Thinking of buying this G-312... Can anyone give me some information on that model?

stormin1155

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I've been gassing for a Guild 12-string for a long time. I just sold a little Gibson LG-0, so now I have some money burning a hole in my pocket. Ran across this G-312 on ebay for what seems like a good price, but I'm not familiar with that model, and can't find a whole lot of information on the web. So do any of you have experience with this model you can share?

Here's the link to the ebay listing... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Gu...914570?hash=item23c13de5ca:g:I8UAAOSwU~Bc4h0v

Specifically, what is the neck width/profile? I don't like real skinny necks or huge baseball bat ones. 1-7/8" would be ideal with a shallow-moderate C profile. I have a Yamaha FG-512, nut width 1-7/8", depth at first fret 31/32" (.968) with a soft D profile, and it feels big and bulky. I have an electric 12-string with a 1-7/8" nut and first fret depth of 25/32" (.781) with a C profile that feels perfect.

According to the listing, it is in need of a neck reset. Not a problem... I'm a tech/luthier. But does the 312 have a full dovetail joint, or is it a mortise/tenon like the 212? I just reset a 212 a couple of weeks ago, and a mortise/tenon is a breeze to reset compared to a full dovetail.

Would love it if you would share any information, experience, or opinions on this model you may have. Thanks!
 
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mavuser

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I own a G-312 and it is a fantastic sounding and playing 12-string. the nut on mine is 1+13.5/16”

i’d call the neck carve between a C and a D. playable for sure, this guitar is a gem.
 

12 string

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1 13/16" at the nut on mine. Expect a dovetail. There are a lot of G-312 owners here, we love those guitars. 1978 seems to have been a very good year for some of us!

' Strang
 

adorshki

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According to the listing, it is in need of a neck reset. Not a problem... I'm a tech/luthier. But does the 312 have a full dovetail joint, or is it a mortise/tenon like the 212? I just reset a 212 a couple of weeks ago, and a mortise/tenon is a breeze to reset compared to a full dovetail.
Hi stormin, I thought all Westerly USA 12's (and all their flattops in general) had full dovetails, I never heard of a mortise and tenon joint on a Guild until the new Oxnard facility started production in 2015 (or was it '16?)
Also, when you say "212", there was an F212 which was a 16" lower bout 'hog F-body and a G212 which was the dreadnought 'hog body counterpart to the G312.
In either case they should have full dovetails unless I've missed something for all these years.
Our member Chris Cozad has done some great photo-essays on those necks, an F212 and F412 are covered in these links:
https://www.cozadguitars.com/articles/article-1975-guild-f-212-overhaul.html
https://www.cozadguitars.com/articles/article-1980-guild-f-412-overhaul.html
It just occurred to me:
Is it possible you're thinking of a GAD-G212, an MIC instrument from the 20xx era?
Those are known to have a different construction that the US-builts, the truss adjusting nuts aren't even on the same end of the neck, they're accessed through the soundhole, so that may explain what you're describing.
Never seen input about resetting the neck of one of those.
BTW assuming the Guild s/n chart is accurate, they show that G312 you linked as an '80, for which the last s/n produced in that year was DJ100164:
http://guildguitars.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/history_of_your_guild.pdf

Anyway, re the guitar itself, I think you'll be "real happy" with it, especially after seeing some of Chris's tips on dealing with Guild neck resets which do have a not-entirely-undeserved reputation for being difficult to work with.
 
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mavuser

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pulled mine out yesterday, the neck is more of a C than a D. it is more rounded, than an F-412 ive had, which was super flat. mine is 1980
 

stormin1155

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Thanks to all for your responses. I pulled the trigger on it, so now anxiously counting down the days until it arrives.

Adorshki, thanks for the information. The guitar was a Westerly G312. I don't recall the year, but I'm thinking late '70s. I wish I would have taken a picture of it. I was quite surprised to see the mortise/tenon, as I also thought that all Westerly guitars had dovetails.
 

adorshki

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Thanks to all for your responses. I pulled the trigger on it, so now anxiously counting down the days until it arrives.

Adorshki, thanks for the information. The guitar was a Westerly G312. I don't recall the year, but I'm thinking late '70s. I wish I would have taken a picture of it. I was quite surprised to see the mortise/tenon, as I also thought that all Westerly guitars had dovetails.
(I'm assuming that was a typo and you meant G212 as originally mentioned)
I'd be willing to bet there was "more to that story", as in an actual replaced neck before you saw it, but if anybody might have an insight it'd be our guru Hans Moust.
I hate to bug him with questions about guitars I don't own, but "that one seems worth asking":
"Hans?"
Have you ever seen a mortise and tenon neck joint in a Westerly built guitar?

The more I think about it, the more I think, "WTH", it could very well be.
I keep finding out stuff "I thought I knew" had exceptions.
:glee:

OH yeah, "hopefully": congrats!
And if you do wind up doing the reset, let us know what you find?
(We eat up pics of that stuff, too!)
:friendly_wink:
 
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mavuser

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Stormin- nice! congrats and enjoy the incoming three-twelvery!
 

stormin1155

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Yes, I did mean G212. There was no indication that there had been previous work done on the neck.
 

adorshki

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Yes, I did mean G212. There was no indication that there had been previous work done on the neck.

Yeah, and it occurred to me while I was composing that last post I'd expect a luthier (like you) to be able to make that assessment.
Especially since if it was a "modification" or new neck with what I assume would be a tenon heel, it'd have to have had the heelblock modified in some way.
At the very least a plug in the dovetail socket, routed out again to fit the tenon, and likely other stuff I don't even know about.
And it seems like if a replacement heelblock was installed then that would also show telltale signs of the back and top having been off, and at that point it seems like somebody footing that bill would have been very unlikely in any case...just thinking "out loud", but if I'm making incorrect assumptions, feedback's appreciated.
:friendly_wink:
One other question:
Why was the mortise and tenon easier than the full dovetail?
One would think it'd be that much harder to introduce enough steam to break the glue loose?
 

stormin1155

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It came apart easy and clean. A dovetail and M/T joint each have about the same glued surface area, but a M/T usually has a much smaller area to get your steam needle into. I had to make a couple of holes before I hit it... What makes it easier is that you don't have to rebuild the dovetail, just shave the heel to get the correct neck angle.
 

adorshki

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It came apart easy and clean. A dovetail and M/T joint each have about the same glued surface area, but a M/T usually has a much smaller area to get your steam needle into. I had to make a couple of holes before I hit it... What makes it easier is that you don't have to rebuild the dovetail, just shave the heel to get the correct neck angle.
"Copy", thanks!
 

portsider

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Man, I wish I had the skills to do a neck reset. I'm impressed.
That should be a wonderful axe!
 

stormin1155

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Man, I wish I had the skills to do a neck reset. I'm impressed.
That should be a wonderful axe!

Thanks! I didn't have the skills until I did a few. It took me doing quite a few beaters and cheapies before I had the confidence to do a nice Martin or Gibson. I still learn something new every time I do one. That's what makes it fun!
 
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