Callaham Bigsby upgrades for Newark St. Guild Vibrato

txbumper57

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Not sure if it would work on the Newark Street Vibrato as it states in the ad that it is not for use on Licensed or import style Bigsby vibratos and the Guild Newark Street model is a Licensed import model. I know they work great on the American made Guild Bigsby models but I would have to see some specs before I would say it was good on an import version.

TX
 

Walter Broes

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Won't work with the vibratos on Newark St Guilds, those are licensed Asian made ones with metric sizes.

Will work with older US made Guild Bigsbies.
 

guitarslinger

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I don't mind changing the strings on a guitar with a Bigsby. I generally like Callahan stuff even if it seems a bit overpriced. Nevertheless, it's a solution without a problem for me.
 

Mr. Lumbergh

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Has anyone tried this to see if it works?

I haven't, but one of the guys over on Gretsch-Talk did. They needed to grind the Bigs a little where it installs to get it to fit.
I'm with @guitarslinger; bend the ball end of the string into an arc with needlenose pliers, and it'll stay. It's really no more difficult than changing strings on a Strat.
 

Walter Broes

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I don't mind changing the strings on a guitar with a Bigsby. I generally like Callahan stuff even if it seems a bit overpriced. Nevertheless, it's a solution without a problem for me.

I agree - I have one guitar with the drilled-through Callaham bar on it, and I don't really think it's an improvement. I've changed strings on a Bigsby equipped guitar SO many times I don't even think about it.
 

txbumper57

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I thought about getting some of these for my Guildsby Equipped guitars but I am fine with just bending the ball end with a pair of Needle Nose pliers.

I will say that I recently purchased a few Callaham Roller tension bars for the B7 style Guildsby I have on my American SF4 and SF5. Let me just say that the design with the grooves for the strings is a great Idea but a poor execution on the production. The grooves do keep the strings in place but the "roller" is one piece of solid material with no bushings to allow it to "Roll". The original Tension bar is a Hollow tube with bushings on each end that allow it rotate freely between the bigsby arms. In order to get the Callaham piece to "Roll" properly like the original tension bar without the grooves you have to take a fair bit of material off of the Bigsby arms and even then it wants to bind a bit. It acts more like a solid piece Gretsch "Rocker Bridge" than the Roller it should be which causes the strings to want to grab the grooves. Needless to say I am not that impressed with it, especially for right at $50 shipped and all the fuss of installing it. Now if they would have designed it like the original piece which is a hollow tube with bushings and then put grooves in it for the strings it would have been an Awesome addition but unfortunately they didn't.

TX
 
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Sounds like the ugly Vibramate is my only option if I want faster, easier string changes.
 

Walter Broes

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Nah, you don't need it. change strings a few times, and you'll get the hang of it fast enough. put a bend in the string (I never used pliers ever, no need) at the ball end side before you put it on the pin, and keep tension on the string until you're tuning it up. If it's too frustrating, put a pencil eraser or a little sponge under the ball end once you have it on the pin, and it's locked in there until you've tuned it up.
It's not rocket science.
 

Walter Broes

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Same issues. I don't see the point of that bracket though. Never ever felt the need to rotate an arm further than a regular Bigsby allows.

If you want to put a US made Bigsby on a Korean Starfire, ideally, you'd get a US made Guild Bigsby. It's almost exactly the same as a Bigsby B6, but the standard stock Bigsby-branded B6's hinge is too long for the SF's shallow body. If you look around some, you might find a regular modern (USA) production B6 that was made for some reissue Gretsches that has the smaller triangular Gretsch hinge plate, that would fit a SF.

I'd just give the stock Bigsby that comes on your guitar a chance. thousands of people have used Bigsbies the way they came since the mid 50's. Some aspects like changing strings take some getting used to, but all in all, it's a proved design that works great in its stock form.
 
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I’m clearly in the minority, but I like the Callahan String-Thru so much, I installed it in both my Guild X160 Rockabilly and my Gretsch 6120, along with locking GROVER tuners on both. String changes are easier and faster than ever! I’ve had Bigsby-equipped guitars since the 70s and have always dreaded string changes! Just a royal PITA! Not any more!
 
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I’m clearly in the minority, but I like the Callahan String-Thru so much, I installed it in both my Guild X160 Rockabilly and my Gretsch 6120, along with locking GROVER tuners on both. String changes are easier and faster than ever! I’ve had Bigsby-equipped guitars since the 70s and have always dreaded string changes! Just a royal PITA! Not any more!

I agree. Sounds like need a USA Guildsby or a Gretsch B6 if I want the string through option.
 

Walter Broes

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Or a handy friend with some tools. You can pull the pins and drill through the bar on any Bigsby, plenty of folks have.
 

Mark WW

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Nah, you don't need it. change strings a few times, and you'll get the hang of it fast enough. put a bend in the string (I never used pliers ever, no need) at the ball end side before you put it on the pin, and keep tension on the string until you're tuning it up. If it's too frustrating, put a pencil eraser or a little sponge under the ball end once you have it on the pin, and it's locked in there until you've tuned it up.
It's not rocket science.

Another trick-when you pull the string up the neck (keep it firm) and clamp it with a capo until you get the string wrapped on the tuner stud. Also if you pull the pins and drill through make sure you counter sink the holes to provide a reduced friction surface point.
 
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