trying to match blonde finish

grayghost53

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I've got a small project going and need to try to match the "blonde" finish on my model III. I've tried clear coating a piece of flame maple but it is decidedly too pale. anyone have any ideas? I know stewmac has their "color tone" dyes, and they offer a lemon yellow, but not sure if this is what I need. any suggestions greatly appreciated.
 

CosmicArkie

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I haven't got a sample of the blonde finish in front of me, but, just guessing, I'd go with the vintage amber tint. Add to clear nitro and sneak up on your level of blonde-ness. A little goes a loooong way toward tinting and the number of coats directly impacts depth as well.

I've been screwing around trying to work up an "aged" appearance on some blazing white bindings and add a drop of the brown as well.

ymmv.
 

GAD

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I've owned many blonde Guilds and they've all been different. The Starfire on the right (the only one pictured that I still have) has darkened over time, but even in this pic it was darker than the X170.

_B0Z4675_800.jpg


Here's the same Starfire on the right next to a '98 on the left which is clearly lighter:

This pic shows it even better. The '00 Starfire IV is on the bottom and the '98 Starfire IV is on the top.

Guild-1998-2000-Starfire4-Width1.jpg




My point is that I think you'll need to color match your specific guitar.
 

adorshki

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I've got a small project going and need to try to match the "blonde" finish on my model III. I've tried clear coating a piece of flame maple but it is decidedly too pale. anyone have any ideas? I know stewmac has their "color tone" dyes, and they offer a lemon yellow, but not sure if this is what I need. any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I always thought the "Blonde" designation was reserved for Maple bodies with a maple or spruce top and a clear finish,**** just like they used "NT" for "natural" on unstained acoustic tops with other body woods.
They used "BL" on maple-bodied/spruce top acoustics, as well: "F50 BLD" and "G37 BLD" come to mind, and my own F65ce.
At least I always thought they were "clear" (unstained), never seen anything to the contrary.
Anyway, as GAD points out the lacquer yellows with age, and the wood actually does too.
UV exposure from sunlight accelerates both processes:
The basic building blocks of wood, cellulose and lignin, are the culprits, it's what makes newsprint turn yellow in sunlight so quickly, they're still present in much greater percentage in newsprint than in better grades of paper.
Cellulose is also the basic building block in Nitrocellulose lacquer and plastics.
My D25 is "Natural" but has darkened so much over 20 years (including literally around 1000 hours of outdoor playing) it looks like what the factory called "Amber" when new.
And what used to be a fairly subtle "racing stripe" below the bridge is now decidedly reddish honey-colored.
So between the wood's original shade, the age of the lacquer, and amount of UV exposure, you've got 3 variables and GAD's right that the instrument probably needs to be specifically matched.
Cosmic Arkie's suggestions sound spot-on: add amber to clear until the desired tint is achieved.
And then be aware that that lacquer's going to start aging too.

***Edit: I just realized that the solid body in the middle's probably ash, or at least not maple, so obviously there was more flexibility with the term in solid body electrics.
 
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