Looking for M-20 Time/Variant/Custom Recommendations

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To be honest, I didn't really know much about Guild a month ago. I mean, I knew they were a guitar manufacturer, but not much more than that. Then I stumbled across a video of the M-20 and fell in love with the sound. So watched more M-20 videos and they re-affirmed that it was the best sounding guitar I've heard. Of course everyone has different preferences in this regard.

Anyway, I then started getting into the specs of it (the new one). I was disappointed to see the use of artificial components:

Rosette: ABS (Plastic) Ring
Fretboard Inlays: Pearloid (Plastic)
Bridge Pins: Ivory Coated Plastic
Endpin: Ivory Coated Plastic
Tuning Machines: Guild Vintage Style Open Gear in Nickel with Cream Buttons (Buttons Plastic?)
It looks like the Nut and Saddle were NuBone in the teaser video (I think), but it is bone in the production model

So, I know I could replace the inlays, bridge pins, endpins, and tuning machines. I doubt I could do much about the rosette.

Another thing to note (if not already obvious!), is that I'm a purist. I would also want to remove the pickguard (waiting for Guild to confirm it's finished under-neath). I'd also happily have no rosette, but if it's natural material I'm not too bothered about that.

Would happily pay more for a Deluxe version that has no plastics, but doubt that is on the cards. So should I make these modifications or should I look to get an older model? What's your thoughts?

Oh, clearly I'd want a natural finish too...

Thanks.
 

fronobulax

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Welcome. I'm not the one to advise you since I don't modify my instruments and I don't object to the materials that you do. My definition of purist tends towards factory specs and condition :) I'm sure a more useful/interesting answer will be along shortly.
 

AcornHouse

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Welcome!
Remember, the M-20 was originally named the "Economy" model, and was the least expensive flattop. There are NO deluxe models from any era. It is a pure, no bling, small bodied guitar; no binding, simple rosette, the originals didn't even have perloid inlay, clay dots, and silk screened logo. At least the current production has an inlaid logo, perloid notwithstanding.
Its a folk/blues/fingerstyle powerhouse with no pretensions.

Now, as you said, replacing the nut, pins, and saddle with bone is easy enough, I did it with my '61, but for tonal reasons. So, vintage will get you age (which I appreciate in a guitar), but no extra frills. The specs, however, did change over the years, as far as nut width. If you like skinny necks, you'll need to get a vintage one from the Hoboken era. The current production is quite wide at 1-3/4" (Hoboken is 1-5/8")

I don't understand how removing the pickguard is "purist", they've always had one.
 

adorshki

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To be honest, I didn't really know much about Guild a month ago. I mean, I knew they were a guitar manufacturer, but not much more than that. Then I stumbled across a video of the M-20 and fell in love with the sound. So watched more M-20 videos and they re-affirmed that it was the best sounding guitar I've heard. Of course everyone has different preferences in this regard.

Anyway, I then started getting into the specs of it (the new one). I was disappointed to see the use of artificial components:

Rosette: ABS (Plastic) Ring
Fretboard Inlays: Pearloid (Plastic)
Bridge Pins: Ivory Coated Plastic
Endpin: Ivory Coated Plastic
Tuning Machines: Guild Vintage Style Open Gear in Nickel with Cream Buttons (Buttons Plastic?)
It looks like the Nut and Saddle were NuBone in the teaser video (I think), but it is bone in the production model

So, I know I could replace the inlays, bridge pins, endpins, and tuning machines. I doubt I could do much about the rosette.

Another thing to note (if not already obvious!), is that I'm a purist. I would also want to remove the pickguard (waiting for Guild to confirm it's finished under-neath). I'd also happily have no rosette, but if it's natural material I'm not too bothered about that.

Would happily pay more for a Deluxe version that has no plastics, but doubt that is on the cards. So should I make these modifications or should I look to get an older model? What's your thoughts?

Oh, clearly I'd want a natural finish too...

Thanks.

HI Reflex, welcome aboard.
Lemme jump right to the point and say that getting an older M20 won't change any of the items you have an issue with.
It's Guild's entry level model, was even known was the "Economy M20" when introduced.
(NOTE I see Acornhouse got his post in while I was still composing)
Ya just ain't gonna get it under a price point with the upgrades you'd like.
And from a different perspective, if you put all the bling on your entry level, what's gonna make the top-of-the lines special?
Gonna start with fretbaord inlays as being the easiest to narrow down to "which models".
If you want real abalone inlays and rosette, look at: F50/F50r; JF55/JF65; D55.
Those all got abalone fretboard inlays and certain versions got abalone rosettes.
There're other less common models too, but up through end of New Hratford at least, any inlays with the triangles in 'em are real abalone.
And then you don't have to worry about the cost of getting custom work.
I don't know if Oxnard plans to continue the tradition of real abalone on the new versions of the F50 and D55.
I'm assuming you know very little of Guild history at this point, so allow me to try to put it in a nutshell:
(Confirming Acornhouse's mention of "no pretensions"):
Guild was all about the quality of their woods and their construction and they still managed to offer what many considered to be better guitars than the equivalent Martins or Gibsons for a much better price.
Everything was pearloid including Chesterfields, dots and inlays on everything they were used on. (Actually, forgot about clay dots on early guitars.)
They didn't even use bone nuts and saddles until '05 in Tacoma.
And yet they still managed to make some fantastic sounding guitars.
That's what binds us all together, here.
Another hallmark of Guild was the craftsmanship: even my entry level D25 shows fit and finish unequalled by many guitars I see on display today.
The pearloid buttons in the fretboard?
No snark intended but I've seen (and even still own one) guitars where the things have sunken into their routings.
I doubt that's happened to anybody here with a pre-Oxnard guitar.
FYI Cordoba Music Group only bought Guild in late 2014 after 20 years under Fender ownership, and only started getting guitars to market early this year, "If I recall correctly".
Oxnard's a brand new factory with very little experience and some construction details that were never part of Guild's tradition.
A lot of us here have been keeping their fingers crossed about how the new models will turn out, but I for one am starting to see some clouds on the horizon.
Click on the blue text to see a very recent thread about one new member's very recent experience with brand new M20's:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?193795-M-20-issue-and-how-Guild-Treated-Me

Note he finally wound up going with a New Hartford-built D40:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?193858-A-few-pictures-of-the-new-D-40
 
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I don't understand how removing the pickguard is "purist", they've always had one.

I know what you mean. Purist can mean as produced. I'm more of a purist when it comes to things that can distort the sound (yes, I know some will say it doesn't). Or you can call it a minimalist approach I guess.
 

Antney

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Oh, clearly I'd want a natural finish too...

Thanks.

That goes without saying.

I think Taylor has a model with all of your requirements PLUS the wood was quartersewn by virgin lumberjacks.

Welcome slowreflex
 
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