Can your skin harm

Cougar

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I have had that problem with the neck of my F50R....

Hadn't seen this thread before. Man, I wipe down the neck of any and all my guitars after playing. Every so often I'll spray a little pump polish on the rag.... Rub it in, then wipe it off....
 

Rayk

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Good habits for sure but one I’ve never done lol .
 

beecee

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That is surprising Ray, especially as you seem rather, um, "detail orientated" when you inspect a new guitar based on past posts.

Baby diapers, (clean), have been my go to for years.
 

Cougar

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Baby diapers, (clean), have been my go to for years.

Somehow I've amassed a half dozen "rags" specifically made for polishing guitars. I guess a couple came with other purchases. The only problem is, which one to use?! I guess I'll get by....
 

adorshki

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Somehow I've amassed a half dozen "rags" specifically made for polishing guitars. I guess a couple came with other purchases. The only problem is, which one to use?! I guess I'll get by....

NO microfiber on NCL.
The nylon it's made of is harder than the lacquer, it'll scuff it over time.
Covered somewhere before, if not in this thread.

sunscreen?
Don't think it shines up as well as good ol' Dunlop or Virtuoso.
 

F312

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I know the best way to "not" have this happen to the part of your guitar that gets that "shmoo" on it, you hang it on the wall and admire it. Yes, I know it sounds simple, but it works, it really does. It's the best kept secret out there.

Ralph
 

Rayk

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That is surprising Ray, especially as you seem rather, um, "detail orientated" when you inspect a new guitar based on past posts.

Baby diapers, (clean), have been my go to for years.

True but the guitars usually stay in the same shape as I get them. Sometimes a they get tad bit to much dust from sitting out oh that reminds me Ray ! Cover the Mics ! Ok on it . And they get a wipe down but basically just with a Damp rag micro fiber of coarse . Lol

But I have the Blueridge dread and the Om 120 that’s poly so no worries there oh and another new one coming also poly .

It’s a tad weird the CV-1 as much as I played didn’t show any dull spots from the arm like the others .

My Wilborn cleaned up spotless . Ben must have a way to cure his NCL as there was absolutely no off gassing like the F55 had and I’m thinking it needed more set up time . Over all the F55 cleared up pretty good except a little spot that I can buff out .
 

adorshki

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It’s a tad weird the CV-1 as much as I played didn’t show any dull spots from the arm like the others .
I'm gonna take a guess it's due to formulation AND being 10 years old, plenty of time to have outgassed off a lot of the solvents.
So a much harder surface when you started on it, probably much more resistant to permeation of the acids that will soften it up and make it dull.
A while back maybe about a year ago, TXbumper mentioned his belief that NCL was "microporous", IIRC.
I didn't get it then, but after thinking about it for a while, I can see there must be some way that the solvent gasses can continue to escape continuously so my current hypothesis is that the surface will tend to crystallize first, but there are still little capillaries that remain open, allowing the deeper solvents to escape. Maybe it's the presence of the solvent itself that keeps the capillaries open until they finally harden up as well, when enough solvent gasses have finally dissipated.



My Wilborn cleaned up spotless . Ben must have a way to cure his NCL as there was absolutely no off gassing like the F55 had and I’m thinking it needed more set up time .
Remember there are different formulations and the 2 prime variables will be how much solids are in it, and what the mix of solvents and plasticizers are.***
Or it might just actually be that he lets 'em dry longer than usual between coats..or has learned other tricks over the years that let him do a better job than a production line could.
HE could probably tell you.

Over all the F55 cleared up pretty good except a little spot that I can buff out.
Still suggest waiting a while before attempting buffing, give it time to harden up again, at least 3 months.

***Example: I'm absolutely positive the stuff they sell in aerosol cans from StewMac today will not be the same stuff they used in Tacoma in '07 or in Oxnard right now.
 

adorshki

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sunscreen?

loreal-sublime-sun-liquid-silk-advanced-sunscreen-ingredients.jpg


laneige_sun_powder3.jpg


It's that ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate that makes me nervous.

Going by the name "Pure and Free Liquid Daily Sunblock" this stuff should be safe enough to eat, though:
3_0_5_4_3200033.PNG
 

docfishr

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Dermatologists would have us believe that the sun causes skin cancer. How ever did the human race survive?
Those ingredients contain plenty of carcinogens. Continued use will cause cancer as well as destroy your guitar's finish.
 

Rayk

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I'm gonna take a guess it's due to formulation AND being 10 years old, plenty of time to have outgassed off a lot of the solvents.
So a much harder surface when you started on it, probably much more resistant to permeation of the acids that will soften it up and make it dull.
A while back maybe about a year ago, TXbumper mentioned his belief that NCL was "microporous", IIRC.
I didn't get it then, but after thinking about it for a while, I can see there must be some way that the solvent gasses can continue to escape continuously so my current hypothesis is that the surface will tend to crystallize first, but there are still little capillaries that remain open, allowing the deeper solvents to escape. Maybe it's the presence of the solvent itself that keeps the capillaries open until they finally harden up as well, when enough solvent gasses have finally dissipated.




Remember there are different formulations and the 2 prime variables will be how much solids are in it, and what the mix of solvents and plasticizers are.***
Or it might just actually be that he lets 'em dry longer than usual between coats..or has learned other tricks over the years that let him do a better job than a production line could.
HE could probably tell you.


Still suggest waiting a while before attempting buffing, give it time to harden up again, at least 3 months.

***Example: I'm absolutely positive the stuff they sell in aerosol cans from StewMac today will not be the same stuff they used in Tacoma in '07 or in Oxnard right now.
Yup, yup and yup lol

Ben had my guitar done pretty fast once he started from his spay date I think maybe two weeks .

If I remember I’ll ask him .
 

CosmicArkie

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I'm gonna take a guess it's due to formulation ....

***Example: I'm absolutely positive the stuff they sell in aerosol cans from StewMac today will not be the same stuff they used in Tacoma in '07 or in Oxnard right now.

And the stuff in the aerosol cans ain't the same as the "bulk" quarts, either.
 

adorshki

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And the stuff in the aerosol cans ain't the same as the "bulk" quarts, either.

A-yup.
The stuff in the can is gonna be formulated to stay stable in the can, and be of a consistency that'll spray well in that method: under gas pressure from a plastic nozzle.
I'm gonna guess the bulk stuff is thicker and designed to be thinned to an appropriate viscosity for spraying through a variety of spray gun apertures.
Before we even examine the solids vs plasticizers vs solvents content.
As pointed out in a long ago thread about NCL> the stuff itself has been undergoing evolution ever since it was introduced, and even more particularly since the environmental hazards of the solvents themselves became better understood.
 
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