Are all D15s Hogs?

Maloburro

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Thank you everyone for the pics and knowledge.

I'm not sure if it's ok to mention fleabay or the fact that they have copyrighted logos. I know it's considered a sin on other forums. That or Etsy are the only places I have found for a thin vinyl graphic.

I completely understand how bad it is to pass of non brand stuff as genuine, especially with Fenders or Gibsons. I know it's superficial since the serial and paper tag are present, but my vanity would like to see the name on the headstock once again.

If I'm wrong to purchase the logo from a random vendor, please let me know. The last thing I would want to do is offend the great people here. Otherwise, I'll probably get the silver logo.

Thanks again.

PS I finally had the chance to A-B the 87 D-25 with the 91 D-15. What a tremendous difference!
 

Bonneville88

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Vinyl graphics are cheap and effective - if it gets damaged, can always buy another, as
long as it's not underneath a clear coat.
 

adorshki

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I'm not sure if it's ok to mention fleabay or the fact that they have copyrighted logos. I know it's considered a sin on other forums. That or Etsy are the only places I have found for a thin vinyl graphic.I completely understand how bad it is to pass of non brand stuff as genuine, especially with Fenders or Gibsons. I know it's superficial since the serial and paper tag are present, but my vanity would like to see the name on the headstock once again.

If I'm wrong to purchase the logo from a random vendor, please let me know. The last thing I would want to do is offend the great people here. Otherwise, I'll probably get the silver logo.
We have ranted about sellers violating the copyright and possibly enabling "counterfeiting" in the past, but a vinyl graphic is probably a different animal (see below), and copyright violation's a gray area anyway, related to country where the potential violation's occurring.
The real point though, is that in this case we know you're not trying to create a "counterfeit" but simply satisfy a personal desire to enhance the appearance of your own guitar.
I don't think anybody here faults somebody trying to rescue a poor old mistreated Guild.
Far from it, we cheer 'em on.
:smile:

Vinyl graphics are cheap and effective - if it gets damaged, can always buy another, as
long as it's not underneath a clear coat.
Um, I'm thinking it would dissolve if underneath a clear coat of lacquer.
Same reason vinyl can damage NCL: Some of the the solvents that make it soft are the same ones that are used to make Nitro Cellulose a sprayable Lacquer.
So probably don't even want to apply it over the finish, either, and why I said a vinyl graphic is probably a different animal, it's probably not suited for mounting on an NCL finished guitar:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenMaint/Vinyl/vinyl.html
As an aside I note he says: "Gibson and Guild (until the sale to Fender) used nitrocellulose"
That's misleading but excusable since he's a luthier not a Guild fanatic: Guild used poly on at least one model before the sail to Fender (FS46ce IIRC but for sure at least one of those "FS" or "DS" models) and used it for satin finishes on some models afterward (like D4's), but it was an exception and NCL was still standard on flat-tops all the way through NH.
And now you know why I suggested the gold paint stencil (assuming the headstock's going to be, or already is, NCL finished).
:friendly_wink:
PS I finally had the chance to A-B the 87 D-25 with the 91 D-15. What a tremendous difference!
What a difference a top makes, eh?
:friendly_wink:
 
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Bonneville88

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Al, pressure sensitive (adhesive backed) vinyl isn't the same thing as what
you're referring to - it's designed to adhere to all kinds of surfaces, and depending
on the adhesive on the particular vinyl being used, does exactly that, and well.
Everything from vehicles to brick. As a logo - even a temporary one - on
a guitar headstock it would work well, and as long as the coating or paint underneath
it was thoroughly dry, would adhere just fine, but also be easily removable.

Pressure sensitive graphics vinyl - again depending on the series / manufacturer / adhesive, can also
be clear-coated, albeit generally should be with a series of light coats vs one heavy coat.
 

adorshki

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Al, pressure sensitive (adhesive backed) vinyl isn't the same thing as what you're referring to - it's designed to adhere to all kinds of surfaces, and depending
on the adhesive on the particular vinyl being used, does exactly that, and well.
Since I didn't have a link to what Malo was looking at I had no way of knowing if he was looking at a "sticker" or not, but as a purveyor to printers I know exactly what you're talking about and vinyl is still vinyl:
if it's soft and flexible then it's got plasticizers/solvents in it and shouldn't be covered over with NCL.
As for adhesives, yes there're acrylic based adhesives, those would probably be safe with NCL, but they're also spec'd according to what they're intended to be mounted on and how long they're expected to remain there.
In fact most or the time the first thing spec'd for a label is the adhesive according to the label's intended application, but here's an example of a spec sheet for just one product:'
https://www.mactac.com/UserFiles/Roll_Label/Performance_Guides/VDG9511_White_Vinyl.pdf
So I didn't go looking for what Malo said he was looking at but suspect folks offering the logos wouldn't have a clue about whether or not they're safe for NCL, in any case in the absence of complete info the important thing was to make him aware of potential problems, that research is in order.
:friendly_wink:

Everything from vehicles to brick. As a logo - even a temporary one - on
a guitar headstock it would work well, and as long as the coating or paint underneath
it was thoroughly dry, would adhere just fine, but also be easily removable.
Again, depends on the specific adhesive.
Pressure sensitive graphics vinyl - again depending on the series / manufacturer / adhesive, can also
be clear-coated, albeit generally should be with a series of light coats vs one heavy coat.
In commercial printing the sealants are typically shellac or varnish or even polymer, not solvent-based.
According to what type of ink was used and intended application.
 

Maloburro

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The graphic I was referring to is listed as vinyl, it has a chrome shiny finish. I have used multiple light satin deft coats over such things before with good success. That's probably what I'll do in this case.

Thank you for the input. If it ends up ruining the vinyl I'll just take it off and try another route.
 

adorshki

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The graphic I was referring to is listed as vinyl, it has a chrome shiny finish. I have used multiple light satin deft coats over such things before with good success. That's probably what I'll do in this case.

Thank you for the input. If it ends up ruining the vinyl I'll just take it off and try another route.

"Who loves ya baby?!?"
 

Bonneville88

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Malo, the chrome vinyl should work fine and look good - if it's "mirror" or "polished" chrome, sometimes referred to as "polished silver" may actually look better without the deft on it.
Won't stick well to unsealed wood though.

-Bonneville, purveyor / designer / fabricator / installer of interior and exterior
specialty and environmental graphics and signage throughout the US for over 40 years :friendly_wink:
 

Maloburro

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Ayyy. So I’ve done what I planned to do to the finish. I can’t believe I didn’t notice the x brace was gone. It played great before i destrung it so I’m not really sure what to do. I knew had been repaired but didn’t think to look harder than I should have.
 
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