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Thread: Cleaning your Guild acoustic

  1. #1

    Cleaning your Guild acoustic

    Would someone point me to a thread giving instructions on cleaning my Guild acoustic? I have googled the topic but find no concentrated discussion on cleaning a Guild and we all know Guilds are not just an ordinary acoustic.
    If there is no such thread, I would appreciate how you clean yours. Thank you
    1962 Epiphone Century Cherry Hollow Body Arch Top E422T
    1993 Guild DV52 NT
    2003 Epiphone Masterbilt AJ500 MANNH

  2. #2
    Whatever you do don't use a polish with silicone in it. The silicone will get into the pores of the nitro and penetrate the wood making future repairs and cleaning almost impossible. For cleaning and polishing the High Gloss finished areas I use Virtuoso Guitar Cleaner first and then The Virtuoso Guitar Polish. Both are specifically made for Nitro finished high end acoustics and instruments and are Silicone free. A little bit goes a long way so the two bottles last a really long time if you are not cleaning and polishing 20 guitars at a time. I apply them with microfiber applicator pads like you would get from the auto parts store and then buff clean with an actual microfiber cloth. You can find a set of the cleaner and polish for around $20 on Ebay or Reverb. I get my applicators and Microfiber towels from Amazon or Autozone depending on how much of a hurry I am in.

    I'll let others weigh in on fretboard/bridge cleaning and preservation as it seems everyone does that a little bit different. Hope this helps.

    TX
    Last edited by txbumper57; 11-22-2017 at 07:02 PM.
    Guilds
    Hoboken-1960 X175, 1961 SF-II
    Westerly-1971 F612, 1976 G41, 2000 SF-V, 1984 S284, 1993 JF100-NT-CRV
    Nashville C.S. SFIV-3 P90 w/Trem
    Corona-2003 Fleming F47-Brz RW, 2003 D55 50th Ann. Brz RW#10 of 50, 2003 X160 R.B., 2003 SF-III-90
    Conn-2011 GSR D50 Coco, 2013 R30S, 2013 Orph 12 Fret Slope, 2013 Orph Jumbo, 2014 Orph Burst 000-12 Fret 12 String S.H. RW, 2012 F50-DTAR, 2012 F50R Burst, 2012 F50R DTAR, 2013 F512 Burst, 2014 F512-DTAR, 2014 D55-RS

    Amps
    70 T-bird 2x12
    93 Sequoia

  3. #3
    TX:
    Exactly, what I am looking for. Mine is DV52 NT.
    1962 Epiphone Century Cherry Hollow Body Arch Top E422T
    1993 Guild DV52 NT
    2003 Epiphone Masterbilt AJ500 MANNH

  4. #4
    Senior Member davismanLV's Avatar
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    Stu, is it a gloss finish?
    Tom in Vegas

    Use the good china. Life itself is the special occasion.

    Guild D65s, 1994
    Guild DV72, 1994
    Taylor GC8, 2011
    Breedlove Oregon Concert Rogue 4/12/2016
    Washburn EA-20 "Festival Series", 1995

  5. #5
    If it is a gloss finish I would go with the Virtuoso. If it is a satin finish I would wait and inquire about that specifically as I have never used it on a satin nitro finish before.

    TX
    Guilds
    Hoboken-1960 X175, 1961 SF-II
    Westerly-1971 F612, 1976 G41, 2000 SF-V, 1984 S284, 1993 JF100-NT-CRV
    Nashville C.S. SFIV-3 P90 w/Trem
    Corona-2003 Fleming F47-Brz RW, 2003 D55 50th Ann. Brz RW#10 of 50, 2003 X160 R.B., 2003 SF-III-90
    Conn-2011 GSR D50 Coco, 2013 R30S, 2013 Orph 12 Fret Slope, 2013 Orph Jumbo, 2014 Orph Burst 000-12 Fret 12 String S.H. RW, 2012 F50-DTAR, 2012 F50R Burst, 2012 F50R DTAR, 2013 F512 Burst, 2014 F512-DTAR, 2014 D55-RS

    Amps
    70 T-bird 2x12
    93 Sequoia

  6. #6
    Senior Member davismanLV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    U.S.A. : Nevada : Las Vegas
    Posts
    9,207
    Here's a link to an older thread about basically what you're asking about. Lot's of great opinions HERE!!
    Tom in Vegas

    Use the good china. Life itself is the special occasion.

    Guild D65s, 1994
    Guild DV72, 1994
    Taylor GC8, 2011
    Breedlove Oregon Concert Rogue 4/12/2016
    Washburn EA-20 "Festival Series", 1995

  7. #7
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    20,308
    Quote Originally Posted by txbumper57 View Post
    Whatever you do don't use a polish with silicone in it. The silicone will get into the pores of the nitro and penetrate the wood making future repairs and cleaning almost impossible. TX
    TX with all due respect that's the first I ever heard of "pores" in gloss NCL finishes.
    I agree with the basic concept of avoiding silicone contamination but in past it was about the potential for those polishes to penetrate finish cracks, even those small enough to be invisible to the naked eye.
    Are we actually in agreement and just using different terms?
    Last edited by adorshki; 11-22-2017 at 08:10 PM.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  8. #8
    Nah, what you want to do, see, is go down to the car wash where they got them, what d'ya call 'em, pressurized type washers, then you can get all that there gunk good and cleaned out.
    Chris
    ---
    '56 A-50, '57 CE-100, '60 X-150, '61 M-20, '62 F-20, '64 S-50 Jetstar, '64 Mark II, '65 SFIV, '71 S-90, '75 F-112, '75 Mark IVp, '81 M-80,
    '82 S-275, '86 T-250, '88 Detonator, '93 X-500, '97 Bluesbird, '99 F-30, '16 NS S-200 Thunderbird
    '54 Masteramp, '60 99j, '63 200-S, '66 Thunderbass, '69 Thunderstar, '92 G-500
    Acorn House
    '08 Parlor, '10 Butternut Deuce, '13 Rounder, '14 Kulakeiki

    '94 G&L Legacy
    '03 Elder Lute
    ---
    http://acornhouseworkshop.com/

  9. #9
    you clean your Guild acoustic?

    throughout the year I will hand push the dust off the body that gathers as it hangs out in open air. Tucson is brutal with the dust and sand...

    for the most part, my D25 Br is self-cleaning. I mean after 46 years, it ought to know.
    Wood

    1971 D25 Br--ol' Flattop
    https://soundcloud.com/woody-adams/sets/not-metal

    "i think that you are the only one i know of that considers the 1973-1974 mahogany top/arch back D-25 a "holy grail" guitar"--mav

    "always confront the load facing it directly"--nuuska

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by adorshki View Post
    TX with all due respect that's the first I ever heard of "pores" in gloss NCL finishes.
    I agree with the basic concept of avoiding silicone contamination but in past it was about the potential for those polishes to penetrate finish cracks, even those small enough to be invisible to the naked eye.
    Are we actually in agreement and just using different terms?
    You can call it what you want and I'll call it what I want, LOL. Fact of the matter is if you use silicone on a Nitro Finish and then sand that area of finish to apply another coat of nitro on the same spot, the Silicone that penetrated the first layer will prevent proper adhesion between that and the next layer of Nitro in my experience. Regardless of whether Nitro has "pores" that the silicone penetrates or it adheres itself to the nooks and crannies of the nitro finish the bottom line is that Silicone contamination stays in the area it was used and is almost impossible to get rid of once it is there. That was all I was getting at.

    TX
    Guilds
    Hoboken-1960 X175, 1961 SF-II
    Westerly-1971 F612, 1976 G41, 2000 SF-V, 1984 S284, 1993 JF100-NT-CRV
    Nashville C.S. SFIV-3 P90 w/Trem
    Corona-2003 Fleming F47-Brz RW, 2003 D55 50th Ann. Brz RW#10 of 50, 2003 X160 R.B., 2003 SF-III-90
    Conn-2011 GSR D50 Coco, 2013 R30S, 2013 Orph 12 Fret Slope, 2013 Orph Jumbo, 2014 Orph Burst 000-12 Fret 12 String S.H. RW, 2012 F50-DTAR, 2012 F50R Burst, 2012 F50R DTAR, 2013 F512 Burst, 2014 F512-DTAR, 2014 D55-RS

    Amps
    70 T-bird 2x12
    93 Sequoia

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