Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25

Thread: New Guild Day - Guild AO-3CE - Orchestra Cutaway - Natural Finish (MIM)

  1. #11
    send it back. my vote...
    Wood

    1971 D25 Br--ol' Flattop
    https://soundcloud.com/woody-adams/sets/not-metal

    "i think that you are the only one i know of that considers the 1973-1974 mahogany top/arch back D-25 a "holy grail" guitar"--mav

    "always confront the load facing it directly"--nuuska

  2. #12
    That thing has a wicked neck bow in it not to mention the off center splice of the neck wood itself when looking at it from the back. It looks as if it had full tension on it and the neck possibly wasn't dried completely and then the bow became permanent. Yes you have plenty of saddle to shave but once you shave it it is not in the condition you received it in and probably no longer eligible for a return and refund. To the best of my knowledge these guitars did not have a Nitro finish. I believe it is some form of poly which makes that "crack" you mentioned almost not repairable without there being traces of the repair left behind. Honestly I would send it back, Get a full refund, and look for another guitar. These things sold new for between $300-$450 MAP so any repairs are really not worth it in terms of value. Best to have a better starting platform in my opinion that you can enjoy right away without having to sink money into it that you will never recoup. I wouldn't even waste a new set of strings on it. Just my opinion.

    TX
    Guilds
    Hoboken-1960 X175, 1961 SF-II
    Westerly-1971 F612, 1976 G41, 2000 SF-V, 1984 S284, 1993 JF100-NT-CRV
    Nashville C.S. SFIV-3 P90 w/Trem
    Corona-2003 Fleming F47-Brz RW, 2003 D55 50th Ann. Brz RW#10 of 50, 2003 X160 R.B., 2003 SF-III-90
    Conn-2011 GSR D50 Coco, 2013 R30S, 2013 Orph 12 Fret Slope, 2013 Orph Jumbo, 2014 Orph Burst 000-12 Fret 12 String S.H. RW, 2012 F50-DTAR, 2012 F50R Burst, 2012 F50R DTAR, 2013 F512 Burst, 2014 F512-DTAR, 2014 D55-RS

    Amps
    70 T-bird 2x12
    93 Sequoia

  3. #13
    Super Moderator chazmo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    13,427
    You guys are probably right, but I honestly think it's a little alarmist to make a diagnosis based on those pictures. It may just need some simple setup.

    However, caution is the order of the day here. :)
    Quote Originally Posted by Neal
    I am going to hang onto this little F-20 and play it as a reminder that life is sometimes rough, but it doesn't necessarily mean that the damage you accrue along the way defines who you are.
    Quote Originally Posted by marcellis
    Growing old is a bitch.
    Guild 12-strings:
    1978 G-312NT (Westerly) - "Franzz",
    1994 JF-30-12Bld (Westerly),
    2006 F-512 (Tacoma),
    2010 F-212XL STD (New Hartford) - "Connie"
    2014 Orpheum 12 OOO SHRW (New Hartford)

    Non-Guild 12s:
    1970 Martin D-12-20
    1980 Ibanez AW-75 (Series I)
    1984 Taylor 655

  4. #14
    Senior Member davismanLV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    U.S.A. : Nevada : Las Vegas
    Posts
    9,207
    Yeah, action looks crazy high. Remember the formula is: Take the amount you want to lower it at the 12th fret, and take DOUBLE that amount off the bottom of the saddle!! Suddenly, that saddle isn't very tall any more. Plus, if you're modifying it, you're keeping it. I'd be hesitant to invest in repairs or to keep. Just one opinion.
    Tom in Vegas

    Use the good china. Life itself is the special occasion.

    Guild D65s, 1994
    Guild DV72, 1994
    Taylor GC8, 2011
    Breedlove Oregon Concert Rogue 4/12/2016
    Washburn EA-20 "Festival Series", 1995

  5. #15
    Senior Member adorshki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sillycon Valley CA
    Posts
    20,328
    Quote Originally Posted by chazmo View Post
    You guys are probably right, but I honestly think it's a little alarmist to make a diagnosis based on those pictures. It may just need some simple setup.

    However, caution is the order of the day here. :)
    In the same spirit, I forgot to mention that what looks like a serious flaw/severe forward bow of the neck mightbe exaggerated by a possible "fisheye lens" effect of the camera?
    Al
    "Time May Change the Technique of Music But Never Its Mission " - Rachmaninoff
    My 1st Guild: '96 Westerly D25NT "Hally" (10-31-96 stamped on heelblock)
    #2: '01 Westerly F65ce "Blondie"
    #3: '03 Corona D40e Richie Havens "Richie"
    All bought new!

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by adorshki View Post
    In the same spirit, I forgot to mention that what looks like a serious flaw/severe forward bow of the neck mightbe exaggerated by a possible "fisheye lens" effect of the camera?

    Hi

    I strongly disagree - fisheye picture would have about everything more or less curved. In the picture of PittPastor neck looks straight from nut to about 10th - then comes bow @ 10-14 - and then it is outside picture - at the same time the strings are straight - just put a piece of paper-edge on your screen to verify.

    Time to hit the hay - good night - hyvää yötä.
    First good guitar - GUILD Duane Eddy 400 - I was 3rd owner - used to have Artist Award and Starfire
    Present guitars - F50R 1975 - F512 1977 - F212CSB 1979 - all bought new - B30SB fretless and RED Songbird bought secondhand - Schecter Startocaster - Gibson 3/4-size acoustic 1957 - Carmelo Gonzales nylon string - old Levin Lute

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    metrowest MA
    Posts
    1,472
    I just looked back at another thread, & realized that the OP had linked the Reverb ad that described this instrument. Most of the description was copied/pasted from other on-line sources, but the ad included the following snippets of text that appear to have originated with the seller:

    "Upon very close inspection we could not find a thing out of place on this instrument, it is Minty Mint"

    and

    "This guitar has been thoroughly inspected and was given a pro set-up . . ."

    Both of those statements are hard to believe. I'd take that seller up on their seven-day return policy. And I'd probably argue with them about their re-stocking fee, in this case.

    edit: Coincidentally, none of the photos in that Reverb ad depict the string action height. And I'd also ask them to pay for the return shipping. Measure the string action height at the 12th fret, & compare it to the ordinary ranges to see how out of line it actually is. And if you try lowering the saddle height before deciding what to do, use a different saddle blank (so as to keep the one the seller provided, unaltered; his shop policies indicate that the guitar can only be returned in the exact condition in which he shipped it).
    Last edited by geoguy; 11-08-2017 at 09:38 PM.
    several Guilds, one Gretsch, one Taylor, & a Squire CV tele

  8. #18
    Hate it if it’s a return you sure are trying hard and have to give ya praise for that :)

  9. #19
    Senior Member PittPastor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Western Pennsylvania
    Posts
    228
    OK, thank you one and all!

    Sorry I haven't replied, but I actually was at Stuart Day's shop (the Luthier). He was in the shop and had some time, so I hot-footed it over.

    Summary is the guitar is structurally fine. (He liked the sound of the guitar. Commented on it twice.) The bow in the neck was due to the tension rod being almost completely undone. Thankfully, setting the tension correctly took the bow out and greatly reduced the action. After looking it over inside and out, he tells me that all it needs is a set-up.

    I'm going to play it for a few days and see how it feels. I am thinking I will probably end up keeping it, at which time, I will have Stuart do a full set-up.

    Issues he found and we discussed:

    • The saddle leans a little bit forward. So, the saddle is either a little too thin, or the slot in the bridge is a little too wide. Either way, the fix is one of two options: A) replace the saddle with a new one (bone this time) that is the right thickness or B) add a veneer to the slot to keep the saddle in place better. I'm leaning towards A since it also benefits the over all tone -- although I do have to remember this is a $300-something guitar. So, that might change my mind. Right now, tho, I'm thinking of replacing it with bone.
    • One fret stand a little high. This isn't creating any buzzing problems currently, but it could as we drop the action, so he will try to get it to reset, and he will file it if necessary.
    • Slight bump in the fretboard. I didn't see that one, but he did. And he says he will sand it smooth and even when he does the setup.



    That was all he saw during the examination. But, it looks like from a structural standpoint, the Archos is fine. I'll keep everyone posted.
    ----------------------------------
    1980 Guild D40C Sunburst
    1978 Guild Mark II Classical

    Soundcloud - Cat's In The Crade (D40C)

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by PittPastor View Post
    OK, thank you one and all!

    Sorry I haven't replied, but I actually was at Stuart Day's shop (the Luthier). He was in the shop and had some time, so I hot-footed it over.

    Summary is the guitar is structurally fine. (He liked the sound of the guitar. Commented on it twice.) The bow in the neck was due to the tension rod being almost completely undone. Thankfully, setting the tension correctly took the bow out and greatly reduced the action. After looking it over inside and out, he tells me that all it needs is a set-up.

    I'm going to play it for a few days and see how it feels. I am thinking I will probably end up keeping it, at which time, I will have Stuart do a full set-up.

    Issues he found and we discussed:

    • The saddle leans a little bit forward. So, the saddle is either a little too thin, or the slot in the bridge is a little too wide. Either way, the fix is one of two options: A) replace the saddle with a new one (bone this time) that is the right thickness or B) add a veneer to the slot to keep the saddle in place better. I'm leaning towards A since it also benefits the over all tone -- although I do have to remember this is a $300-something guitar. So, that might change my mind. Right now, tho, I'm thinking of replacing it with bone.
    • One fret stand a little high. This isn't creating any buzzing problems currently, but it could as we drop the action, so he will try to get it to reset, and he will file it if necessary.
    • Slight bump in the fretboard. I didn't see that one, but he did. And he says he will sand it smooth and even when he does the setup.



    That was all he saw during the examination. But, it looks like from a structural standpoint, the Archos is fine. I'll keep everyone posted.
    Ahhh good deal :)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •