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Thread: Filthy 1973 Guild D25

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Graphicism View Post
    Hey that's the very one! Well bad shape or not it was a steal... I just have to put my OCD to the back of my mind when I look at it.
    hey, id say you did pretty good as long as the playability is all there. its nice that the hole at least is on the treble side so you (or anyone else) doesnt see it when you are playing. still, it looks a little jagged and splintering. Id maybe get that repaired, Jacobs Custom Guitars is the preferred Guild Authorized repair shop and Tom Jacobs used to work for Guild. They are in Merrit Island, Florida if you are ever up that way, maybe have him look at it. you might ask him to clean it up some for you as well, if the lighter fluid doesn't work out (never tried it myself). and he can also get you a Guild truss rod cover.

    A+ on rescuing this one. A good luthier can get the finish issue straightened out, one way or another.

  2. #22
    Super Moderator Default's Avatar
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    Sounds like they used a lot of Lemon Pledge on your guitar. That stuff is the devil, but I would keep using the naphtha.
    "Steve, you are a man of many goats."~ capnjuan
    "8 of 18", "19 of 22", "25 of 25" (and a couple of amps)

    "Alternatively, you could just go the ultra-relic route with it. Basically go for a look that says the amp was on fire and they put it out using belt sanders. "

  3. #23
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    Might it be prudent to try gently heating the wood with a hair dryer to see if you can soften what is on there? Not so hot that you are melting glue or loosening braces. Just warm enough to scrub that stuff off.
    Neal

    '53 "X-150" Redburst
    '54 X-50 SB
    '54 X-200-S SB
    '71 F-20 NT ("Tonya")
    '71 D-25 BR
    '73 D-35 NT
    '81 D-212 SB
    '05 F-50R NT
    '12 F-50 STD SB
    '13 F-47R NT



    Others: '59 Gretsch Clipper, '74 Dobro Round-Neck Resonator (wood), '77 Dobro Squareneck Resonator (bell brass), '87 Dobro Square-Neck Resonator (wood), '09 Huss and Dalton TD-M Custom dreadnought, Tele Partscaster.

  4. #24
    If the OP want's to remove the offending stuff, I think he's going to need to use a lot of clean rags with that naphtha. As soon as the rag gets dirty, then switch to a clean one. Otherwise all that will be done is to move the gunk around. Eventually he will run out of gunk . . . or rags . . . or patience.
    Gibson Refrigerator
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  5. #25
    I had a 72 - same guitar basically - from '1973 to 2007. Refinished it and reset the neck. Gave it to a son. 2nd best Guild I've ever owned.
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    1972 D25 (flatback), 1988 D60,1997 F65ce, 2016 Newark Street Starfire III.

  6. #26
    Super Moderator chazmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kostask View Post
    Al is probably right about the carnauba.

    I don't know how to remove it, off the top of my head. On cars, you could use a chemical cleaner or machine polish, but that is not something to do on a guitar. Sticky after warm does sound like a wax type substance, though. Perhaps, just keep going with agressive cloth and naptha, and lots and lots of elbow grease.The carnauba may be really old, or it may have combined with hand/finger oilss as well. NCL degrading won't react with the symptoms Graphicism described.
    On cars, Dawn dishwashing fluid is normally used to take off wax/polish before applying new stuff. Might be worth trying a little soapy water on a sponge to a small area to see if it helps. I doubt it'd do any better than naptha though.

    There's another product called "clay bar" (which is, literally, clay) that's used on cars to really clean off the outer surface dirt. That's also used with a sheen of Dawn/water or some other lubricant and the clay picks up impurities that simply won't wash off.

    All that said, OBVIOUSLY, I'm not suggesting that someone wash down their guitar. Not like a car, that is. :)
    Quote Originally Posted by Neal
    I am going to hang onto this little F-20 and play it as a reminder that life is sometimes rough, but it doesn't necessarily mean that the damage you accrue along the way defines who you are.
    Quote Originally Posted by marcellis
    Growing old is a bitch.
    Guild 12-strings:
    1978 G-312NT (Westerly) - "Franzz",
    1994 JF-30-12Bld (Westerly),
    2006 F-512 (Tacoma),
    2010 F-212XL STD (New Hartford) - "Connie"
    2014 Orpheum 12 OOO SHRW (New Hartford)

    Non-Guild 12s:
    1970 Martin D-12-20
    1980 Ibanez AW-75 (Series I)
    1984 Taylor 655

  7. #27
    Clay bar would probably just slide over that stuff. Clay bar is not intended to be used for chemical cleaning, but removing embedded contaminants. It will also leave the guitar wtih micro-marring.

    The dish soap idea may have some merit, and the grease cutters in some soaps are pretty good, so depending on what was put on the guitar, it may be better than the naptha.

    One alternative is Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #9. Not Meguitar's Ultimate or Gold Class anything, ONLY Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #9 (I think it is up to Version 2 or 3 now). It has an extremely fine abrasive (far finer than any polish). has some chemical action to break down the stuff on the guitar chemically, and doesn't leave anything behind.
    _____________________________________
    1983 F-50R
    1971/72 F-212XL
    1993 DV-52
    1996 DV-6
    2005 GAD 30R

  8. #28
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    I used 120 grit sandpaper on an incredibly abused D-35...

    Probably a little heavy-handed for this job. But how about some steel wool?
    Neal

    '53 "X-150" Redburst
    '54 X-50 SB
    '54 X-200-S SB
    '71 F-20 NT ("Tonya")
    '71 D-25 BR
    '73 D-35 NT
    '81 D-212 SB
    '05 F-50R NT
    '12 F-50 STD SB
    '13 F-47R NT



    Others: '59 Gretsch Clipper, '74 Dobro Round-Neck Resonator (wood), '77 Dobro Squareneck Resonator (bell brass), '87 Dobro Square-Neck Resonator (wood), '09 Huss and Dalton TD-M Custom dreadnought, Tele Partscaster.

  9. #29
    It would be hard to control either sandpaper or steel wool to remove the grease/polish and not damage, probably severely, the underlying lacquer. If the intent is to refinish the guiar afterward, then that would not be an issue. My impressoin is that the OP wanted to just get the goo off the op without damaging the lacquer.
    _____________________________________
    1983 F-50R
    1971/72 F-212XL
    1993 DV-52
    1996 DV-6
    2005 GAD 30R

  10. #30
    Super Moderator chazmo's Avatar
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    Kostas, that sounds like a really good idea with the Meguire's. How would this compare to, say, Simonize? Are the abrasives in these products graded somehow so you can tell what you're using?

    Yeah, Neal, gotta' agree sandpaper seems risky. I was going to suggest 0000 wool, but I still think this is risky. I might try it on a small area and see.
    Quote Originally Posted by Neal
    I am going to hang onto this little F-20 and play it as a reminder that life is sometimes rough, but it doesn't necessarily mean that the damage you accrue along the way defines who you are.
    Quote Originally Posted by marcellis
    Growing old is a bitch.
    Guild 12-strings:
    1978 G-312NT (Westerly) - "Franzz",
    1994 JF-30-12Bld (Westerly),
    2006 F-512 (Tacoma),
    2010 F-212XL STD (New Hartford) - "Connie"
    2014 Orpheum 12 OOO SHRW (New Hartford)

    Non-Guild 12s:
    1970 Martin D-12-20
    1980 Ibanez AW-75 (Series I)
    1984 Taylor 655

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