1979 D35 purchase

ProjectileBeaver

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Hi there,

I'm relatively new to the forum but have been looking for a used Guild for a while now. I've found a D35 for $400, though its a reasonable distance away so I thought it would be worthwhile getting some opinions on it. There is some damage/dings to the lacquer, not sure how severe as I haven't seen the guitar in person but apparently there is no structural damage, just cosmetic. Frets are in good condition, seller has fitted a new bone nut and pick-guard and it comes with a case if that helps. However, the seller believes a previous owner has sanded down the bridge and saddle, but that the action is currently very good after a recent setup. The bridge was also painted, maybe in an attempt to improve the appearance?

I have read around the forum that the whole shaving thing is generally not very good, but it also seems to be quite common based on experience here so is it something that I should be very worried about? I would prefer not to spend a load of money on a neck reset but if the action is as good as the seller suggests, that maybe won't be be necessary for a while. My experience with old guitars is limited so if I'm simplifying this please let me know. Any advise on whether this is worth pursuing would be greatly appreciated, as I may have the opportunity to see it this weekend.

Unfortunately there are no pictures of the bridge/saddle, but I have some of the cosmetic damage:

https://image.ibb.co/bBcdNd/D352.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/cVgYoJ/D351.jpg
 

gjmalcyon

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I really like my D-35 - no-nonsense mahogany dreadnought that delivers the goods.

See this link for how to check the neck angle.

If the bridge and saddle have been lowered, then the guitar may have a limited life span: If the neck continues to move the next action would be neck reset, which can be expensive. That second picture almost looks like the guitar had been varnished with a brush. If so, that's not a good idea.

And welcome - stick around, it's a nice place.
 

sailingshoes72

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Welcome to the LTG Forum.

I really can't see enough from the photos to make a recommendation about this guitar. But, definitely check out the link that "gj" listed above. This procedure can reveal a lot about the health of a guitar's neck angle. One of our members has also pointed out that shaving a bridge can change the tone of an instrument by reducing the mass of the bridge. As always, being able to hold a guitar in your hands and play it is the best test! And don't feel like you have to buy the guitar because you travelled a distance to check it out.

Good Luck in your search for a Guild acoustic guitar! :encouragement:
 

killdeer43

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WELCOME TO LTG! :applouse:
The D35 was my first Guild and the one I have now is from the same year as the first...goes around and comes around, and I'm enjoying this one more than the first.

Keep us posted,
Joe
 

Cougar

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....However, the seller believes a previous owner has sanded down the bridge and saddle, but that the action is currently very good after a recent setup.....

You can have good action, but the break angle of the strings over the saddle will be "flatter" - in proportion to how much the saddle was shaved. This can sap the tone. A temporary fix that costs a lot less than a neck reset is ramping the peg holes, which can restore some of the break angle - and some of the tone.

I'd think about spending a little more for a somewhat newer Guild that's in very good to excellent condition, but that's just me.... :cat:
 

wileypickett

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I've heard that reducing the mass of the bridge too much can negatively affect the tone, but is this true or anecdotal? It seems like making the top lighter would help the sound, though obviously a too-heavily sanded bridge will at some point compromise the structural integrity of the guitar.

But for that price I'd at least check it out.
 

Stuball48

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Yep, for $400, it is worth a "look see and look hear." And very hard to notice the "little" things on your first Guild purchase. Lots of mahogany lovers and I "need" one to complete my basic tonewoods.
 

richardp69

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The D 35 is a really nice sounding, no frills model. I've had several and wish I would have kept one of them. I'll pick one up again at some point.

I'm one of the lucky ones (or unlucky depending upon your viewpoint). I'm not a great player and spend nearly all my time on the 1st 5 or so frets. Consequently, what some feel is unacceptable string height/action is usually just fine for me. However, if the neck is way out of whack it wouldn't be good for anyone I wouldn't think.

I've had a bridge shaved before in lieu of a neck reset (on lower valued guitars) and it's worked out just fine. At some point though you do lose the structural integrity of the bridge.
 

ProjectileBeaver

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Thanks all, glad to be here! I appreciate the link, that should help clear things up if/when I get to see it. I'm currently waiting for the seller to get back to me about coming over. I was quite happy to find something in not-too-good condition cosmetically as odd as that sounds, simply because I don't think I can afford a super clean model at this point. But if neck resets cost as much as I've heard for Guilds then I might be out of luck this time.
 

fronobulax

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But if neck resets cost as much as I've heard for Guilds then I might be out of luck this time.

For the record, people have reported prices of $400-$800 for neck rests, across most markets and regardless of brand. Whether a particular luthier charges more for a Guild has much to do with that individual's skill, experience and how badly they want the job. Indeed if someone was going to charge me more because it was a Guild, I'd seek out a second quote.
 

adorshki

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I've heard that reducing the mass of the bridge too much can negatively affect the tone, but is this true or anecdotal?
It's true. Bridge mass helps move the top. But it's not a precise mathematical function, like most guitar "functions" there's a range of acceptable specs.
There was even speculation at one point that perhaps NH was installing "THICK" bridges to enable shaving to help postpone the need for neck reset.


It seems like making the top lighter would help the sound,
Right, but even though the bridge is physically joined to the top, they're 2 different components with different functions. Bridge is there as anchor point for saddle and strings and energy transmission medium to bridge plate and thus the whole top.
All the top has to do is move.
:friendly_wink:
though obviously a too-heavily sanded bridge will at some point compromise the structural integrity of the guitar.
Well, primarily the bridge itself: if it's too thin it's more prone to cracking across the saddle slot.
 

adorshki

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But if neck resets cost as much as I've heard for Guilds then I might be out of luck this time.
A lot depends on geographic region and "how much reset" you're getting.
Simply steaming off and regluing neck is the bare bones minimum, which requires cutting through the finish at the heel since Guild finished over the neck joint.
So do you want them to do the finish touch-up afterward?
And will the fretboard need planeing because it's become bit out of true after years of being bent where it extends over the top? (If so, the frets need to be R&R'd) (Fret job is about $2-300.00 including planning and set up afterward)
And let's not forget if that bridge needs replacement, it could get a little hard to find a "good" one, although the first place I'd check is our own member Hansmoust.
So out here in CA with high cost of living tossed in besides, $1200.00 for a COMPLETE job including everything described above isn't a surprise.
As Frono mentioned $800 might cover it in other places.
But now you know what to ask somebody who's quoting the job.
And being familiar with 'em and still willing to work on 'em can be a big plus.
And they do have a somewhat justified reputation for being hard to beak loose, for a variety of reasons, primarily the massive surface area that's glued because of Guilds' neck joining technique, and the need to cut the finish, and even the fact the the gluepot itself was simply re-filled and never really cleaned so it got contaminated with grit over time...LOL! (but true story, first related here by noted luthier Flip Scipio who actually worked in Westerly in the early '80's IIRC the date correctly.)
But a '73 D35's prime target for all the "difficult" issues, sorry to say, but still we've seen stories about necks popping off easily, no problem, too.
The real issue is that if flunks the neck alignment test then it's probably really a losing proposition for a new owner to invest in a reset, but it could be justified for a lot of us who are original owners and/or have a heavy sentimental attachment to an instrument.
I got a suspicion you could do better with a little patience, specially after the comment about being varnished with a paintbrush.
PS: Just noticed what looks like a crack across the side in the 2nd picture.
Let's just say you can get a pretty clean D35 with true cosmetic damage only for the same $400.00 if you hold out, maybe even one (or something equally appealing, like a D25 or D40 ) needing no work at all at around $600.00, from reports I've seen here.
 
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Br1ck

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A concern to me is that the late 70s is a heavier build than an early 70s, and I prefer the lighter build. Adorshki is spot on as to probable cost in our area. I bought a
'70 D 35 for $250 twenty years ago needing a lot of work. I finally got it fixed two years ago. Hans Moust had a bridge to replace the shaved one. The neck was reset, bridge replaced, finger board planed, new frets installed, new nut cut, and the neck sprayed due to all finish being sanded off. The NOS Brazilian rosewood bridge was $100, the rest cost $1100. The work was done by a guy who was a Guild authorized repair shop for over thirty years, so he'd worked on a lot of them.
 

Slinky

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You can have good action, but the break angle of the strings over the saddle will be "flatter" - in proportion to how much the saddle was shaved. This can sap the tone. A temporary fix that costs a lot less than a neck reset is ramping the peg holes, which can restore some of the break angle - and some of the tone.

I'd think about spending a little more for a somewhat newer Guild that's in very good to excellent condition, but that's just me.... :cat:

I agree, this guitar may be a good player. But, there are a lot of older a Guilds out there at a good price.
 

ProjectileBeaver

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I decided to leave it this time around, as it was pretty far away and I wouldn't really have considered posting it without knowing more about its condition. I think I'm going to take the advice given here and save a little more money away for one with less work needed, hopefully somewhere nearby so its easier to view as well! Thanks for the help everyone, I hope to be posting again soon enough with a successful purchase!
 

fronobulax

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I hope to be posting again soon enough with a successful purchase!

I am afraid you have misunderstood the community. We want you to post before you decide on a model and then post as you search. We love helping other people find Guilds and spend their money on them.
 

dreadnut

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Yeah, what Frono said! We love enabling other people to spend their money on Guilds.
 

sailingshoes72

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ProjectileBeaver

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I am afraid you have misunderstood the community. We want you to post before you decide on a model and then post as you search. We love helping other people find Guilds and spend their money on them.

Fair enough, that works for me :smile-new: I'll be sure to post again soon when I've got a better budget to play with.
 

GuildFS4612CE

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Welcome and good luck in your search.

And a reminder to the rest of our community here...LaserVoodoo is across the pond...and won't have the luxury of as many to choose from as in the States...particularly with the CITES restrictions...the prices will be different and likely higher.

Some of our overseas members may be able to assist.
 
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