NGD: Just picked up a 1965 Guild F30

Rayk

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I’d be surprised if it hasn’t had in all those years but a good Luthiers work would be hard to see especially after the years .
But if it hasn’t that’s pretty cool mileage .

Put a straight edge on her see where it sits on the bridge .

What’s the action height ? Also for kicks a giggles a few good side photos would cool to see what top looks like such as sagging around the fingerboard/sound hole , bridge leaning forward etc . I’m sure you would have noticed that stuff all ready . 😁

Mojo !!!
 

adorshki

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If the action is low and comfortable now, after 55 years, and barring any sudden or massive changes in humidity, is it safe to say the neck has moved as much as its going to and likely remain stable?
Any opinions are welcome
Just from the pics at hand I agree it doesn't look like the neck's been off.
I guess it's possible it was, and the finish was touched up so well it's invisible, but I'm thinking you'd need a magnifying glass to tell.
As for whether it's likely to remain stable, well, each guitar is a unique case.
There's a school the believes eventuallyANY steel-string flat-top will need a reset, and a school that believes that some of 'em will survive forever, for all practical purposes.
Like rust, string tension never sleeps so it would seem to make sense that eventually time will take its toll.
That's countered with several stories from original owners here about guitars that appear to show just what you are pondering:
Just so much shifting of the joint and an apparent stabilization for 20 or 30 years after.
I guess if we could communicate with the future somehow we could get an answer about those instruments in another 30 years....
I AM in the school that believes a well-cared for piece can last for a very long time, like over 50 years, without needing a reset.
I'd like to think "Forever", but at this point I don't think anybody could answer with absolute certainty.
"LIKELY to remain stable?"
I got a gut feeling the odds are in your favor for as long as you'll want some use out of it.
:friendly_wink:

PS love that top. The more I see of those old tops the more I can appreciate 'em.
 

adorshki

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6/64 on the low E, 5/64 on the high e

I'll try to find a straight edge somewhere

I'll take some side pics later tonight

In the '90's at least, that was their standard factory set-up spec**, right on the website and published in Guild Gallery #1, but I've never seen any "official" spec for '60's era builds.
Wouldn't surprise me if, like New Hartford, they never published one.
But those heights are very workable for me, too. It's where all of mine came at and where I keep 'em.
**Actually "5 to 6/64 and 4 to 5/64".
 

ClydeTower

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Put a straight edge on her see where it sits on the bridge .

What’s the action height ? Also for kicks a giggles a few good side photos would cool to see what top looks like such as sagging around the fingerboard/sound hole , bridge leaning forward etc . I’m sure you would have noticed that stuff all ready . ��

Mojo !!!

So as expected, the straight edge doesn't line up with the bridge and comes in a little lower. There is also a little belly bloat, but similar to what I have on other guitars... I was thinking, any thoughts on the bridge doctor? Might be something I would consider later down the road if it ever becomes an issue.

As for the bridge, no lifting, seems pretty flat and flush with the body.

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mavuser

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very, very nice CT, congrats!

that thing is looking pretty nice if you ask me. definitely don’t use a bridge doctor if its not necessary. that all looks pretty good for a 1965 acoustic. maybe humidify for a while and see how she responds. u can also use 11 gauge strings on that which will sound fantastic, and less tension than heavier. but it looks to be in pretty good shape.
 

ClydeTower

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very, very nice CT, congrats!

that thing is looking pretty nice if you ask me. definitely don’t use a bridge doctor if its not necessary. that all looks pretty good for a 1965 acoustic. maybe humidify for a while and see how she responds. u can also use 11 gauge strings on that which will sound fantastic, and less tension than heavier. but it looks to be in pretty good shape.

Thanks Mav. My thoughts exactly. As of now, the action is fine, so I won't be doing anything to it. And maybe it will stay that way for a long while, who knows. If it does become an issue later down the road, I guess I'll consider options. Isn't there a bridge doctor version that doesn't require drilling through the bridge? I think it uses brass bridge pins to secure the post inside the guitar.
 

ClydeTower

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Question / observation: I recently picked up a 1966 F212XL, first year production. The headstock overlay had shrunk considerably and pretty much popped off as soon as I removed the tuners.

I was surprised to see that the top of the headstock (underneath the overlay) was covered in a thin layer of what appears to be white FORMICA!

In other words, the headstock is a sandwich: 1.) natural wood headstock, 2.) a layer of formica on top of that, 3.) plastic overlay on top of that.

Since then, I've seen several other Guilds of that vintage, like yours, with tell-tale white edges showing around the shrinking overlay.

I assuming this was how they made 'em for awhile, but I haven't noticed anyone else ever reporting it. And when did they stop I wonder?

Glenn

Wiley, you were right, there is shrinkage of the headstock overlay which shows a white edge around the overlay. It seems stable though. To be honest, I don't mind it at all... kind of looks like a cross between white binding and that worn patina look.

Don't know if you have had the same experience with your 66 F212XL, but for me, this 65 Hoboken F30 is a revelation. The tone is just out of this world! Its got something no other guitar in my herd has. The word "MOJO" has been thrown around a lot, but that's exactly what it is. I just hope the neck stays stable for a while to come and won't need a reset... but in the event that it did, I would spend the $ for sure. Not everyday you find that *special* guitar.
 

Rayk

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Me being me I’d think some humidity as mentioned above and see what happens if needed possibly add a little weight behind the bridge , no no no make a frame that can clamp down over the top and bottom with all thread or some long bolts along with a block and some shims on the sound hole side along the x brace to help equalize the stress if needed and take my time .

I fully expect everyone to scoff at that idea but hey I’m a shade tree mechanic finding innovative ways to do things is a must , just don’t do it drunk lmao .

Hmmm maybe I never should have never mentioned anything ..... lol
 
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ClydeTower

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Me being me I’d think some humidity as mentioned above and see what happens if needed possibly add a little weight behind the bridge , no no no make a frame that can clamp down over the top and bottom with all thread or some long bolts along with a block and some shims on the sound hole side along the x brace to help equalize the stress if needed and take my time .

I fully expect everyone to scoff at that idea but hey I’m a shade tree mechanic finding innovative ways to do things is a must , just don’t do it drunk lmao .

Hmmm maybe I never should have never mentioned anything ..... lol

Ray, you're more courageous than I am... not sure I have the skills to attempt anything like that...

Actually, I might have my luthier look at it just to get his opinion. For now, I think we could ramp the bridge (string slots) to get a better angle over the saddle. That might get me a little extra mileage. Maybe eventually shave a few mm off the bridge if we get close to neck reset territory. Not an issue since I think the bridge would need to be changed if ever a reset was in order.
 
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F312

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I picked up my 65' Hoboken F30 at the border today.

The seller had a 2 day return policy so, parked at the border patrol parking lot on the US side, I took out the guitar, gave it a good look over and played it in the back seat for at least 30 min. If ever the guitar wasn't what I was expecting, I could head over to the nearest UPS store and ship her back...

As expected, it does have its share of battle scars. Most notable is the top crack just under the pickguard which is common I hear for a guitar from this period. Its been professionally cleated and stable, but its there and quite visible. The action is relatively low and comfortable, however, there is little to no room left on the saddle to go any lower if ever it needs it. And the neck has no relief, flat as pankake. Surprisingly, the frets show very little ware. After playing for a little while, I can say this F30 definitely has a lot of mojo going on. The tone is rich, full and clear as a bell. Tons of character and charm, I'm very pleased.

Looking forward, my only worry would be if this guitar would eventually need a neck reset. The seller was not able to say if it ever had one. The neck joint doesn't show any apparent signs of it. Can anyone here tell by looking at the pics?
If the action is low and comfortable now, after 55 years, and barring any sudden or massive changes in humidity, is it safe to say the neck has moved as much as its going to and likely remain stable?

Any opinions are welcome

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Now that shot of the top is rich.

Ralph
 

Rayk

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Ray, you're more courageous than I am... not sure I have the skills to attempt anything like that...

Actually, I might have my luthier look at it just to get his opinion. For now, I think we could ramp the bridge (string slots) to get a better angle over the saddle. That might get me a little extra mileage. Maybe eventually shave a few mm off the bridge if we get close to neck reset territory. Not an issue since I think the bridge would need to be changed if ever a reset was in order.

I hear ya , to me not hard to do or costly maybe 20 bucks just time consuming as sit and wait thing lol

But I feel the end result would work guess now I need a project guitar to try it on lol

But if I had the funds to pay a Luthier I would go that way , maybe lol
 

Ross

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Hi Clyde:

Beautiful guitar - je suis jaloux, mon vieux!

Ramping the string slots sounds like a relatively easy remedy. I did it to my D-25 a few years ago.
 

ClydeTower

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Hi Clyde:

Beautiful guitar - je suis jaloux, mon vieux!

Ramping the string slots sounds like a relatively easy remedy. I did it to my D-25 a few years ago.

Salut Ross! Tu parles français!... c'est rare dans un groupe comme celui-ci. Merci pour ton commentaire, ça me rassure :)
 
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