Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25

Thread: Roller Bridge

  1. #11
    Will these fit the original B2 bridge?
    https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/s...l-epiphone-sg/


    And is it normal that the stock tune o matic bridge moves a little back n forward when using the term/bigsby?

  2. #12
    It's ok for it to move back and forward and will help it stay in tune. Personally I think roller bridges are unnecessary but opinions vary. Do you have a tuning problem?

  3. #13
    I use Big Bend's Nut Sauce to keep in tune, and white lithium grease on the saddles. Don't have a problem. If I do, it's time to change strings. I relube every other string change. No tuning issues on my NS StarfireV.

  4. #14
    Oh! I've also found my guild is sensitive to strings. Some don't stay in tune. Others do. I've had good luck with Elixir optiweb.

  5. #15
    I replied on your post in the other topic.

    I got tuning problems yes. I got new strings and the intonation is perfect now. When I tune the guitar and then use the bigsby it gets out of tune...

    I use Ernie ball regular slinky .10 for years now and they suit me the best. I've used elixir and their great but got some other problems with them.

  6. #16
    I've never found a roller bridge with low enough friction to work the way we might hope. If they work at all it's because the surface the string needs to slide over is smooth rather than having a sharp edge. Personally, with Bigsbies, I've had the most luck with "rocker" bridges like the ones Bigsby made (makes.) The strings don't need to slide across the saddle; the saddles move with the strings. I've found the same thing works on other instruments with regular pointy bridges that can move a little, provided you're not trying to pull off Jimi Hendrix style dive-bombs.

    But listen up, here's the secret: if the guitar does go out of tune with a typical tune-o-matic style bridge, just wiggle the arm (perhaps violently) and it will often go back into tune.
    DTC

    1958 T-100, 1964 S-50, 1964 M-65, 1976 S-300 (bolt-on neck), 1977 D-25, 1977 S-300, 1979 S-300A, 1983 S-25, 1984 Detonator, 1987 Nightbird (spruce top), 1988 D-15, 2001 Blues90, 2002 Bluesbird P90, 2014 Aristocrat

  7. #17
    Making sure the nut slots are wide & smooth enough, plus using a small amount of lubricant in both the nut & bridge saddle slots (I like StewMac's Guitar Grease), oughta make most vibrato systems behave correctly. I also like the rocking aluminum Bigsby bridges with hollowbody guitars.

    -Dave-
    1962 F-20 Troubadour
    1970 M-75 Bluesbird
    1971 S-100 "Black Cherry"
    1973 S-100 "Nature Boy"
    1990 Nightbird Custom
    1999 X-170T
    2013 NS M-75 Aristocrat
    2016 NS S-200 T-bird

    c. 1971 Foxey Lady

  8. #18
    I honestly didn’t realize it was the same OP. Lol. It felt like I was repeating myself. This explains why. :)

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Quantum Strummer View Post
    Making sure the nut slots are wide & smooth enough, plus using a small amount of lubricant in both the nut & bridge saddle slots (I like StewMac's Guitar Grease), oughta make most vibrato systems behave correctly. I also like the rocking aluminum Bigsby bridges with hollowbody guitars.

    -Dave-
    All of this

  10. #20
    Ok tnx. I will order some bends grease here in the Netherlands. The saddles are.on their way.. I ordered them to try.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •