Starfire II Bass Reissue - Capacitors

Llewellen

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
Vancouver Island
Does anyone know which capacitor values are stock in this bass? I would rather not disassemble the electronics to find out before ordering some alternatives to experiment with. Thank you.
 

fronobulax

Bassist, GAD and the Hot Mess Mods
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
24,708
Reaction score
8,836
Location
Central Virginia, USA
Guild Total
5
Welcome.

To clarify, are you referring to a Newark Street Starfire II or the 90's Starfire II which is often referred to as the reissue by folks with 60's or 70's Starfires?
 

Llewellen

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
Vancouver Island
Welcome.

To clarify, are you referring to a Newark Street Starfire II or the 90's Starfire II which is often referred to as the reissue by folks with 60's or 70's Starfires?

Sorry, I should have been more precise with my question. I am referring to the Newark street current reissue made in Korea.
 

katthestar

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
126
Reaction score
0
If his picture is of his bass, I would think he's talking about a Newark Street. I kind of assumed it was an NS. I kind of forget about the 90's ones being reissues, despite actually owning one.
 

fronobulax

Bassist, GAD and the Hot Mess Mods
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
24,708
Reaction score
8,836
Location
Central Virginia, USA
Guild Total
5
If his picture is of his bass, I would think he's talking about a Newark Street. I kind of assumed it was an NS. I kind of forget about the 90's ones being reissues, despite actually owning one.

When your eyes are old enough that Guild wasn't making basses during your birth year it is sometimes hard to get details from a teeny, tiny profile picture, so I figured it was more fun to ask.

I think I've seen cap values for a Newark Street SF I somewhere but not a II. My ability to search is limited at the moment but if it is still an open question in a couple of days I will look harder.
 

Minnesota Flats

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
1,284
Reaction score
1,164
I stuck a bore light and an adjustable dentist's mirror in the F-hole of my NS-SF-II and was unable to locate any caps. I think they may be hidden inside some un-shrunk shrink tubing that the factory used to sheath/insulate some of the wiring.

If I get more time later, maybe I'll open things up and see if I can locate them (unless somebody else gets around to it first).
 

Llewellen

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
Vancouver Island
I stuck a bore light and an adjustable dentist's mirror in the F-hole of my NS-SF-II and was unable to locate any caps. I think they may be hidden inside some un-shrunk shrink tubing that the factory used to sheath/insulate some of the wiring.

If I get more time later, maybe I'll open things up and see if I can locate them (unless somebody else gets around to it first).

Thanks but no need to go to that much trouble. If someone doesn't know just off the top of their head, I'll order some caps of various values. They're not that expensive since I won't be buying any of the "snake oil" ones :)
 

katthestar

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
126
Reaction score
0
I would like to point out that Guild was only making the Pilot bass when I was born. A bass which I've never played. My favorite Guild bass was discontinued 2 years before I was even born. I also prefer the metal bridge on the 90's reissue, so anything else sticks out like a sore thumb. Mostly because all I can think of are how the saddles will inevitably fall out and get broken or lost.
 

Minnesota Flats

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
1,284
Reaction score
1,164
"I also prefer the metal bridge on the 90's reissue, so anything else sticks out like a sore thumb."

I got some brass replacement saddles for my NS SF from member PeteyBass before he stopped making them. But maybe you also preferred the bridges with the barrel saddles because of their extra adjustability for intonation.
 

hieronymous

Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2007
Messages
415
Reaction score
125
Location
Northern CA
Guild Total
1
I can't help with the capacitor question, but will say that my fretless M-85 is almost from my birth year - I'm a '70, the bass is most likely a '71. And I also got the metal replacement saddles from PeteyBass, but am holding off on installing them until I lose or break one of my rosewood ones. One already looks like a replacement. As a fretless with flatwounds I'm enjoying the wood saddles, I don't need killer sustain, in fact lack of sustain fits my needs more!
 

mavuser

Enlightened Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
8,128
Reaction score
2,637
Location
New York
Harry, 1970 is a cool year to be born. My favorite year for Guild and also for GD. Are you looking for a birth year Jetstar bass with neck bisonic and bridge mini bucker? let me know if so!
 

Happy Face

Justified Ancient of MuMu
Joined
Dec 11, 2007
Messages
916
Reaction score
239
Mr. Redundancy here: I cannot imagine not having spare saddles. Wood & metal.

Only once have I ever witnessed a saddle pop out and skitter across the stage. That was when someone I did not like asked to use my bass for one song. He decided to play slap & pop and got a little over-excited. Luckily I spotted it.
 

fronobulax

Bassist, GAD and the Hot Mess Mods
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
24,708
Reaction score
8,836
Location
Central Virginia, USA
Guild Total
5
I would like to point out that Guild was only making the Pilot bass when I was born. A bass which I've never played. My favorite Guild bass was discontinued 2 years before I was even born. I also prefer the metal bridge on the 90's reissue, so anything else sticks out like a sore thumb. Mostly because all I can think of are how the saddles will inevitably fall out and get broken or lost.

You should try a Pilot. You'd almost certainly find something to like even if it doesn't become your "go to" instrument.

As a rule of thumb anyone who was born before 1960 will have trouble finding a birth year bass. If I can find my cane and glasses I'd go look for Hans' book to get a better date but I really should do something about the kids on the lawn first. Old does mean being the original (and only) owner of a '71 JS II, though. There are easier bridges to work with but managing the saddles is part of the charm :) FWIW I have never lost a saddle and only had one break ;-)
 

bassman10096

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
86
Reaction score
26
I’ve been playing an NS Starfire 2 w Novak Bisonics and the newer barrel bridge, retrofitted. The barrel saddle bridge gives up some aesthetics and vibe, but the added stability and intonation control improves performance enough for me to have gotten over it.
 

Minnesota Flats

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
1,284
Reaction score
1,164
Isn't there a slight spacing difference between the mounting holes (NS rosewood-saddle vs. DeArmond "barrel-type" harp bridges)? Or do I have that wrong?

The NS Guild mounting holes are spaced about 1-1/16" apart (center-center) while the 1990s Guild "barrel-type" mount holes are closer to 1-1/4" apart (center-center). I suspect that the DeArmond bridges are probably dimensionally identical to the 1990s Guild bridges, but don't know it for a fact.

If that assumption is correct, then mounting the barrel bridge would involve filling the old mounting holes and drilling new ones with the slightly wider spacing.
 
Top