F30 period or factory differences?

HeyMikey

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HeyMikey

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I did but that thread is a bit all over the place and I’m trying to focus in. I can move my question there if needed.
 

adorshki

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Don't know if you saw this recent thread that may be helpful:

http://letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?197374-Questions-about-the-Guild-F-30

walrus

I did but that thread is a bit all over the place and I’m trying to focus in. I can move my question there if needed.

Mikey no snark intended but everything you're asking except bracing is covered in that thread, and it's probably the most comprehensive and concise (for this place) recap that's ever been done on F30's across their entire history, anywhere.
Bracing is a very cloudy issue here, even Hans makes no mentions in his book, I could only guess at reasons why, but I can just about guarantee there's going to be a bracing difference between the short and long scale versions because of different bridge placement if nothing else.
Another issue is that unless you know for sure an instrument is "as built", how can you tell if those shaved or even scalloped braces you see with an inspection mirror are actually unmodified?
A note on 1-3/4 nut: you're going to have to ask every seller specifically because during Westerly at least, we know Guild put off-spec nuts on models virtually on a whim.
There's been many reports of that although I don't recall one about F30's specifically. It's most commonly reported on dreadnoughts.
Best advice? You want a 1-3/4" nut with a 'hog back?
Get a New Hartford F30 Standard and don't look back.
They've got virtual unanimous owner approval, with possible exception of maybe one guy who decided the F30 tone just wasn't his cup of tea?
Final note: avoid Corona F30's at all costs.
They'd be counterfeits.
Corona didn't make F30's.
:friendly_wink:
 

HeyMikey

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I’ll close this and move my question to the other thread
 
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