Tidy Headstocks

davismanLV

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I replaced the stings that were 23 year old strings on my brother's cheap *** Washburn. It really sounded better but it made me seriously appreciate my decent guitars, you know? Poor guy, but he's half deaf so.... He played and was happy. Isn't it what that's it's all about.... being happy?? I think so...... Nighty kids!! :untroubled:
 

adorshki

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The construction's immanent strength of the neck plus the truss rod (actio = reactio) withstand approx. 110 lb of string tension.
Actually I believe even more than that; EJ-16 (pb lights .012-.053 which I think your F150ce was designed for) are 160lbs total set tension:
http://daddario.com/DADProductFamily.Page?ActiveID=3768&familyid=9
But that's really beside the point, which is that "stress" was probably a bad word choice on my part because I didn't want to use "torque" and I think we're actually agreeing on the critical point:

-> As truss rod and strings hold a balance, the truss rod only causes stress to the neck if you take the strings off all at a time without releasing the truss rod. I don't say it kills the guitar, I only mean the extra stress is avoidable.
Moritz
Truthfully though I don't even see the need to loosen the truss rod, only the advisability of releasing tension on the strings gradually and as mentioned I even do it in a pattern:
Low E/G/D/High E/A/B; each just a couple of turns at a time until they're finally all completely slack.
That way neither side of the neck gets unequally torqued.
I've never loosened the rod to change strings and typically needed to tighten up slightly after new strings were installed, for the first few years, anyway, and neck is still just fine on the D25 after 22-1/2 years.
I gotta admit sometimes I've wondered if it might actually have one of the necks that Guild said were specially selected for strength and light weight on the DV models.
 
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adorshki

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Torquing is aways best done in stages, starting from the center out in an X pattern.

Done that way on cylinder heads to prevent warping, but not so easy on parallel (tuning posts) or circular patterns.
Thus the next best approaches described.
You'll notice the pattern on the tuning posts is a back-and-forth/up-and-down mix, starting with highest tension string.
:friendly_wink:
 

Guildedagain

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I replaced the stings that were 23 year old strings on my brother's cheap *** Washburn. It really sounded better but it made me seriously appreciate my decent guitars, you know? Poor guy, but he's half deaf so.... He played and was happy. Isn't it what that's it's all about.... being happy?? I think so...... Nighty kids!! :untroubled:

That's how I feel when I go to GC and try a couple brand new guitars...
 

Guildedagain

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Done that way on cylinder heads to prevent warping, but not so easy on parallel (tuning posts) or circular patterns.
Thus the next best approaches described.
You'll notice the pattern on the tuning posts is a back-and-forth/up-and-down mix, starting with highest tension string.
:friendly_wink:

adorshki, you bring up with guitars I hadn't even thought of yet, lol. And yet I thought I was unusually afflicted...
 

Zelja

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How (& why) does break angle at the neck affect tone/sustain etc. when a string is fretted? Same with nut material when a note is fretted?
 

Guildedagain

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Hey, lay off the cables;-)

I mean, at $240 a foot, you can only imagine how good they sound... ;-)

Well, the nut is still part of the guitar when you fret a note, and I'd say from my recent surgery from plastic to bone (F30) it makes one helluva difference, so even if you're fretting notes, or capo'ed, the resonance increase from bone still works in your favor.

Particularly where it really counts, in your own ear.
 
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