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Thread: F30 HR came and goes back .

  1. #1

    F30 HR came and goes back .

    Ok yeah so here we go again .
    Lots about this guitar I did not know .
    Fun facts , lower bout 15 did not measure the upper and as mentioned yes its a thinner body then the other f30s

    Over all shape was clean considering age .

    I asked about neck angle and saddle height and mentioned pics not showing the right angle to see it clearly . Hey sent me some just like the others for the most part that were posted making hard to see .

    The top has some bellying or pull up not sure what the factory specs were as far as its design having a slight curve or being totally flat .

    Saddle is 3/32 or less before hitting the bridge .
    Straight edge rests 1/8 below bridge .

    So I mentioned the issues and I got lecture of being in business for 100 yrs ( boy hes old )
    And his tech guy is Taylor, Fender and something else approved and has been doing repairs for over 50 yrs

    Tech guy is how old ? K so screw the age part what matters is it passed his 50 yrs of experience as being all good .

    Well not sure what you you all think but its going back.

    Another notch in the learning belt .
    Some of my worst songs are some of my best music .

  2. #2
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rayk View Post
    Another notch in the learning belt .
    Scale length? Nut width? Audio?
    (just yankin' yer chain, buddy!)
    RE slight bellying: as I understand it ALL flattops are built with some slight degree of top radius, but I don't recall ever seeing a spec published for any of the Westerlys.
    I think top radii are given in feet as opposed to inches like fretboards, just to give an idea.
    3/32" of saddle showing on a late Westerly sounds like it's already been lowered as much as it could be, though.
    Methinks maybe the shop believes the "all good for its age" clause is assumed by all buyers of vintage instruments and thus need not be reiterated to death?
    Me, I'm with you: Reiterate me to death, please.
    Understand the short stay and better luck on the next one.
    I'd really like to see you give a CO-1 or 2 a good going over.
    Last edited by adorshki; 11-22-2017 at 12:25 AM.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    What does the HR stand for?
    Neal

    '53 "X-150" Redburst
    '54 X-200-S SB
    '71 F-20 NT ("Tonya")
    '71 D-25 BR
    '73 D-35 NT
    '81 D-212 SB

    Others: '34 Martin 0-18K, '34 Martin 0-17, '74 Dobro Round-Neck Resonator (wood), '87 Dobro Square-Neck Resonator (wood), '04 Huss & Dalton TD-R, '07 Rockbridge Adi/Mahogany dreadnought, '14 Huss & Dalton DS Crossroads, Tele Partscaster.

  4. #4
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal View Post
    What does the HR stand for?
    Hand Rubbed finish.
    An NC gel that was applied by hand and no buffing for gloss.
    Most commonly seen on DV52, DV6 and D4 which were all introduced that way and then given high gloss options later on.
    Oh waitaminnit, with all the discussion about that finish in another thread recently, was that a joke?
    Y'got me.

    Last edited by adorshki; 11-22-2017 at 12:51 AM.
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal View Post
    What does the HR stand for?
    Gotta be Hard Rock.
    '56 Guild X50
    '67 Guild F30SB Hog/Sitka
    '73 Guild D25 Hog/Hog Flatback
    '79 Guild F50 Maple/Sitka
    '84 Guild D66 RW/Sitka
    '11 Guild F47 RW/Adi
    '14 Guild F50R RW/Sitka

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by sixx View Post
    Gotta be Hard Rock.
    No oh no , no hard rock on this model lol I give it a F rating even if new .

    However the HR finish is thin and certainly would benefit other models tone and volume .

    I can say if this f30 is worth 700.00 my cv-1 one should be worth twice that Mric or whatever you call it or not ! Lol
    Last edited by Rayk; 11-22-2017 at 01:07 AM.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by adorshki View Post
    Scale length? Nut width? Audio?
    (just yankin' yer chain, buddy!)
    RE slight bellying: as I understand it ALL flattops are built with some slight degree of top radius, but I don't recall ever seeing a spec published for any of the Westerlys.
    I think top radii are given in feet as opposed to inches like fretboards, just to give an idea.
    3/32" of saddle showing on a late Westerly sounds like it's already been lowered as much as it could be, though.
    Methinks maybe the shop believes the "all good for its age" clause is assumed by all buyers of vintage instruments and thus need not be reiterated to death?
    Me, I'm with you: Reiterate me to death, please.
    Understand the short stay and better luck on the next one.
    I'd really like to see you give a CO-1 or 2 a good going over.
    Their asking to much for them Al . Guild pricing is a little out of whack since I signed on .
    But I been looking at them , thing is if I buy one I want to be able sell it without taking a loss .
    For guitars I want as keepers NH built is tops on the list any others unless a rarity in tone is a perk the others just a curiosity and learning curve .

  8. #8
    Any properly built older guitar should have a little belly, otherwise it probably won't have great tone. My friend Dana Bourgeois, and possibly best luthier alive, describes it in this very succinct article. Building a fine guitar is really a high wire act.
    Sandy

    '59 X175AB, '68 SFII Bass (Green), '73 D50NT, '82 Mark V, '87 Pilot SB602M, '88 Pilot SB602M, '10 F512NT,
    '11 F50ce Std (Sunburst) '13 R30S (Resonator), '13 B54ce Std Bass, '13 Orpheum Jumbo Prototype

  9. #9
    Senior Member davismanLV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twocorgis View Post
    Building a fine guitar is really a high wire act.
    It's the truth, Sandy. People want finely built, light and responsive guitars that are built like TANKS and can withstand life in HELL. It's not gonna happen. There is a happy medium but for everything you gain, you give up SOMETHING.
    Tom in Vegas

    Use the good china. Life itself is the special occasion.

    Guild D65s, 1994
    Guild DV72, 1994
    Taylor GC8, 2011
    Breedlove Oregon Concert Rogue 4/12/2016
    Washburn EA-20 "Festival Series", 1995

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by twocorgis View Post
    Any properly built older guitar should have a little belly, otherwise it probably won't have great tone. My friend Dana Bourgeois, and possibly best luthier alive, describes it in this very succinct article. Building a fine guitar is really a high wire act.
    Yup but the saddle height and 1/8dtop in neck angle dont add up . Add that 1/8th to the saddle height and break angle is still poor .

    Either way neck reset would cost the as much as the guitar did and that is certainly not worth it .

    Wait !? Youre fruends with Dana ? I want in on that hes the one that turned me on to African black wood and cedar tops . ;)

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