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Thread: Best Westerly Decade for Starfire IV's?

  1. #1

    Best Westerly Decade for Starfire IV's?

    I'm looking on Reverb for 60's-90's Starfire IV's and wondering if there is any difference in build quality, oversight, etc...among one decade to the next, especially from the time Fender stepped in during the....90's (?) In other words, would anyone definitely opt for one era over another, or is the difference minimal. Thank you for any insight.

    Tom

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Default's Avatar
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    Quality, no.
    What matters is the shape of the neck, the pickups used and such. There was never a Norlin or CBS period to Guild.
    "Steve, you are a man of many goats."~ capnjuan

    "Alternatively, you could just go the ultra-relic route with it. Basically go for a look that says the amp was on fire and they put it out using belt sanders."
    (amps - I need a "99" & "50")

  3. #3
    The biggest difference is between the Hoboken Starfires of the ‘60 and the late Westerly Starfires. (I don’t have personal experience with the 70s Westerly Starfire’s, so I won’t comment on them; leave that for others.)
    The 60s ‘Fires have a lighter, woodier sound and feel, with much skinnier (hurrah!) necks (for the most part. There are always variations with Guild.) The later versions are heavier, with more of a pickup focus like a solid body. A big part is the beefier construction and the switch from a harp tailpiece to a stop tailpiece.

    Its all a matter of which you prefer.
    Chris

    ‘
    56 A-50, '57 CE-100, ‘58 A-350, '60 X-150, ‘60 SF II, '61 M-20, '62 F-20, '64 S-50 Jetstar, '64 Mark II, '65 SFIV, '71 S-90, '75 F-112, '75 Mark IVp, '81 M-80, '82 S-275, ‘87 Nightbird I, '88 Detonator, ‘92 F-15ce, '93 X-500, '97 Bluesbird, '99 F-30, ‘14 NS Aristocrat, '16 NS T-bird
    '54 Masteramp, '60 99j, '63 200-S, '66 T-bass, ‘66 Thunder T1-12, '69 T-star, ‘93 Sequoia,
    ‘68 Bari Uke

    http://acornhouseworkshop.com/
    '08 Parlor, '10 Butternut Deuce, '13 Rounder, '14 Kulakeiki

  4. #4
    All Westerly Guilds are good guitars. As Default says, the neck shape is important and changes based on the era. Note also that the depth of the body changes, too.

    Lots of info here: gads-guilds

    I tend to much favor Guilds from the mid-90s to the early 00s, even though the early 00s were Corona-made. The only downside of the Coronas is the pickups. This is all just based on feel and personal preferences. I *love* the early '70s Starfires but the necks tend to be tiny so I don't own any.
    1970s: [ S70 | S300ADs ]
    1980s: [ X79-3 | X80s | X82 | X100 | X175 | S281 | BHM1 ]
    1980s: [ Detonator | Liberator + Elite | SF4 | AA ]
    1990s: [ S100 | X160 | X170 | X170T | SF3,5 | BB | NB | NB DX ]
    1990s: [ X2000 | X3000 | X4000s | DV72 | BHM1 | JF30-12 | Songbird ]
    2000s: [ SF3 | SF4 | B-90 | BB-90 | X160R | X500T | D55 ]
    2010s:
    [ Jetstar | R30 | D55 ]

    My Reviews: [ GADsGuilds.com ] Guild Documents: [ Catalogs ] [ Price Lists ] [ Ads, Flyers, etc. ]

  5. #5
    Personally, I like the late Westerly guitars the best. 1998-2001 or so.
    Dave

    Guilds: 2003 S-7CE - 2013 DD-6RCE - 2018 F55e


    http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default ... ID=1018446

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by dapmdave View Post
    Personally, I like the late Westerly guitars the best. 1998-2001 or so.

    That is good to hear. Thank you. This is what I am seeing on Reverb more than anything else. And thank you everyone else for your insight.

    Tom

  7. #7
    late 70s-80s, if u can find one...snag it!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by GAD View Post
    All Westerly Guilds are good guitars. As Default says, the neck shape is important and changes based on the era. Note also that the depth of the body changes, too.

    Lots of info here: gads-guilds

    I tend to much favor Guilds from the mid-90s to the early 00s, even though the early 00s were Corona-made. The only downside of the Coronas is the pickups. This is all just based on feel and personal preferences. I *love* the early '70s Starfires but the necks tend to be tiny so I don't own any.
    I'm looking at what I'm assuming is a 2000, but haven't found a serial # to date PDF yet: SN: AG001683. The stamp reads Westerly, but all SN charts I am looking at stop at '99. I'm not interested in a Corona manufacture.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    If I recall the early 80's SF4 is still thin but comes without a pickguard which looks pretty cool with the hardtail stop.
    Some have HB1 and some have black open bobbin XR pups.

    I like every era. I mentioned this variant cause I never held or played one and don't think this version was around to long.

    M

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by tomvwash View Post
    I'm looking at what I'm assuming is a 2000, but haven't found a serial # to date PDF yet: SN: AG001683. The stamp reads Westerly, but all SN charts I am looking at stop at '99. I'm not interested in a Corona manufacture.
    The very late Westerly period is pretty much not on the serial number charts. The only way to check the date (and location) is to contact Hans Moust through his website (if he doesn’t answer here), guitarchives.nl
    Chris

    ‘
    56 A-50, '57 CE-100, ‘58 A-350, '60 X-150, ‘60 SF II, '61 M-20, '62 F-20, '64 S-50 Jetstar, '64 Mark II, '65 SFIV, '71 S-90, '75 F-112, '75 Mark IVp, '81 M-80, '82 S-275, ‘87 Nightbird I, '88 Detonator, ‘92 F-15ce, '93 X-500, '97 Bluesbird, '99 F-30, ‘14 NS Aristocrat, '16 NS T-bird
    '54 Masteramp, '60 99j, '63 200-S, '66 T-bass, ‘66 Thunder T1-12, '69 T-star, ‘93 Sequoia,
    ‘68 Bari Uke

    http://acornhouseworkshop.com/
    '08 Parlor, '10 Butternut Deuce, '13 Rounder, '14 Kulakeiki

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