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Thread: Tidy Headstocks

  1. #11
    I only use the Guild method on my Guilds.

    (The Guild method is shown in their Manuals)

  2. #12
    Super Moderator chazmo's Avatar
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    :) Can't argue with success!!!
    Guilds:
    1967 MK-VI Artist Special (Hoboken - Jacobs restoration 2018) - "The Mark"
    12ers:
    1994 JF-30-12Bld (Westerly),
    2006 F-512 (Tacoma),
    2010 F-212XL STD (New Hartford) - "Connie"
    2014 Orpheum 12 OOO SHRW (New Hartford)

    Other 12ers:
    1970 Martin D-12-20
    1980 Ibanez AW-75 (Series I)
    1984 Taylor 655

  3. #13
    I too use the Taylor method of restringing.

    Tommy
    Westerly
    1973 F-30

    New Hartford
    2011 F-30 Standard
    2011 F-30R Standard

  4. #14
    Senior Member Guildedagain's Avatar
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    The Taylor method looks not one iota different ( the winding on the capstan) than the way I was thought going back to the 80's easily.

    Whether you come though the strings or over the top is a personal choice, I've done both. Usually never come through anymore.

    The short nubs of strings coming through the post in the first pic are against everything I've been taught on stringing guitars.

    On any Gibson/Guild 3 on a side headstock, I pull the string up away from the hole clockwise on the bass side, counterclockwise on the treble strings. This counter motion is against the direction of the wind, not with it. Provides a very secure anchorpoint against slipping.

    I give all six strings a very good tug in the proper direction with a small pair of needlenose pliers to "set" the break, then cut all strings flush with the top of the post, leaving roughly 1/4" of string from the hole to the top of the post, just in case. Seeing barely any string protrude scares me.

    I also don't cut the strings until the strings are all through preliminary stretching.

    I always wind around the post in the time honored way, striving for a couple turns of winding, sometimes three if I'm trying to get more down angle behind the nut.

    On Fenders with the old tuners, I cut the strings two holes past the tuner, if I want more down angle, I go three holes past and make the cut. Works great everytime.

    I've never used a power (electric winder) and never will. Even the handcranked ones can damage headstocks if you're not careful.

    I use pencil lead (graphite) in my nut slots when restringing, always.

    I use a tuning fork to Verdi's A=432Hz and tune the rest of the guitar by ear, most often using the "James Taylor" method of detuning certain strings, like the B for sweeter sounding chords. The human ear does not like slightly sharp tones much at all...

  5. #15
    I like to get 3 wraps on the low E, but some of my posts are not tall enough to accomplish that, is the post adjustable? I never thought of it before.

    Ralph

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by F312 View Post
    I like to get 3 wraps on the low E, but some of my posts are not tall enough to accomplish that, is the post adjustable? I never thought of it before.

    Ralph
    I believe Gotoh has a model with height-adjustable string posts.

    I've always just done the first wrap over the string end, rest under and tried to stagger length to get the strings as close to the bottom of the posts as possible for break angle. The Guild method of threading the loose end around the string is super secure, but too pokey when de-stringing for me. I have some right angle wire cutters that let me trim nice and close once strung w/o risking nicking the headstock.

    '66 Starfire XII (sunburst) SOLD
    '71 S-100 (natural) SOLD
    '74 Starfire VI (walnut/mahogany body) TRADED
    '94 X-700 (natural)

  7. #17
    Senior Member Guildedagain's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention I use a pair of super top of the line Snap On Electronics sized (small) "pair of dikes" as in diagonal cutters and it's reeeally important to cut the string ends square, not an angled "boloney cut", a cut like that will pierce your fingers easily, a dead straight cut with the right pliers, not as much it makes a difference. I use the top of the tuner post as a stand to brace the pliers, way far from any other strings or the headstock.

    I don't like any sort of locking tuners, prefer the old way.

    Nigel says the old way has better sustain?


    ;-)

    My D28, gone now, turned into two Guilds. Pics like these mean the chopping block. You can seen the ends of the strings well enough, tucked around the post in a way that won’t hurt anyone or snag polishing cloths. To me, that’s tidy. The tidiest.



    1980 Gibson The Paul I sent to a guy in Ireland just in time for New Year’s Day, about ten years ago… You can see the directional wraps around the capstans, tuner shafts. Hhaha, you can see the high E string leftover needs to be tamed a little, tucked in.



    Also, check out the scalloped nut, anyone familiar with scalloped nuts? My last Flametop, gone, same old wrap.



    I guess I could say I’m a bit of a wrap artist when it comes to guitars, to borrow an line from a old Joni Mitchell song, “Nobody does it, quite the way I do”…

    And now for something completely different!

    The curled up strings ends on my F30 because I didn’t know how long I’d be leaving them on. Just about the prettiest job I ever done, I’ll say ;-)) That's the new nut I tried my hardest to screw up, but some force (not Murphy) made it come out nearly divine, and the guitar is freakin loud now.

    Last edited by Guildedagain; 03-20-2019 at 07:07 PM.

  8. #18
    Super Moderator chazmo's Avatar
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    I'd never considered the break angle over the nut before... What do you guys perceive is the advantage of a more extreme break angle over the nut? I'd actually think less is better as you don't want strings binding on the nut during tuning.
    Guilds:
    1967 MK-VI Artist Special (Hoboken - Jacobs restoration 2018) - "The Mark"
    12ers:
    1994 JF-30-12Bld (Westerly),
    2006 F-512 (Tacoma),
    2010 F-212XL STD (New Hartford) - "Connie"
    2014 Orpheum 12 OOO SHRW (New Hartford)

    Other 12ers:
    1970 Martin D-12-20
    1980 Ibanez AW-75 (Series I)
    1984 Taylor 655

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Guildedagain View Post
    . . .to borrow an line from a old Joni Mitchell song, “Nobody does it, quite the way I do”…

    And now for something completely different!

    Two Bravo's - One for Joni - One for Monty Python
    Last edited by Nuuska; 03-20-2019 at 08:58 PM.
    First good guitar - GUILD Duane Eddy 400 - I was 3rd owner - still regret letting it go 25 years ago - used to have Artist Award and Starfire - no regrets here.
    Present guitars - all bought new - F50R 1975 - F512 1977 - F212CSB 1979 - OM-240CE 2018 - Schecter Startocaster
    Bought secondhand - B30SB fretless - RED Songbird - White Songbird - S-60D - D-125 - Gibson 3/4-size acoustic 1957 - Carmelo Gonzales nylon string - old Levin Lute

  10. #20
    Funny, what's being called the 'Taylor Method' here is essentially how I first learned to install strings in 1971, except for leaving more string exposed at the end & putting a sharp kink in it.
    > Guilds: '73 F-30R / '74 F-40nt / '76 G-37bld / '92 D-6nt-hg / '94 JF-30nt / '97 Starfire III / '14 Savoy A-150b
    > Gibsons: '22 "A" Mandolin / '66 ES-125T / '66 Epi Cortez (B-25) / '90 Tennessean / '00 J-100xt / '02 J-45 RW / '02 SG / '07 CJ-165 / '09 ES-339 / '10 ES-330L / '11 ES-335 P90s / '12 ES-330 VOS / '12 LP Special / '12 J-185 / '13 LG-2 / '13 M.Kalamazoo / '14 J-15 / '15 J-50
    > Epis: '00 AIUSA Sheraton / '05 McCartney Texan / '09 Elitist Casino
    > Martins: '00 OOO-16 / '01 CS RW D

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