Bigsby for M75

dbirchett

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If you have one with Gold Parts, then this is what you want: https://shop.guildguitars.com/product/vibrato-tailpiece-semi-hollowbody-newark-st-models-starfire-vi-gold/?v=7516fd43adaa

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Yes, but the shallow neck set requires a tension bar. It's a laminated top, you won't hurt anything.
 

Walter Broes

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That one is for semi-hollowbodies. The M-75 is full hollowbody.
What or who says that's for semi-hollowbodies? Guild has made M-75's in the very early 60's that came from the factory with a Bigsby, just like the one DBirchett has posted above. The break angle on your guitar's bridge in that picture is too shallow to really work - for most people, including myself, anyway.
 

miasmo

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What or who says that's for semi-hollowbodies? Guild has made M-75's in the very early 60's that came from the factory with a Bigsby, just like the one DBirchett has posted above. The break angle on your guitar's bridge in that picture is too shallow to really work - for most people, including myself, anyway.

From DBirchett's link: "Replacement Guild Vibrato Tailpiece for semi hollowbody Newark St. models."
 

Walter Broes

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Oh, that. well, it's the correct one for M75's too. I think a couple of people have been telling you that on this thread for five pages now. The M75 is actually the first model that had that Bigsby mounted from the factory, even before Guild had semi hollowbody guitars out. I have a buddy here in town who owns one.
 

miasmo

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Oh, that. well, it's the correct one for M75's too. I think a couple of people have been telling you that on this thread for five pages now. The M75 is actually the first model that had that Bigsby mounted from the factory, even before Guild had semi hollowbody guitars out. I have a buddy here in town who owns one.

Just reread all the replies. It is a little bit easier to follow the plot that way than reading them one at a time as they are posted. Dbirchett had advised in an earlier reply that the B-7 version of the Guildsby break angle would be too much and the B-3 break angle too little. I figured since I like higher action than most players, maybe the B-3 would work for me. Also, putting a screw in the top of a hollowbody makes me squeamish. I recorded a video playing it with the B-3 unamplified. I'll post it as soon as I can figure out how to get it uploaded to youtube.
 

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I suppose if it were an original $4k Aristocrat, I wouldn't want to put a hole in the top, but these are affordable and plentiful...
 
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dbirchett

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The B3 may work for you if you have a really light attack on the guitar. Or it may not. It is iffy. Some people get by with them just fine. On the other hand, the rule of thumb as I understand it is that if you have a floating bridge, you probably don't need a tension bar. If you don't have a floating bridge, you do. I think that when Guild put on a Bigsby at the factory on an Aristocrat it was a B7 style. I would be nervous screwing a Bigsby into the top of an Aristocrat but I think that is the right one for the task. YMMV.
 

miasmo

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The B3 may work for you if you have a really light attack on the guitar. Or it may not. It is iffy. Some people get by with them just fine. On the other hand, the rule of thumb as I understand it is that if you have a floating bridge, you probably don't need a tension bar. If you don't have a floating bridge, you do. I think that when Guild put on a Bigsby at the factory on an Aristocrat it was a B7 style. I would be nervous screwing a Bigsby into the top of an Aristocrat but I think that is the right one for the task. YMMV.

I appreciate your advice. I guess I'm going to keep playing it with the B-3 and see how it works out. I'm going to stick with my makeshift washer solution on the end pin for now in case there are any issues and it seems like a B7 style is necessary. I don't want to re-drill the holes there twice.
 

adorshki

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I appreciate your advice. I guess I'm going to keep playing it with the B-3 and see how it works out. I'm going to stick with my makeshift washer solution on the end pin for now in case there are any issues and it seems like a B7 style is necessary. I don't want to re-drill the holes there twice.
Can't fault that logic (both premises).
:friendly_wink:
 

parker_knoll

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My Duane Eddy has a low break angle, in fact I would say so does my Starfire, but it's always been enough. The only thing is, it can sound a bit "light" with a low break angle, light meaning plinky and lacking body, and of course the other thing is strings popping out, but not so likely with a tune-o-matic.
 
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