Yep...I Bought It!

walrus

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I just reread through this thread - what a story! With a happy ending it seems!

walrus
 

jedzep

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Oh yeah, brutha'. It's pretty with the p'guard gone too. I'll photograph it in tomorrow's daylight.
 

jedzep

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Sounds familiar. Thanks for reminding me. I think there will be little chance of finding a decent period correct bridge for this one. My saddle now sits flush to the base and has no wobble room, and with the lower string tension I can hopefully nurse this one along for a while.

I thought for a bit that if this had a great voice I would want to sell off one of my other more 'expensive' small bods and turn a little profit w/o falling below my 3 guitar minimum. Result...my new 4 guitar minimum has now been instituted. I just ordered a strap which makes it official. That neck heel strap pin won't be used though. That was pulled off right out of the box. Now, to try different strings, though these Dunlops sound just fine, and they calmed down almost overnight.
 

jeffcoop

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Just read through the thread. Glad this turned out well, and looking forward to pictures.
 

jedzep

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Just read through the thread. Glad this turned out well, and looking forward to pictures.

Thanks. I see F20 on your guitar herd list. What's your preferred string choice? As for photos...ha ha, it looks just like it did in the Reverb listing, except w/o the pick guard. Thankfully, there isn't any fade out over where the guard was, just a faint outline of the orig guard. Looks like a bit of dirt that wasn't sanded out before being sprayed. I'll tend to it later, when I get to that NGD player saturation point.
 
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jedzep

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I was encouraged to find Guild sells a bridge for the F20, specifically GAD model, which is pretty much the replacement I would need should my cracked one fail. However, I'm puzzled by the dimensions in their description, which is listed as 8 X 4 X 1. Mine is 6" long with 1" wide tails and an inch and a quarter belly, more or less. Am I missing something?

https://shop.guildguitars.com/product/gad-6-string-rosewood-bridge-m-20f-20/
 

adorshki

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I was encouraged to find Guild sells a bridge for the F20, specifically GAD model, which is pretty much the replacement I would need should my cracked one fail. However, I'm puzzled by the dimensions in their description, which is listed as 8 X 4 X 1. Mine is 6" long with 1" wide tails and an inch and a quarter belly, more or less. Am I missing something?

2 things occur to me: It's either a flat-out goof or it's the size of the box it comes in.
An 8" long bridge just don't make no sense.
I'm no expert on GAD's but at $30.00 I'd also do some due diligence to ensure the footprint/pin spacing actually work for you.
There were dimensional differences from the USA versions on at least some of them, let alone which era of design was "copied".
I noticed for example that bridge was the "through saddle" type, I never even realized that was an element of GAD design, and I thought Guild dropped that in '67, in at least some models.
Which also made me think that even if pin spacing and footprint match, the saddle slot's gotta be spaced correctly too, or your scale length will be messed up.
:friendly_wink:
 

jedzep

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You're right on top of it, man. According to the helpful rep I just spoke to, there's some befuddled info on there that someone will get back to me on. The pkg size is 8X4X1 as you suggested. My bridge slot isn't a drop in so I think that issue is correct. Pretty sure my bridge is orig. The neck block is stamped 3036 which is probably '69. The GAD bridge might be an OK substitute but the two details you raise are vital, string spacing and slot position.

Big thanks for tuning me in.
 

adorshki

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You're right on top of it, man. According to the helpful rep I just spoke to, there's some befuddled info on there that someone will get back to me on. The pkg size is 8X4X1 as you suggested. My bridge slot isn't a drop in so I think that issue is correct. Pretty sure my bridge is orig. The neck block is stamped 3036 which is probably '69. The GAD bridge might be an OK substitute but the two details you raise are vital, string spacing and slot position.

Big thanks for tuning me in.

's what we do 'round here.
When we're not creating chaotic veers in "Miscellaneous" threads.
:biggrin-new:
I bet your bridge is original, they were known for using up old parts before using new ones (Al Dronge insisted on it wherever possible), I just know for sure D40's started getting drop-ins in '67.
 

jeffcoop

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Thanks. I see F20 on your guitar herd list. What's your preferred string choice? As for photos...ha ha, it looks just like it did in the Reverb listing, except w/o the pick guard. Thankfully, there isn't any fade out over where the guard was, just a faint outline of the orig guard. Looks like a bit of dirt that wasn't sanded out before being sprayed. I'll tend to it later, when I get to that NGD player saturation point.

I love my '64 F20--it sounds a lot bigger than its size. I use Elixir Nanoweb 80/20 lights, which is what I use on just about everything. They're not the best-sounding strings in the world, perhaps, but they sound great to me, and they last a long time.

I do think we need pics of your F20 without the pickguard!
 

jedzep

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Hmmm...let's see if I can get a decent image to come up through P'bucket.
th_000_0003_zpsxg7kqigo.jpg
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Westerly Wood

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cool you can do all that work on the F20 yourself. sounds like a great guitar. Congrats on the score and good end to story.
 

bobouz

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I really like the no-pickguard look on that one. And the bridge size & shape seems to be the perfect match - just beautiful.

I'd sure keep that original bridge on there unless structural stability of the body is at risk. Assuring that the string ball ends are properly seated on the bridgeplate will go a long way towards keeping stress off the bridge itself.

Very cool!
 

jedzep

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Thanks folks! I think I have the bridge stabilized. I'd really like to keep it Brazilian though Guild sells an adequate understated Indian RW that would work. I'm hoping Hans has one somewhere.
https://shop.guildguitars.com/product/gad-6-string-rosewood-bridge-m-20f-20/

Here's a bridge pic...maybe.
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[/URL][/IMG]

Looks cleaner in person with new matching pins and nicely shaped saddle.
 
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GardMan

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Looks great!

You might be able to make the hairline crack between the pin holes nearly invisible by filling it with some rosewood dust and glue. You might be able to use thinned tightbond (since you used tightbond on the crack already), but on my D-50's bridge, I used thin super glue (and ebony dust).

If you don't have a scrap of rosewood laying around, just buy a rosewood (or similarly colored) end pin or bridge pin (from StewMac or LMI).
 

jedzep

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Good idea. I have some BRW blanks. Next time I have it all apart I'll deal with that. Now that I have it in playing shape I can hardly put it down. That'll pass. I do think the nut slots need to be dropped down, otherwise known as a cheap neck reset.
 
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