Servicing 1960s Guild M20

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Hi all,

This is my first post on this forum so please be gentle. I have followed it for many years.

I have a mid 60s M20 which I've had for about 6 years. One and only guitar which I cherish. Shortly after purchasing it I got it a full setup with neck reset, new frets, new nut etc. It is kept in a case with a humidifier. I don't change strings often as like the sound of nearly dead strings on it.
My question is, how often do vintage guitars need setting up/servicing? There is nothing wrong as far as I can see and it plays really nice.
Do vintage instruments like this need checking regularly? A local luthier can do the following:
Checking, adjusting, lubricating tuners; Dressing and polishing the frets;
Checking, adjusting and lubricating the nut and saddle;
Conditioning and oiling the fretboard;
Conditioning and oiling/waxing the body;
Internal check if bracing, woodwork etc.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
 

kdavid

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Hi Pinkmoon & welcome! Yr name & M20 go hand in hand.
I really cant speak to vintage guitars but it seems that if a reset/refret have been done by a compentent luthier you should be good to go for almost another lifetime
Someone with real world experience will chime in shortly
i love M20s...at least I love mine ( a 2016 model ). :joyous:
 

txbumper57

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First off I see this is your first post so let me say Welcome to LTG! Depending on your location and the Quality of Luthiers in your area I think that everything you are asking about can be done by a local luthier who has a good reputation. A lot of us make our own adjustments and maintenance checks on our own instruments but if you do not have that option a local luthier should work great. If you can give us your area there may be folks here who can guide you to someone qualified to do what you need that is close to you.

As far as any Neck adjustments that may be needed are concerned, Solid wood guitars such as your F20 are susceptible to changes in the Humidity and Temperature around them. Most of my Solid wood guitars may need small adjustments from Summer time to Winter time and back to keep them at optimal playing condition. I always make it a point to check my guitars regularly as the seasons change to make sure there are no issues popping up that could lead to major repairs if not addressed early on.

I am sure others will be along shortly with more info. For now I will just say to make sure and not use anything with silicone in it to wax or polish your solid wood guitar. Silicone can seep into the wood through the finish and cause problems with any repairs that may be needed at a later date. Look forward to hearing more and like I said earlier, Welcome To LTG!

TX
 
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Hi Pinkmoon & welcome! Yr name & M20 go hand in hand.
I really cant speak to vintage guitars but it seems that if a reset/refret have been done by a compentent luthier you should be good to go for almost another lifetime
Someone with real world experience will chime in shortly
i love M20s...at least I love mine ( a 2016 model ). :joyous:

Thank you. Yes, I was under the impression too that after a good setup/reset etc then I would be good to go. Yes, looked at new m20 as backup to my original but don't play live so will save cash, for now! Have you played an original like mine? If so, how do they compare?
 
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First off I see this is your first post so let me say Welcome to LTG! Depending on your location and the Quality of Luthiers in your area I think that everything you are asking about can be done by a local luthier who has a good reputation. A lot of us make our own adjustments and maintenance checks on our own instruments but if you do not have that option a local luthier should work great. If you can give us your area there may be folks here who can guide you to someone qualified to do what you need that is close to you.

As far as any Neck adjustments that may be needed are concerned, Solid wood guitars such as your F20 are susceptible to changes in the Humidity and Temperature around them. Most of my Solid wood guitars may need small adjustments from Summer time to Winter time and back to keep them at optimal playing condition. I always make it a point to check my guitars regularly as the seasons change to make sure there are no issues popping up that could lead to major repairs if not addressed early on.

I am sure others will be along shortly with more info. For now I will just say to make sure and not use anything with silicone in it to wax or polish your solid wood guitar. Silicone can seep into the wood through the finish and cause problems with any repairs that may be needed at a later date. Look forward to hearing more and like I said earlier, Welcome To LTG!

TX
Thanks for the welcome. The guitar as neck reset, refret and setup in 2011. My question was more about getting it professionally checked and how often?
 
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If it ain't broke, don't worry about it. Once a good guitar is properly set up, and given that it's not abused or left in a difficult environment, it will not need serious attention for years. My '65 D-40 hasn't been in a shop for 20 years, other than getting a back brace reglued after it took a tumble. The mid-sixties M-20 I used to own never needed a lick of care beyond the usual humidifying, and my '59 M-30 hasn't been in the shop since I bought it 20 years ago.
 

davismanLV

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I'm going to concur with Russell, here. Less is more. If it's set up and plays well, leave it alone. Usually problems that require attention show symptoms. If you have no symptoms, you should be good to go. If it becomes difficult to play, then take it to someone who can help you diagnose the problem, but otherwise, just play on!! I am a huge proponent of LESS is MORE. Nitrocellulose lacquer is a hard shell finish on your guitar and it doesn't require feeding or nourishment. If the guitar is clean, you're good. Every string change I take a damp cloth (when all he strings are off) and wipe the whole thing down including the fretboard and then dry with a soft, dry cloth. Cleans up just fine! I really avoid polishes and cleaners if I can. As TX says, you have to be aware of products with silicone in them especially with older guitars which will have small breaks and cracks in the finish and the silicone can cause problems later. Finding products with no silicone can be difficult, and they're really not necessary anyway. You don't mention what part of the world you live in, but just be aware of the humidity level. 40 - 60% relative humidity is a good range. You don't want less and more is not a good thing either. I occasionally (once a year, maybe) put a few drops of bore oil on the fretboard just to darken and protect a bit. Use sparingly.

Other than that, enjoy your amazing Guild! And welcome to LTG!! :encouragement:
 
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Thank you for all the replies - it is much appreciated and has really re-affirmed my own thoughts that unless there is a problem then leave it alone. I'm in the UK so don't think humidity changes are too much of an issue but I keep it in case with Planet waves acoustic humidifier.
 

Neal

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Yep. I fall squarely into the "ain't broke, don't fix it" camp.

Your eyes, ears and fingers will tell you when something needs professional attention.

Having said that, when playing becomes compromised, I do not hesitate to call my luthier. He has two of my elderly archtops right now, one for a full refret, and another for fret dressing.
 

davismanLV

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Being in the UK doesn't ensure you won't have humidity problems. There could be TOO MUCH or if you use heating, it can dry out the air in your house or guitar room to a serious degree. You probably won't have any trouble, but get a hygrometer (they're cheap) and measure it in the room your guitar is in. If it's too damp you may want to invest in a DE-humidifier. Otherwise, just keep your eye on it. Here in the land of the parched, I can be in the safe zone, and then ONE CYCLE of the heating (like right now, since it's cold and rainy) will dry the air out to dangerous levels! Just be aware. What the relative humidity is outside is not necessarily what's happening in your HOUSE!! :encouragement:
 

kdavid

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Thank you. Yes, I was under the impression too that after a good setup/reset etc then I would be good to go. Yes, looked at new m20 as backup to my original but don't play live so will save cash, for now! Have you played an original like mine? If so, how do they compare?
hi Pinkmoon! No I've never had the opportunity to play an original, but if i did I'd be all over it :joyous:
 

mavuser

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Have you played an original like mine? If so, how do they compare?

Hello, and welcome. I have played several vintage shortscale/Hoboken M-20s, and currently own two of them (a 1962 & 1970). When I first played the new Oxnard M-20 at Sam Ash, shortly after they got one in stock, it felt and sounded a little stiff. It was nice, but just felt a little different. When I went back maybe 2-3 months later, I strated playing the same exact guitar, and have to say it felt and sounded wonderful, just like an M-20 should be...I felt right at home. so maybe the brand new strings and tone wood just needed some time to stretch and breathe. It felt, and sounded, real nice the second time.
 
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Being in the UK doesn't ensure you won't have humidity problems. There could be TOO MUCH or if you use heating, it can dry out the air in your house or guitar room to a serious degree. You probably won't have any trouble, but get a hygrometer (they're cheap) and measure it in the room your guitar is in. If it's too damp you may want to invest in a DE-humidifier. Otherwise, just keep your eye on it. Here in the land of the parched, I can be in the safe zone, and then ONE CYCLE of the heating (like right now, since it's cold and rainy) will dry the air out to dangerous levels! Just be aware. What the relative humidity is outside is not necessarily what's happening in your HOUSE!! :encouragement:

Thanks. I am looking at the Planet Waves Humidipak in light of your advice. Any experience with it?
 
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Hello, and welcome. I have played several vintage shortscale/Hoboken M-20s, and currently own two of them (a 1962 & 1970). When I first played the new Oxnard M-20 at Sam Ash, shortly after they got one in stock, it felt and sounded a little stiff. It was nice, but just felt a little different. When I went back maybe 2-3 months later, I strated playing the same exact guitar, and have to say it felt and sounded wonderful, just like an M-20 should be...I felt right at home. so maybe the brand new strings and tone wood just needed some time to stretch and breathe. It felt, and sounded, real nice the second time.

Yes, when I put new strings on my 60s m20 it is completely different for about a month. I keep strings on it as long as possible (every 2 years or so). May have to see if there is anywhere in U.K. stocking new m20 to take a look at it.
 

davismanLV

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Thanks. I am looking at the Planet Waves Humidipak in light of your advice. Any experience with it?
Certainly sounds like it would work but I have no personal experience with it. I keep my guitars out on stands, rather than in cases so they're handy and easily grabbed and played without a lot of hassle. Of course, here in the desert, It means I have to keep my whole house humidified but, that's easily done. I'm sure some others here have used the Planet Waves Humidipak. Maybe they'll chime in......
 
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