Finally: My Thunder 1 RVT

coastie99

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Saga starts here..............

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4431&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=0

Since my last post on the subject, I've finally got the materials to finish the amp. off, but not before being burned by Ampwares along the way.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5628

Decided that applying the tolex would be a bit of a daunting task, probably resulting in a result that I'd be unhappy with.
Took it to a local upholsterer who said that he could do the biz, and left it in his hands.
Got it back a couple of days ago...............

IMG_0998.jpg

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Unfortunately, the guy has done it a little differently !

As you can see, he hasn't followed the cabinet geography around the amp. slot.
He's simply stretched the tolex across the front, rather than following the cabinet contour.

Now, I wish that he'd managed to seriously shag something up, then I'd have every reason to tear it apart and start again.

But, it presents me with one of those yes / no, yes / no; it's OK / no it isn't OK dilemmas !
For the moment, I'm living with it. I've come to like the stitching - adds a "custom" effect.
But the jury's definitely out on the fascia issue !

Oh ! And the handle's definitely for aesthetic-purposes only !
 

matsickma

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Hey Coastie,

The little Guild looks pretty nice. Custom for sure and the light color tolex is an improvement over the black color.
My vote is to leave it as is.

How have the working part of the amp held up with the travel?

I suspect capn's refurb of the amp resulted in a sweet sounding amp.

Do you dig the speaker driven reverb effect? I always like sitting directly in front of a T1RVT to get the cool wet/dry speaker "stereo" effect.

M
 

john_kidder

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It's kind of attractive in an odd way, Coastie. Obviously carefully done - the stretch across the wings is odd, but the stiching sort of makes up for it - might have been better if he'd followed the Capn's practice and knocked the ears right off. But it's well done, unusual, and sure to be a conversation piece. I don't think the white chicken knobs are original, are they? Mike? I'd probably get rid of them, just for cosmetics. Otherwise, I'd absolutely leave it alone, if it works.

I'm with Mike - the tone and the reverb on these (my Thunderbird's the same architecture) are wonderful. I intend to get an amp like yours when I can - the Thunderbird is heavy and takes up a lot of room, and it's a pain for an old fart with a small car.

Surely, though, it's got to have a handle that works - what's the problem? Anyone who's got the gear and the skill to do that stitching must be able to attach a handle?

And what's the real stuff - how does it sound??
 

coastie99

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Thanks guys for the encouraging comments.

Since my mind's still not made up about the re-cover, I haven't wired it up yet, so cannot offer an aural opinion. Need to make a decision soon though 'cos I'm getting pretty eager to hear this in operation. I bought it with the intention of using it primarily as an acoustic amplifier, so I'm not too sure about the Greenback. On the other hand, the Greenback would be my first choice for electric.

I've fully re-valved it; had a good score on a heap of NOS Mullard and Telefunken ECL86's.

No, knobs aren't original. I wanted "Oxblood" knobs for it, but the only place I could find them on offer was the afore-mentioned Ampwares.

I fitted the handle and the amp. is unlikely ever to leave the house, so no big hassle to carry it. I have a horror vision of me going to hoist the amp. off the ground, and the amp. remaining in situ ! Me with the handle and piece of compressed cornflakes in my hand !
 

matsickma

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I am not sure I understand the problem with the handle. It looks like a typical Ampeg "bone" style. Yes? If true is true and bolts, not screws, were used to secure it then that would be an improvement over the origional "black" handle of the T1RVT of that era. The origional 1965 T1RVT handle is similar to that used on Maestro Echoplexes (I think)and I think old small Silvertone amps. The handle is plastic without any metal reinforcing rod contained within the plastic. I installed a JBL K120 in my black T1RVT and I am in constant fear that the handle will give out under the additional load.

M
 

gilded

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Coastie,

As you may remember, I have a similar model T1 RVT. I share your concern about the strength of the particle board.

Let's see, is this dog bone handle attached by wood screws directly to the particle board?

If so, here's my alternate suggestion: use machine screws & nuts with the widest metal washers you can fit on the under side of the particle board top. I think that may help spread out the load a bit.

If you did this, I guess there might be an issue with the chassis be able to clear the ends of the machine screws (during removal from the cab), or the nuts and washers vibrating loose and dropping onto the innards and causing a cataclysmic event (you know, arcing, smoke, kaboom!), but, hey, nothing's perfect!

Good luck!
 

matsickma

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Oh. I see what you are concerned about. Well your in-luck with regards to the particle board issue. The T1 series of amps do not use particle board for the cabinet. The T1's uses a grooved pine cabinet. It is not built like it kitchey Thunderbird big brother . The T1's only use particle board on the front baffel board and the two rear panels. I think capn installed a new baffel board out of plywood. So if 4-bolts are used on the handle you will be in good shape.

M
 

Walter Broes

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I think it looks great - sure, an "amp guy" would have done it differently, but I'm sure it'll grow on you.

Is that whole cab particleboard? In that case, if the current covering bothers you to the extent that you'd want to re-do it, I'd go for a whole new cab, in solid wood, with a plywood speaker baffle.

I realise that might seem like a snobby "corksniffer" comment, but in my own experience, the sound difference between particleboard and solid wood for an amp cabinet is not subtle - the wood sounding a lot better.
 

coastie99

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The entire cabinet of my T1 is particle board. Cap'n Juan replaced the baffle board, and I've replaced the flimsy, ply rear.

When the amp. arrived "kabonged" I considered an entire new cabinet, thinking that not only would it be stronger than the original "cornflake" board, but would probably offer some aural superiority. I got lazy (and cheap) and repaired the damage.

Yes; I"d thought of fabricating a metal plate to fit on the inside of the cabinet, under the handle, in order to spread the load. I should add, I only fitted a handle in the first place to "break up" the top expanse of Blonde, and provide a colour contrast.
In addition to the clear breakages that the amp suffered in transit, there were a couple of rough cracks that I didn't open up to glue, fearful that applying too much pressure at those points would result in further breakage. Consequently, there are a couple of potential weak spots in the cabinet. Since, as I've said, the amp. will be going nowhere else, I can live with the (very) slight inconvenience of having to move it bodily. And in any event, I've fitted Fender "glides" on the bottom.
 

coastie99

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Well, finally wired 'er up and fired 'er up. I'll live with the tolex job.

And, in spite of the kabong-ing, she works !

But, in a very subdued fashion.

Here's Capn's comment............

"One of the last repair items was a broken (2meg) bass pot. These are no longer commercially available; I replaced it with a 500K pot and because one of the two capacitors that are tied directly to it shredded in my hand, I replaced one of the two tone pot caps, possibly with the wrong value, but I don't think so............................................. It's possible that the 500K pot doesn't offer enough resistance, thus permitting volume/gain to be shunted to ground. If this is true, putting a 1meg resistor between the ground leg of the pot and ground, will prevent volume/gain from being sent to ground".

What do I know ? I'm just thrilled that the amp still functions after it's kabong-ing !

Pretty soon, I'll take it over the hill to the amp. doctor.

IMG_1022.jpg


IMG_1026.jpg
 

Guildmark

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Looks great, coastie! I'm sure the sound is fine, too.
I'm now considering recovering all my amps that way so I can land more wedding gigs.
 

capnjuan

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Hi Coastie; if you can hold off taking the T1 to your nephew's for a couple of weeks, I found a 1.5 meg / audio taper pot on eBay this morning. It'll take a week or so to get here and another week to get there. Although I think an added resistor to ground would do it, it also might give you a weird response; volume of '7' with switch in the '3' position. In any event, as long as it's going, maybe you can wait for the pot; take out old / put new means de-soldering and resoldering three connections. With the pull/replace chassis, might take 1.5 hours and you'll know right away whether it works correctly.

Also, you might want to consider sticking with the screws for the handle. If you bolt it or use a backing plate on the underside of the top, you run the risk of interference when taking the chassis in and out. There isn't much clearance between the top edge of front chassis plate and the bottom of the top; whatever that distance is is all there is to work with. I thought the 'grab' by the screws felt okay; if there isn't enough clearance underneath, you might think about drilling out the holes in the handle hardware and using a slightly larger screw with deeper threads. cj
 

coastie99

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capnjuan said:
Hi Coastie; if you can hold off taking the T1 to your nephew's for a couple of weeks, I found a 1.5 meg / audio taper pot on eBay this morning. It'll take a week or so to get here and another week to get there. Although I think an added resistor to ground would do it, it also might give you a weird response; volume of '7' with switch in the '3' position. In any event, as long as it's going, maybe you can wait for the pot; take out old / put new means de-soldering and resoldering three connections. With the pull/replace chassis, might take 1.5 hours and you'll know right away whether it works correctly.

Also, you might want to consider sticking with the screws for the handle. If you bolt it or use a backing plate on the underside of the top, you run the risk of interference when taking the chassis in and out. There isn't much clearance between the top edge of front chassis plate and the bottom of the top; whatever that distance is is all there is to work with. I thought the 'grab' by the screws felt okay; if there isn't enough clearance underneath, you might think about drilling out the holes in the handle hardware and using a slightly larger screw with deeper threads. cj

Seems like a sound scheme to me John !

I'm never in a hurry to go to the City anyway.

Let me know the cost please.
 

capnjuan

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coastie99 said:
... Let me know the cost please...
First things first; we gets it running like it supposed to ... :wink:
 

capnjuan

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Hi Default; I looked there but they only have linear taper 2meg pots; audio taper pots limited to 1meg. cj
 

Default

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POT - 2 MEG AUDIOTAPER, 1/4" SHAFT

NOS 2M audio taper, no switch, threaded bushing with nut, short 1/4" shaft.
R-V2M1
2007 Catalog
page 55

Push on knobs are what coastie has?
 
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