NGD...(no guild content) I need advice

Antney

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
510
Reaction score
176
I was given a 1975ish Gibson J45 Deluxe. It's in bad shape...needs a neck reset, the binding is COMPLETELY dried and partially missing, a few top cracks, dry as I've ever seen a guitar. It's in awful shape...but has some pretty little mojo that's cute to look at and nice to hold and play.

Does anyone know anything about these guitars (spruce top, hog sides and backs)...squared shoulder, cherry burst. Is this worth putting the dough into? I don't know a luthier in the Boston area who I might even bring it to for evaluation.

ugh....
 

AcornHouse

Venerated Member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
10,213
Reaction score
7,210
Location
Bidwell, OH
Guild Total
21
In good,to,excellent shape it would be worth around $1200-1500. Repaired, who knows. Is the cost of the repairs worth it to you. They are a standard dread.
 

Cougar

Enlightened Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2015
Messages
5,320
Reaction score
3,015
Location
North Idaho
Guild Total
5
Does anyone know anything about these guitars....

Not really. I've heard early 70s were not good years for Gibson. 1975 might be OK. I think Chris's estimate is about right.
 

bobouz

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
2,228
Reaction score
1,827
Gibsons from this era are not worth a lot. Essentially, they are the least desirable Gibson acoustics ever produced.

Not to say there weren't a few good ones that would slip through every now & then. I had an early '70s Heritage Custom & Dove back in the day, and they were both quite nice.

But with the repairs you're looking at, I would only pursue it if the instrument has some sentimental value, and you intend to keep it. If you're thinking of selling it to make a profit after the repairs - don't bother.
 

gilded

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2007
Messages
3,479
Reaction score
197
Location
texas
Antney,

Here are some of the usual acoustic guitar problems from the Norlin era of Gibson:

Thin top wood, bizarre double-X bracing that kills tone and volume, plastic adjustable bridges that most people replace with wooden substitutes, huge bridge plates, and Big bracing. I forgot thin necks and a weird way of drying the glue with UV lighting that leaves shadows of the bracing on the top.

Also, since around '55, no scalloped bracing and since '59, the main X brace on the top is not really an X brace but a single long brace with two short braces on either side. This arrangement actually looks like a real, complete x-brace, because you can't really see the problem unless you remove the cloth patch that covers up the intersection of all of the main faux X-bracing. Really.

The first time I bought a '70s Gibson flat-top guitar with the double X-bracing, the guitar sounded stuffy with no volume, but also had absolutely dead, used-up strings on it. I took it home, changed the strings and.... it sounded exactly the same.

You can pull the back and change the bracing but you're still gonna have a thin top. There isn't a good answer on these guitars.
All roads lead to 'bleh.'

By the way, I'm not a Gibson hater by any means. I currently own two 335s and an ES175 and have been playing Les Pauls since the '70s. It's not about knocking Gibsons, it's about spending a lot of money on a guitar that will never sound great, which is what I call Heart Break!

Good luck, Harry/gilded
 

fronobulax

Bassist, GAD and the Hot Mess Mods
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
24,708
Reaction score
8,836
Location
Central Virginia, USA
Guild Total
5
Several people have reported that guitars that seem to be a disaster because they have dried out have improved with humidification. You might try humidification for several weeks before you assess the potential investment in repairs.
 

bobouz

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
2,228
Reaction score
1,827
Here are some of the usual acoustic guitar problems from the Norlin era of Gibson:

plastic adjustable bridges that most people replace with wooden substitutes. I forgot thin necks....
Actually, the plastic bridge set up was pre-Norlin, from approx '63 to '66. And these are not necessarily a bad thing if they are structurally intact. Some folks, including myself, really like the metallic overtones produced by the adjustable hardware, which in essence creates sort of a mini-arch-top-bridge scenario.

The thin necks were also pre-Norlin, starting in mid '65, and pretty much gone by the end of '69. These had a 1-9/16" width at the nut. Some are quite playable if there is adequate depth to the overall neck profile, but others can be rather difficult if the neck profile is shallow.

Build quality started to fall incrementally in the late '60s after Ted McCarty left Gibson in '66. Norlin took control at the beginning of 1970, and instituted many construction changes (such as the double-X bracing referred to above) that produced a significantly inferior product.

If your guitar were mine, I'd try go get it playable with a minimal investment, and enjoy it at that level.
 
Last edited:

Antney

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
510
Reaction score
176
Thanks everyone. All good advice. I'm estimating repairs at $800 to bring the guitar to a $400 retail value. As Frono (thank you) suggested I've put "duraflame" back in the case with some good hydration devices for a few weeks. At that point I'll clean him up, adjust as I can and put some new strings on. I'll be content having a 7 fretter if that's all he is. I must say the aged cherry burst is very cool. Stay tuned.

Two quick questions

1. I've slackened the strings...yes or no?

2. Is it wise to lubricate the truss rod...if so with what?
 

bobouz

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
2,228
Reaction score
1,827
Two quick questions
1. I've slackened the strings...yes or no?
2. Is it wise to lubricate the truss rod...if so with what?

#1 - A good idea if there are structural issues. Even after initiating whatever fixes you decide to implement, you can always detune by a half or full step if you like the sound & intonation holds true.

#2 - Only use a tiny bit of WD-40 to free the nut if it is stuck & does not easily turn. Freeing the nut so that it functions would be the only reason to use any lube at all, as the rod does not turn. And keep the lube off of the surrounding wood > WD-40 lube sticks work well for this (as opposed to a spray can).
 

Antney

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2017
Messages
510
Reaction score
176
here he is...."duraflame"

OI5cS9w.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Last edited:

Grassdog

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
550
Reaction score
118
Location
Cincinnati, OH
I think you're taking the right approach with proper humidification and minimal monetary investment at this point. Notwithstanding all the comments about the less than ideal Gibson era she comes from (all of which are valid) you might end up bonding with this girl. I know it sounds crazy, but maybe this guitar became yours for a reason and put in the right hands she might take on a new life.
 

mike1100

Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2018
Messages
135
Reaction score
34
I don't know a luthier in the Boston area who I might even bring it to for evaluation

Here's what I would do if in your shoes. First determine if this is a guitar you would want to keep, provided it all works out. Start with listening to a few videos that have J45s in them. Then go play a few J45s to get better feel for their "vibe". Some folks really like that J45 "thump."

My 2 cents. You need to find a decent luthier anyway. Use this as an excuse to do some homework and find one. Network with everyone you know in the area that plays. Go to open mic events and BS with folks to get info on luthiers they like. Finally, if you have some contacts and you really dig the J45 thing, then get an estimate. Estimates shouldn't cost you anything.

There are a lot of abused guitars out there in need of TLC. I try to only throw money at ones I want to keep, otherwise I pass those gits on to someone else who has a passion for that make / model.

Good luck!
 

Bill Ashton

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2006
Messages
4,387
Reaction score
989
Location
North Central Massachusetts
Guild Total
4
I am a real sucker for a sunburst, and that one looks like its somewhere between a tobacco and cherry sunburst...very nice...if you like the neck profile, not saying I would put a ton of money in her, but would seriously consider what she needs to play your style nice...different guitar, another voice.

There is an excellent luthier in North Adams...yeah, I know, 2 1/2 hours from Boston...but he is also a Guild Authorized Service Center, always has been. CANNOT remember the name, but worth looking after... Sauve Guitars, maybe?
 
Last edited:
Top