I am going to look into a replacement bridge. The only other question is that somebody drilled a hold in the lower bout, below where the strap pin goes, for a pickup jack I'm guessing. I'm going to install a K&K anyway, but this hole is literally into the side wood, ugh. I'd prefer the hole through the endpin because there's a block there for stability. So, should I drill out the endpin jack for the pickup and patch the other hole, or just use the hole as is? I think I can find somebody decent to patch the other hole. I worry about cracks putting a pickup endpin directly into bare wood with no reinforcement.
Just got a F30, need bridge advice
- Thread starter cschaub
- Start date
adorshki
Reverential Member
"Yes".
:smile:
Kidding aside, patch the hole and use the endblock for exactly the correct reasons you suspect.
In hollow-body electrics there's a plate inside to stabilize the jack and prevent cracking, and Guild even went so far as to put a mounting block on the side/inside when they installed strap pegs on the side of the upper bout in New Hartford.
(They didn't put 'em on the side prior to that, although some of the cutaway electrics had 'em right next to the neckheel and those probably got stabilizing blocks, too.)
And I hate to judge a guy without hearing his side of the story but I think your luthier did you a disservice with both the concept and quality of that glue job when it was at the end of the saddle slot like that.
Maybe I'm too cautious but I think he should have known better.
The sloppy glue extrusion left on the bridge and the still-open gap at the slot as Swiveltung mentioned seem to confirm my suspicions, though.
I just realized I did assume the work was finished since it's described as "post repair", if it's not actually finished then I withdraw that part of my comment, at least.
That kind of work might be acceptable on a run-of-the-mill "cheap" import which don't have a lot of intrinsic value but a vintage Guild is in a class above that, in quality of build and materials even before reputation is considered.
Maybe he doesn't realize that?
But it's tantamount to re-painting a vintage Mustang or Camaro in your garage with a spray can and thinking it'll pass muster with serious buyers.
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I was faced with the same situation with my '69 F-212. I went back and forth, drill a new hole thru the end pin block and patch the existing hole, or use the hole that was there? I opted to use the existing hole, but I made a small, reinforcing wood block to add some more structure to the side wood. I cut the proper curve, drilled out a hole in the center then clamped and glued that in place. It's been fine for years now. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer, both options have positives and negatives. All my other electric/acoustic guitars have the hole thru the end pin block, which I much prefer. If I had it to do over, I'd probably patch the hole and go thru the end pin block. Particularly since the hole is not in a very visible spot.
adorshki
Reverential Member
Y'nkow, you raised a point I didn't think of yesterday, that patching the existing hole also presents its own set of difficulties (thinking placement of the disc and all the fine shaping required, plus the difficulty of getting a good aesthetic result as in matching the side's curve, then touching up for finish color and patching the NCL)
And then: "Why make yet another hole?"
Now I think installing your own re-inforcement plate/block is actually a more elegant solution.
After all you're going to have to go in from the soundhole to get a patch lined up perfectly, too. You'll need to able to manipulate it from both sides to get it perfectly flush with the side's outside surface, right?
Or else sand down the plug after gluing which increases the cosmetic touch-up overhead.
The impact on "tone" would be minimal for a plate glued to a side, just make sure it's not touching the top which would affect tone a lot more.
And thinking: try to match width of sides as closely as possible and make it longer than it is wide to distribute the stress over as much area as is practical within the constraints of the plate curvature.
Cshaub your instincts are good, go with what you think is best now that you've got a couple more details to consider.
:friendly_wink:
Guildedagain
Enlightened Member
As long as you don't step on the cord too hard, the side hole would be ok, and if already there, tempting.
But I've seen lots of destroyed input jacks on many guitars, early SG's were the worst. Gibson went to a side jack in the 80's, but it never looked right.
This was the reason behind the Strat's clever input jack.
But I've seen lots of destroyed input jacks on many guitars, early SG's were the worst. Gibson went to a side jack in the 80's, but it never looked right.
This was the reason behind the Strat's clever input jack.