Ngd 1971 d-25 br

Sands

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I purchased a one owner 1971 Guild D-25, OHSC, the other day. I’ll update the post tomorrow so the pics show rather than links. It’s had some fretwork and a neck reset. It plays and sounds incredible. Running EB Earth light silks.

I replaced the bridge pins with bone, but they (and originals?) are loose (not snug) which is a bit concerning. (Had to keep pushing them down while restringing, so I don’t know what to do about that.)

Being a 71 I don’t know if it’s got the Brazilian or Indian RW. Guessing the latter.

The pick guard is shrinking / buldging but not
Lifting or cracking. Thinking about replacing PG with RW.

Seems to possibly have had some bridge work done, there is a finish line where the bridge doesn’t line up to it on the back side, so possibly a replacement or finish damage from some unknown substance that lingered near bridge.(?)

Some brace work was done inside.

It was played in the 80s / 90s mostly. Then the owner moved to other instruments. I got a signed statement indicating seller was the original owner and a pic with him holding the guitar in the 80s. May not hold up in court but I believe this man.

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beecee

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Very nice.

You'll get a ton of intel here.

Just got one myself and it's already climbing up the heap
 

beecee

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It's your guitar but you may want to reconsider replacing that original pg. Looks age appropriate I like to say.

The top is probably mahogany, not rw btw.
 

Rayk

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Great score ! Are the wiggling in the holes without strings in ?
Improper seating of the strings over time which this guitar has can wear away the bridge plate . The string being set to far in cuts like a saw into the bridge plate widening a hole alllowing the ball to start pulling up on the pin instead of locking against the underside of the plate .

Next string change poke you cell phone and snap a pic . If it’s just a worn out pin socket then get some calipers , I’d first measure the diameter of the pin holes on the bridge itself then measure the pin just under the collar see how close they are .

If the bridge plate is good go to Bob Collsi at Guitarsaddles.com which you might know already lol and either size up or ask him to s custom size to fit your guitar .

Also on Bobs site he tells you how to measure your pin to get the pins tapper .

Now forgive me I know most already know this but always good for new comers to read :)

http://guitarsaddles.com
 

Sands

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Great score ! Are the wiggling in the holes without strings in ?
Improper seating of the strings over time which this guitar has can wear away the bridge plate . The string being set to far in cuts like a saw into the bridge plate widening a hole alllowing the ball to start pulling up on the pin instead of locking against the underside of the plate .

Next string change poke you cell phone and snap a pic . If it’s just a worn out pin socket then get some calipers , I’d first measure the diameter of the pin holes on the bridge itself then measure the pin just under the collar see how close they are .

If the bridge plate is good go to Bob Collsi at Guitarsaddles.com which you might know already lol and either size up or ask him to s custom size to fit your guitar .

Also on Bobs site he tells you how to measure your pin to get the pins tapper .

Now forgive me I know most already know this but always good for new comers to read :)

http://guitarsaddles.com

Thank you for sharing this info. I don't recall any pin wiggle, but didn't test for it. They just dropped flush and I thought, that's different and probably not great. I'll probably check it out next weekend.
 

Sands

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It's your guitar but you may want to reconsider replacing that original pg. Looks age appropriate I like to say.

The top is probably mahogany, not rw btw.

Thank you beecee. Your comments are appreciated. My concern is the shrinkage of the pickguard is pulling at the Mahogany top. I suspect a RW would not. No wood would, is my theory. Now this may be unnecessary concern, so I'll put it out there for yours and others thoughts. I do think wood could look good as a PG, on this old guitar, but I am concerned that it may not. I plan to craft my own, stained dark.

There is no way that PG can last another 50 years. Right? What are the best options to address this? Pull it, reglue? Pull it, cut a new, replace? Hide glue of course. Maybe that's another thread. Thanks again!
 

Rayk

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Thank you for sharing this info. I don't recall any pin wiggle, but didn't test for it. They just dropped flush and I thought, that's different and probably not great. I'll probably check it out next weekend.

You can try taking said string out as a test and reinsert it make sure the ball is just under the bridge plate , I try make sure the ball runs the same direction as the string not sideways , put the pin back in give a tug to make sure the ball seats then see if does the same thing .

If you take a few strings off slip your phone in and take a pic then you can see how the strings are sitting in regards to the pins and plate 😁

The windings at the string end can catch the bottom of the pin if there in to deep and pull the pin up also if the guitar was strung with 54’s and now your using 52’s that wear can add to the looseness of the pins , it can all be taking care easily enough . No worries .
 
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txbumper57

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I am sure with all this D25 action lately that Westerly Wood will be along soon to comment. I know awhile back he went through the pickguard replacement quest that you are debating on his 70's D25BR. I am sure he has some valuable insights for someone considering traveling down that same road.

TX
 

Neal

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My '71 D-25BR's top is much darker, stained the same color as the back and sides.

And it has a Brazilian rosewood fretboard and bridge.
 

mavuser

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nice looking 71 BR. I currently own a 70 and a 72.

the bridge is either original and has been removed and re-glued, or it is a "pin hole matching" Guild replacement bridge. It may be the Guild replacement, which was a touch smaller than the Guild original- revealing the removed finish, instead of a touch larger than the Guild original- which would conceal that finish/work area. The important thing is the pin holes matched and it is a Guild bridge. Again, it could also actually be the original Guild bridge that has been removed and re-glued, and that surrounding finish area is just a result of that work. Either way, that all looks golden for this Guild...

as does the pickguard- just leave it alone if it is bulging/shrinking that is standard for sure. if it begins to separate from the top of the guitar- simply have that professionally removed and reglued (not so different than a bridge job)- in its wavy/deformed state. that is standard for these and basically any Guild. do not remove/replace the original beautiful turtle shell full size Guild pick guard!

congrats and enjoy! welcome to the club!
 
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Bonneville88

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Congrats on a gorgeous D25, great score! I don't think I'd replace the pick guard, it
looks exactly right on the guitar - if it can be reglued that's the way to go.
 

mavuser

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i edited my above post after re-reading the op on some hot coffee...

yeah, just leave the pick guard alone, thats how they all are!
 

Sands

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nice looking 71 BR. I currently own a 70 and a 72.

the bridge is either original and has been removed and re-glued, or it is a "pin hole matching" Guild replacement bridge. It may be the Guild replacement, which was a touch smaller than the Guild original- revealing the removed finish, instead of a touch larger than the Guild original- which would conceal that finish/work area. The important thing is the pin holes matched and it is a Guild bridge. Again, it could also actually be the original Guild bridge that has been removed and re-glued, and that surrounding finish area is just a result of that work. Either way, that all looks golden for this Guild...

as does the pickguard- just leave it alone if it is bulging/shrinking that is standard for sure. if it begins to separate from the top of the guitar- simply have that professionally removed and reglued (not so different than a bridge job)- in its wavy/deformed state. that is standard for these and basically any Guild. do not remove/replace the original beautiful turtle shell full size Guild pick guard!

congrats and enjoy! welcome to the club!

Thank you very much for the feedback. I’m listening. Very valid.
 

Sands

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So it seems a PG replacement is out. I can fix, if necessary, down the road.

What is the gold Guild headstock lettering? A decal with Nitrocellulous over it?

What are the thoughts on custom MOP / Abalone inlays an old guitar like this? I’m thinking a near approximation of a std Guild design. Maybe in a gold color and shape that would go with the lettering, rather than MOP.
 
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mavuser

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Thank you very much for the feedback. I’m listening. Very valid.

No problem, essentially this information is from Hans Moust who helped me find an original Guild replacement bridge with matching pin holes for one of my guitars. Not to say I have quoted him word for word (I would not want to mis-speak on his behalf!)

Hans is the author of The Guild Guitar Book and the ultimate resource for all things Guild. He is incredibly generous with his time and sharing of information, and in some cases a lot more than information (more like the entire story). "Hans Moust...he wrote the book!"
 

mavuser

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So it seems a PG replacement is out. I can fix, if necessary, down the road.

What is the gold Guild headstock lettering? A decal with Nitrocellulous over it?

What are the thoughts on custom MOP / Abalone inlays an old guitar like this? I’m thinking a near approximation of a std Guild design. Maybe in a gold color and shape that would go with the lettering, rather than MOP.

you want to keep it all original- no mods or changes at all whatsoever (other than an acoustic/electric pickup which is fine).
these are valuable, especially a clean one w case/candy one owner etc. just leave it alone and play it. or sell it the way it is if not for u. smart to ask us all first, please, have no shame and hold nothing back. there are no stupid questions here (other than the ones you dont ask...). this is a sleeper dread for *any brand or vintage guitar, not just Guild...and that cat is definitely creeping out of the bag. You would regret messing with it both sooner and later!
 

Westerly Wood

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It’s like my 71 Br is looking in a mirror. Congrats!

Re the PG, I had exact same issue. But I let it ride till it just fell off one day while playing outside on a Texas summer day. I forget who I bought replacement pg from, it was years ago. The first pg I bought was too small. Be careful with that. Get the larger pg. while serviceable, I am not a fan of the new pg. it is too thick. If you can find an original, maybe Hans has a few lying around he can sell, that would be ideal.

These guitars are incredibly dependable and just don’t quit. I like phosphor bronze strings but so subjective. I just think the alloy brings out the inherent meanness in this dread. Gritty, bold, cuts thru mix great. As well, good fingerpicking dread due to dark mellowness of hog top.

I have a K&K mini in mine. Passive pup. In mix, sounds way better than this other guitar I own, which is 10x the Br’s cost. 😀

I will post my serial number later today to see how close in production mine is to your and becee’s.

Lastly, I paid $500 for mine like 6 years ago but have sunk about $700 into it. Probably more. It’s just such a good foundational dreadnought guitar that I would rather build upon it than buy another.

Oh, and I have tried to sell it several times too, to be fair, and thankfully failed miserably. Happy for ya!
 
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