I am likely being overly cautious, but this is the first USA made guitar I have ever purchased and the first to cost over $1000.00.
You probably realize I was teasing slightly by telling you to let us know how it went, implying you're the experimental test case, but I'm pretty darn sure the varnish is a tougher animal than NCL.
"Catalyzed" means once the hardening (curing)reaction is complete, it's forever, like epoxy.
Takes extreme conditions to break it down. (Extreme enough to destroy the guitar along with the finish).
I've even wondered if it might be a "poly" finish but haven't seen Guild admit it outright, and that could be because there are purists who are prejudiced against poly on guitars. (I admit that given a choice I prefer NCL)
Poly finishes
are catalyzed but "varnish" is a generic term that covers a broad range of formulae so I'm not jumping to any conclusions.
In any case you certainly can't go wrong erring on the side of caution and as all of mine were bought new and my D25 was also my first
really good and US-built guitar, I get it.
It listed at $1249.00 new, and even though I got a scream of a deal on it at like $700.00, that's probably pretty darn close to what you just did in inflation-adjusted dollars.
Congrats!
Oh yes, warping?
Comes from too much humidity, the wood will swell from it.
Solid wood guitars'll absorb and release their humidity over a period of days to weeks as they adjust to the ambient relative humidity.
Ideal range is 45-55%.
Too dry for too long and you risk cracks along grain lines as the wood shrinks.
So I know those come with the Humidi-cases and depending on where you live that's a valuable feature.
Some folks are surprised to learn that the coldest air is the driest, and in winter, heating systems also lower humidity.
SO, that'll help ya get started on the proper care and feeding of a
good all-solid wood guitar.
:tranquillity: