next Oxnard model announced ...

adorshki

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No problem, I was making a sarcastic joke about the skimming as we all have done it. Sorry if it came off as something else and Each to their own.
TX
It did seem to be piled on kinda thick, but ok, I'll talk to ya again.
It'll gimme more opportunities for revenge.
 

txbumper57

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It did seem to be piled on kinda thick, but ok, I'll talk to ya again.
It'll gimme more opportunities for revenge.

He who casts the first cow! LOL! This will make you feel better Al.:encouragement:



TX
 
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adorshki

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HA!
NOW the ultimate counterstroke:
I will withhold my retort, causing my taunter great mental dyscord and perpetual flatulence.
 

steve488

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It would seem to me from a fabrication standpoint that maintaining the alignment if the rim at the neck block is a requirement. As such it makes sense to me that there would be some level of compression between the outer surface of the neck block and the inner surface of the aluminum mold "tool", with the rim sandwiched in between. Using a pair of bolts as shown, would allow both the needed alignment and compression initially. I would expect they are removed once the needed gluing of the rim is complete so that the rim can be removed from the mold. That would still leave the questions however as to whether replacements were used for the neck, or whether wooden pins were placed for alignment or if they were left empty.

To TX & adorshki .... It is just a flesh wound!
 

Rayk

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Love it ! You guys rock and I got all your backs if needed !
 

adorshki

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To TX & adorshki .... It is just a flesh wound!

images


(DRAMA, Moriarty, DRAMA!!
THAT'S what sells newspapers!)
 
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DThomasC

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It would seem to me from a fabrication standpoint that maintaining the alignment if the rim at the neck block is a requirement. As such it makes sense to me that there would be some level of compression between the outer surface of the neck block and the inner surface of the aluminum mold "tool", with the rim sandwiched in between. Using a pair of bolts as shown, would allow both the needed alignment and compression initially. I would expect they are removed once the needed gluing of the rim is complete so that the rim can be removed from the mold. That would still leave the questions however as to whether replacements were used for the neck, or whether wooden pins were placed for alignment or if they were left empty.

To TX & adorshki .... It is just a flesh wound!

Well, yeah, but alignment is what jigs and fixtures are for and clamps have been providing sufficient compression for centuries.

Honestly, I'd find it pretty cheesy if Oxnard is using bolts just to hold the neck block in the fixture and then covering the holes later. And, if they're doing that with the neck block then why not the tail block too? (I haven't seen photos of the tail block, and the nearest M20 to me is a two hour drive across the border in Canada. I don't enjoy crossing the border anymore.)
 

bobouz

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So at this point, do we have actual confirmation re Guild's neck joint on the D-20 & M-20?

The construction details would be very interesting to have outlined, in terms of how successful Guild's method turns out to be down the road (re structural stability).
 

txbumper57

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So at this point, do we have actual confirmation re Guild's neck joint on the D-20 & M-20?

The construction details would be very interesting to have outlined, in terms of how successful Guild's method turns out to be down the road (re structural stability).

Ray said that Guild replied to him and they stated it is a Mortise and Tenon Neck Joint but there has not been any confirmation to my knowledge if it is a Bolt on Mortise and tenon or a Traditional glued in Mortise and tenon.

TX
 

SFIV1967

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...but there has not been any confirmation to my knowledge if it is a Bolt on Mortise and tenon or a Traditional glued in Mortise and tenon.
Maybe that picture helps:

usa_slide4.jpg




Oh, and unrelated but also good to see the truss rod nut:

usa_slide9.jpg


Ralf
 
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kostask

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First picture seems to indicate that this is a bolted mortise and tenon neck joint. The width of the tennon is such that a bolt would have pass comfortably inside the tenon. The height of the lower bolt is necessary due to the neck heel narrowing down, which doesn't allow enough width for the bolt to pass through.
 

Rayk

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Sorry to bring this up but Ivwent to back to Guild with the question of bolts used to secure the neck .

The repily was

"Great question ! These are not bolt on necks . "

Errr ok ....
 

adorshki

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Sorry to bring this up but Ivwent to back to Guild with the question of bolts used to secure the neck .

The repily was

"Great question ! These are not bolt on necks . "
And you didn't ask for a sound clip? :eek:
YOU're slipping, man!
:biggrin-new:
Actually, bottom line, THANK YOU!
Seems like the obvious thing to do, ask, but I'm guessing we've seen so many comments about lack of response to other inquiries that we figured it'd take a while to get an answer, if any.
Good job.
 
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johnny3j

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The way Michael Gurian did it was with 2 tapered ebony pins - one from each side of the neck block, pushed into exactly matching tapered holes with a pair of pincers:

gurianreset24.jpg


gurianreset03.jpg


gurianreset23.jpg


Is that what Oxnard plan on doing?
If so, that to me is a glueless wooden joint (call it mortise & tenon if you like), done in the finest traditions of woodworking - it doesn't mean bolt-on to me.
My Gurian has a heel as opposed to my Taylor which has none and indeed has a bolt-on neck with actual metal bolts.
 

merlin6666

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I visited my luthier this week who is a Guild dealer and has a D20 in his store. The question about neck attachment got him stumped as well, he "assumed" it was a dovetail but wasn't sure. He will also look into this.
 

chazmo

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Merlin, that's cool. I think if Guild says it's not a bolt-on, I'd be really surprised if there are bolts securing that thing. I mean, that'd be a lie, wouldn't it?

Johnny, that's really interesting about the Gurion. I don't think any of the big manufacturers have built necks like that. Really cool. Yeah, gotta' agree, that's not a "bolt-on" by any means. Pretty cool (and easy to repair) way to secure the neck!
 

The Guilds of Grot

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If I can through my two cents in here.

I didn't read the whole thread in depth but I think I have the gist.

Having attended three or four LMG's and therefore factory tours, I believe you all are interpreting the photos incorrectly!

In my opinion what you see in the photos are not the final neck block and tail block. They are clamps to glue the rim halves together!

The next step after this is the installation of the top or back (I forget which they do first) with the kerfing and the real neck and tail blocks.

It looks like this: (Non-Guild photo)

102.JPG


I do remember the worker at this station/work area. He had full sleeve tattoos and about a thousand small binder clips to clamp the kerfing in place!
 
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