Trying to Date My Guild D-35

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The serial # doesn't "fit" with what I saw on a .pdf file of Guild serial #'s cross-referenced with the year of manufacture. I didn't see how to "attach" some pics, so I guess I'll just insert them into the body of this post. The serial # is JO 2201. This number is stamped into the back of the headstock and is noted on a sticker visible down through the sound hole. Also note the word "Guild" burnished into the wood near the sticker. Only a very smal corner of the "G" is visible but the "uild" is clearly visible. Anyway, hope y'all can help date this guitar. Thanks in advance.

Also, I just read at the bottom while previewing the post that I cannot post attachments or edit my posts. So, I am just hoping the pics show up 'cause they don't when previewing(fingers crossed).


Richard Hofer
Denton, Texas

open


open


open


open
 

fronobulax

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Welcome. I was able to figure out what you were trying to link to. I extracted the link, displayed it in a browser, copied the image file location and pasted that into the LTG post. I'm surprised that worked but...

I'd call that serial OJ 2201 which makes it a D-35 from after 1969 according to the often inaccurate PDF. I'd guess 1970 because it is after the last 1969 entry and the change in numbering did not magically happen on Jan. 1, 1970
 

hansmoust

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The serial # doesn't "fit" with what I saw on a .pdf file of Guild serial #'s cross-referenced with the year of manufacture. I didn't see how to "attach" some pics, so I guess I'll just insert them into the body of this post. The serial # is JO 2201. This number is stamped into the back of the headstock and is noted on a sticker visible down through the sound hole. Also note the word "Guild" burnished into the wood near the sticker. Only a very smal corner of the "G" is visible but the "uild" is clearly visible. Anyway, hope y'all can help date this guitar.

Hello Richard,

Welcome! You probably meant to type # OJ-2201 as the serial number. If that's the case then your Guild D-35 was completed during the year 1970.

Sincerely,

Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
 
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aha! just read your posts... sorry for my bumbling use of a new(to me) site. Thanks for the info.
 

Stuball48

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Welcome to a great guitar forum, Richard, and you got the "big guns" from the getgo. You want Hans and Frono as your "phone a friend" on guitar questions, especially, Guild should you ever get on that TV game show-something about millionaire.
 
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ok, my last question.... the original tuners were replaced with Grovers sometime in the past(I just purchsed the guitar yesterday). I'd like to find some period-correct tuners to return the guitar to near as original as I can get. do such tuners magically grow on trees? or will I need to find some modern replacements?
 

Br1ck

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I own OJ 1644 from the same year. Hans dated mine too. I've been playing it for the better part of two weeks now. My Epi Texan is feeling neglected.

I remember playing Guilds from around 1972 on. They were starving student favorites when the extra $75 or so for a Martin D 18 was a couple week's food and gas money.

Love the neck and the tonal balance. Everything you need and nothing you don't. I even like the three on a plate tuners. As my luthier pointed out, they are adequate. My top is obviously from the cheaper model pile because it has bear claw from when bear claw was a flawed piece of spruce. The even more flawed ones went to the D 25 pile.

Anyway D 35s are serious guitars and well worth any work that they need.
 

Br1ck

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As far as tuners go, there must be a lot of serviceable tuners in parts drawers everywhere, but finding them is another matter. E mail Hans and see if he has any NOS tuners.

Another issue is the holes may have been reamed out for larger bushings. They would need to be doweled and drilled out if this is the case. A PITA. Check StewMac for possible replacements.
 

Br1ck

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Is your primary motive to return to stock, get rid of the plate imprint by going back to plates, or both? I still think the whole placement distance and the bushing size, both inner and outer diameter are going to be issues.

I have a friend with an old Epiphone that had the tuners replaced decades ago with a tuner that had a long shaft. They never allowed enough downward string angle. I replaced them with new Kluson three on a plate tuners like the guitar already had. The headstock had been drilled for larger bushings. Kluson sells bushings with the larger outer diameter so you don't have to dowel and redrill the holes. They fit fine except one hole was off, so one tuner binds because the distance is not correct.

I sympathize with techs that have to deal with poor work done before. But really, the stock tuners are not the best. They work is about all I can say for them, which is why so many were swapped out like on yours. You can fill the holes though, but the plate imprint will remain. The new enclosed style tuners do add weight though. Single open back tuners solve this issue but not the plate imprint problem. If you can't find plate tuners you can drop in with no issues, I'd have a luthier do the work, especially if you go to single open back Waverly type. You'd want the screw holes filled and finish work done to ditch the plate imprint.

You have a very good year if mine is any indication. Later on they, like all manufacturers, built heavier to protect from warranty issues.

My Epiphone Texan is lightly built. I played a 67, just two years later, and it was not in the same league.
 
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I'm not a gigging musician; in fact, calling myself a "musician" is way optimistic and disengenous. I play a little guitar and sing a little, that's all. I'm 65 years old but have not played all my life, not seriously anyway; I'm not a beginner but quite unaccomplished. A friend let me borrow several of his guitars to try and get a feel for what I'd like. It seems to me that most every guitar feels different and is just a matter of adapting to the guitar. And my ear is terrible; thank God for electronic tuners like Snarks. All that having been said, tuners that are merely adequate to most are good enough for me. I would like to return the guitar to a more original condition. The guy I bought the guitar from does repair work also. If/when I find the tuners(NOS or modern knock-offs), I'll take everything to him and let him come up with a game plan.
 

Br1ck

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Has anyone already put some modern reproduction tuners on their D 35? Chime in please.

Otherwise call around to find some luthiers who were Guild repair authorized service centers. Or e mail Mr Fixit for your options. And don't forget Hans Moust. He came up with a Brazilian NOS bridge when I needed one.

Keep in mind you will be doing this for you because you want a stock looking guitar. I can't see these being a collector's item. You will get a lot of enjoyment from it.
 

SFIV1967

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Welcome to LTG! Here is a picture of the original Japanese made tuners on the D-35 from that time. I guess it will be difficult to find a good set.

https://images.reverb.com/image/upl...0,w_1600/v1490156401/kkhx56zvdl63rbl4tp0j.jpg

EDIT: It looks like Ken Nash has a set, but they are not cheap as they are rare. Scoll down to the second last picture: http://www.theguitarmechanic.com/GuildTuner.html

Ralf

Ralf,

Thanks for this info! Yes, they are pricey but, at my advanced age, I'm willing to pay for what I really want. I have another "iron in the fire" where I may come up with some old used original tuners in decent working order. We'll see where this all leads. I'm just encouraged that such parts ARE available. If I'm lucky enough to acquire either set, I'll then need to see if special attention and accomodation will be needed regarding the post holes, if they've been drilled out larger for the Grovers. Time will tell. Thanks again for the links!


Richard
 
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