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Thread: Tidy Headstocks

  1. #41
    Senior Member davismanLV's Avatar
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    I replaced the stings that were 23 year old strings on my brother's cheap *** Washburn. It really sounded better but it made me seriously appreciate my decent guitars, you know? Poor guy, but he's half deaf so.... He played and was happy. Isn't it what that's it's all about.... being happy?? I think so...... Nighty kids!!
    Tom in Vegas

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  2. #42
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cutrofiano View Post
    The construction's immanent strength of the neck plus the truss rod (actio = reactio) withstand approx. 110 lb of string tension.
    Actually I believe even more than that; EJ-16 (pb lights .012-.053 which I think your F150ce was designed for) are 160lbs total set tension:
    http://daddario.com/DADProductFamily...768&familyid=9
    But that's really beside the point, which is that "stress" was probably a bad word choice on my part because I didn't want to use "torque" and I think we're actually agreeing on the critical point:

    Quote Originally Posted by cutrofiano View Post
    -> As truss rod and strings hold a balance, the truss rod only causes stress to the neck if you take the strings off all at a time without releasing the truss rod. I don't say it kills the guitar, I only mean the extra stress is avoidable.
    Moritz
    Truthfully though I don't even see the need to loosen the truss rod, only the advisability of releasing tension on the strings gradually and as mentioned I even do it in a pattern:
    Low E/G/D/High E/A/B; each just a couple of turns at a time until they're finally all completely slack.
    That way neither side of the neck gets unequally torqued.
    I've never loosened the rod to change strings and typically needed to tighten up slightly after new strings were installed, for the first few years, anyway, and neck is still just fine on the D25 after 22-1/2 years.
    I gotta admit sometimes I've wondered if it might actually have one of the necks that Guild said were specially selected for strength and light weight on the DV models.
    Last edited by adorshki; 03-21-2019 at 05:23 PM.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
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  3. #43
    Senior Member Guildedagain's Avatar
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    Torquing is aways best done in stages, starting from the center out in an X pattern.

  4. #44
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guildedagain View Post
    Torquing is aways best done in stages, starting from the center out in an X pattern.
    Done that way on cylinder heads to prevent warping, but not so easy on parallel (tuning posts) or circular patterns.
    Thus the next best approaches described.
    You'll notice the pattern on the tuning posts is a back-and-forth/up-and-down mix, starting with highest tension string.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  5. #45
    Senior Member Guildedagain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davismanLV View Post
    I replaced the stings that were 23 year old strings on my brother's cheap *** Washburn. It really sounded better but it made me seriously appreciate my decent guitars, you know? Poor guy, but he's half deaf so.... He played and was happy. Isn't it what that's it's all about.... being happy?? I think so...... Nighty kids!!
    That's how I feel when I go to GC and try a couple brand new guitars...

  6. #46
    Senior Member Guildedagain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adorshki View Post
    Done that way on cylinder heads to prevent warping, but not so easy on parallel (tuning posts) or circular patterns.
    Thus the next best approaches described.
    You'll notice the pattern on the tuning posts is a back-and-forth/up-and-down mix, starting with highest tension string.
    adorshki, you bring up with guitars I hadn't even thought of yet, lol. And yet I thought I was unusually afflicted...

  7. #47
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guildedagain View Post
    adorshki, you bring up with guitars I hadn't even thought of yet, lol. And yet I thought I was unusually afflicted...
    OCD's a tough job and very few of us can do it right.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  8. #48
    Senior Member Guildedagain's Avatar
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    I guess I can still take it to the next level ;-)

  9. #49
    Senior Member SFIV1967's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rayk View Post
    Is there a specific way for the ball to lay ?
    Very good question ! Here's a good read about it: https://hazeguitars.com/blog/ball-en...-good-coupling

    Ralf

  10. #50
    Senior Member Zelja's Avatar
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    How (& why) does break angle at the neck affect tone/sustain etc. when a string is fretted? Same with nut material when a note is fretted?
    '92 JF30-12, '89 D25 SB, '78 D50,'97 SF4, '63 CE-100D SB, '77 S-100, '72 S-100, '76 S-100 carved, '66 SFV SB, '96 S-100 DeLuxe,
    '55 X-50, '61 SFIII, '13 NS M75 , '13 Orpheum 12 Fret Dread,
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