to the point that you can barely see the skunk stripe in the neck and others that are much lighter and I feel like the very first X-175Bs that we saw were super orange and maybe not quite so extreme these days?
What about hardware? @Walter Broes mentioned getting two bridge tops with his early 175, but have there been any changes in pots/switches/tuners/bridges/etc? I thought I remembered some complaints about the ABR-1s being sloppy/chintzy copies in the early days.
GGJaguar
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I would be careful about any factory seconds or refurbs unless you can inspect them in person. The pickup toggle switch on all my NS guitars were a little loose. It didn't affect performance, but I did not like the way they felt and would have swapped them for better quality units had I kept the guitars. Pots were all fine, so no problems there. I left the ABR on my NS SF-IV and CE-100D, but changed to a Bigsby bridge on the NS SF-III and a rosewood bridge on the NS M-75.
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Loose toggles is a common complaint I've seen on all NS Guilds.
Having owned so many Westerly Guilds, I don't think the hardware on any NS Guild compares to the Gotoh and Mueller stuff of that era. The electonics on my Korean NS Guilds have been OK. The electronics on my Indonesian NS Guild was a hot mess: https://www.gad.net/Blog/2020/05/31/guild-newark-st-starfire-sc-review/
Having owned so many Westerly Guilds, I don't think the hardware on any NS Guild compares to the Gotoh and Mueller stuff of that era. The electonics on my Korean NS Guilds have been OK. The electronics on my Indonesian NS Guild was a hot mess: https://www.gad.net/Blog/2020/05/31/guild-newark-st-starfire-sc-review/
Loose like the ring unscrews itself constantly, no matter how hard you try to tighten it? I've had a guitar or two like that -- seems like it's usually b/c the hole for the toggle switch was drilled a little too big.
SFIV1967
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Haha, you caught me! I didn't really pay attention to the S-100 talk.
GGJaguar
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In the middle position, the toggle just flops around.
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There were some "teething problems" in finishing the early models. There were credible to me rumors that the early black and gold finishes started out as sunbursts and the factory's lack of experience in 'bursts was obvious so they were resprayed and covered up.