Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Have a question on fan fret .

  1. #11

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Rayk View Post

    Hello

    Except that ONLY fan-fret solution is given in "dropped D" case - instead of using thicker string.

    EDIT

    If you have two identical guitars - they use same strings and sound exactly same - If you capo one on first fret and use slightly thicker strings - can you hear the difference?

    Practical problem with this might be, that it could be very hard to find right gauges.
    Last edited by Nuuska; 04-15-2019 at 08:20 PM.
    First good guitar - GUILD Duane Eddy 400 - I was 3rd owner - still regret letting it go 25 years ago - used to have Artist Award and Starfire - no regrets here.
    Present guitars - all bought new - F50R 1975 - F512 1977 - F212CSB 1979 - OM-240CE 2018 - Schecter Startocaster
    Bought secondhand - B30SB fretless - RED Songbird - White Songbird - S-60D - D-125 - Gibson 3/4-size acoustic 1957 - Carmelo Gonzales nylon string - old Levin Lute

  3. #13
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    25,238
    Quote Originally Posted by Quantum Strummer View Post
    I've always thought fanning the frets has more to do with playing feel than any intonation advantage.
    Proper playing position is the first pre-requisite for good playing feel:

    "Fan this, suckah!"
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  4. #14
    Senior Member dreadnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    7,519
    Why would I want to adapt to something that would change the whole dynamics of the guitar fretboard for me?
    "Heat lightning burnt the sky like alcohol." John Prine

    '76 D-25M
    '99 DV-52ABHG (gave to my son)
    '98 DeArmond Starfire Special
    Takamine Acoustic Flying "A"
    Crate CA-125D Acoustic Amp
    Fishman Loudbox Mini Acoustic Amp

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Nuuska View Post
    Hello

    Except that ONLY fan-fret solution is given in "dropped D" case - instead of using thicker string.

    EDIT

    If you have two identical guitars - they use same strings and sound exactly same - If you capo one on first fret and use slightly thicker strings - can you hear the difference?

    Practical problem with this might be, that it could be very hard to find right gauges.
    I think he's saying that you or I might need/want the tonal sound of low E in a desired scale length.

    In a alternate tunings ,
    The lows might sound muddy or just ok in a 25" scale and the highs in the same 25" scale sound great but if you add length to low E making it a 26" scale it sounds great . Now if the high E was in the 26" scale it would have a higher maybe tinner/thinner sound , he uses the banjo sound as a example.

    So the way to solve this is have fanned frets which keeps the string at it's optimal scale length to produce a pleasurable sound in different tunings .

    Fanned frets also help with the intonation , as you lower the strings the intonation talks a walk to , totally without our permission ! on a standard fretboard . Lol
    It's worse on short scale guitars .

    So the fan fret fixes those issues or helps to fix those issues so we can open tune to our hearts content without worry.

    Lastly is the economics giving your hand/fingers a more natural position.

    Win win .

    Which I hoping to experience. 😁

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by dreadnut View Post
    Why would I want to adapt to something that would change the whole dynamics of the guitar fretboard for me?
    You don't have adapt it's just an option .
    If you or anyone tries it you might play it without noticing the fret configuration.

    Many say it's more natural feeling and you'll play the same as always .

    But I'm not first hand with this that's why I'm asking if anyone has played one and if anyone could explain the difference between a fully fanned fret and a halfway fanned fret finger board . 😁

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Rayk View Post
    But I'm not first hand with this that's why I'm asking if anyone has played one and if anyone could explain the difference between a fully fanned fret and a halfway fanned fret finger board . ��
    I've not played one so I'm no help there, but in terms of the difference between a fully fanned -vs- a halfway fanned fingerboard, I am not sure there is one. The way I understand it, there should only be one fret that is perpendicular to the center line of the guitar.

    If you're looking at a guitar with relatively little offset between the high E and low E scale length, and the perpendicular fret is towards one end of the finger board, then the fan is likely going to be pretty minimal and may look "normal" for much of the finger board, but it becomes more pronounced the further you travel from the perpendicular fret.


    If on the other hand you have a larger offset, and a perpendicular fret towards the middle of the board, the fan is obvious throughout the board.
    Last edited by marius; 04-16-2019 at 07:13 PM.
    Josh

    1998 F 30 (Westerly)
    2015 M-120 (MIC)

    1969 Yamaha FG-75
    20?? Art & Lutherie Ami Cedar

  8. #18
    Howdy

    And it might well be that there is NO fret perpendicular - the point could well be between frets.

    Would be interesting to test - I have no time for this - if you have a ginny-pig guitar - strap/bolt/attach the body on workbench - set microphone of good quality on a stand and do not move it before all is done - put a string of gauge X on it and strum with a pendelum-pick- this is to get repeat accuracy - record the sound - put capo on first fret - tune to same pitch - repeat and record - second fret - third, fourth and so on. Now put another string of different gauge - tune to same pitch and repeat - record everything with different string gauges. Compare the sounds. Surely the extremes should be easily detected, when compared right after another - but the rest - I am maybe too technically oriented to see nothing but snake oil in this - that might be too harsh - fad might be better word- but like I wrote in earlier post - if there is a valid proof, then I admit and stand corrected.

    Again - ergonomics is totally out of my scope. Never tried one - would if there were one around . . .
    Last edited by Nuuska; 04-17-2019 at 08:44 AM.
    First good guitar - GUILD Duane Eddy 400 - I was 3rd owner - still regret letting it go 25 years ago - used to have Artist Award and Starfire - no regrets here.
    Present guitars - all bought new - F50R 1975 - F512 1977 - F212CSB 1979 - OM-240CE 2018 - Schecter Startocaster
    Bought secondhand - B30SB fretless - RED Songbird - White Songbird - S-60D - D-125 - Gibson 3/4-size acoustic 1957 - Carmelo Gonzales nylon string - old Levin Lute

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Nuuska View Post
    And it might well be that there is NO fret perpendicular - the point could well be between frets.
    Good point, but since fret slots are typically measured from a common perpendicular line across all strings (the nut end of the fret board) then I'd suspect the fret slots for a multi-scale guitar are also measured from the one common perpendicular line. You could surely do it from a point between frets but I'd think the physical reference point of a slot would make it easier. For the sake of argument though, the point might also be the nut or saddle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuuska View Post
    Would be interesting to test - I have no time for this...i am maybe too technically oriented to see nothing but snake oil in this
    I'd be interested in that test. I certainly don't have the time, resources or knowledge.
    Josh

    1998 F 30 (Westerly)
    2015 M-120 (MIC)

    1969 Yamaha FG-75
    20?? Art & Lutherie Ami Cedar

  10. #20
    Ok well I have one coming so .......

    Ok the scale was shown only partly where I got my info on this guitar .

    I read it as being just 24.75 which I thought was weird but I let it go anyway the scale is 25.5" Bass Side 24.75" Treble Side.

    Now what my other peeps say is that if the scale difference is over an inch between the two more adjustment by the player might be needed but if less then inch as shown above it's almost unnoticable but I digress . Lol

    So it will be an interesting experience to say the least but it is special order so .... Not sure when it arrive . It is the Eastman model posted above and Eastman says they only make so many a year and I need to get on the list . So my inside guy got lucky Eastman had one last model available though there's one or two dealers that has one listed best I can find.
    Also besides being Eastman's Flagship guitar, there words not mine , they are all hand built and if I'm reading right even the finger boards are done by hand as well no CNC work .
    But please do not qoute me on that as always the" Disclaimer" lol

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •