'73 F212 "6-String"

eljimb0

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Aloha!
New to this forum, and new to Guild guitars. I was recently gifted a 66 F212 (in parts), neck sans tuners, ...Body, no pickguard, couple of tight cracks.

I am going to a small pacific island for a couple of years and having a project or two is kind of mental security for the time ahead. A person can only catch fish and lay about for so long ...before you become part of an unsustainable lifestyle..(for the rest of the world which I will return to at some point) I think I will thin down the neck, replace the bridge for six strings, Modify the headstock, whatever. I think it would make a good 'go to guitar'. That would be the guitar in the living room with no case that you play 51% of the time.

This is not a primo candidate for a serious restoration. It was probably rescued from some luthier-repair persons pile of ...can't afford to fix/ can't throw away pile. I will start a thread for it here, but first I want to read through the often mentioned "Killdeer conversion thread" (which I can't seem to locate).

Thanks in advance for all yall's help.
Jimbo

I steamed off the bridge. It looks like this is the second time off for it.
 
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I did the same thing with my F-212 back in the 80's. Its really nice to have the best of both worlds in sound in one guitar. I would keep it because you won't find on with the sound the Guild has or you could buy a six string the same body style and have 2. Save a lot of string switching.
 

Christopher Cozad

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Welcome (to both of you)!

It sounds fun, both the tropical island adventure as well as the guitar project. I would mention that the 12 strings are constructed a bit differently than their 6 string counterparts, in part to handle the extra tension. As a result, when thinking about converting them to a 6 string, they can benefit from a heavier gauge string, as they are designed to need a bit more energy to drive the top.
 

eljimb0

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I plan to whittle away some brace wood and thin the top a little. The neck, overtime, moved the spruce top that was under the fingerboard about 1/8 inch into the soundhole. I warmed it up and moved the spruce piece back where it started out in 1966. I'm puzzled how to keep it there? lots of clamps and glue ...ugly amounts.
 

adorshki

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I plan to whittle away some brace wood and thin the top a little. The neck, overtime, moved the spruce top that was under the fingerboard about 1/8 inch into the soundhole. I warmed it up and moved the spruce piece back where it started out in 1966. I'm puzzled how to keep it there? lots of clamps and glue ...ugly amounts.
I seem to recall it's a result of neck pushing heelblock forward as you diagnose.
I assume you're re-setting neck as well, since you say it came in pieces?
So it should stay as stable as the neck set.
Also, here's a member's recap of different bracing patterns he found on his dreadnoughts:
http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/entry.php?14-Guild-dreadnaught-bracing-patterns-1971-1995
and a link to diagrams of same
Even though you have a jumbo sized top, It's been mentioned that the early "popsicle stick" brace which was also used by Martin was intended to help prevent neck diving into top, but didn't really accomplish that, and was replaced by the "heel block extension" and diagonal brces shown in later builds.
Might give you some ideas, depending on what your top looks like underneath. I suspect as a '66 it'll have a popsicle stick too.
 

eljimb0

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Thanks for the perfect response! This axe has the popsicle stick in there, and it failed. I am now inspired to do a better job with this project, ..less bondo more little pieces of wood :)
 

eljimb0

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I was going to use 6 of the original string holes with a new 6 string bridge, but I don't like the width of the 12 string pattern. I'm going to shave the neck down to a Martin D-28 type profile. I guess i'll fill the 12 holes with dowel, ....and start anew.
 
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adorshki

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I was going to use 6 of the original string holes with a new 6 string bridge, but I don't like the width of the 12 string pattern. I'm going to shave the neck down to a Martin D-28 type profile. I guess i'll fill the 12 holes with dowel, ....and start anew.
I forgot to say welcome aboard!
Part of me wants to say "I applaud your inventiveness" but another part of me wants to suggest that it may be more valuable as a restoration instead of a mod, then you might have more flexibility if you want to sell itto fund a different purchase.
I any case, a caution about those necks, with dual truss rods, not sure if narrowing/re-profiling it might not weaken it, even though it won't have as much tension as a "true" 12-er. Anyway, the channel's a lot bigger than a single truss channel, just something else that might be good to know..
Anyway, please have fun and keep us posted!
 

killdeer43

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FWIW, I put a new set of strings on my F112-6 this weekend and it sounds heavenly.
I'm always happy to realize that my idea of converting it was a good one....and I've never bonded as much with any other guitar in 46 years.
:victorious:

Joe
 

Taylor Martin Guild

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I have a few thoughts about this. First of all what gauge strings are you using?
Medium gauge PB strings could give you more bass.

Next, how about experimenting with adding some of the 12 string strings back.
Start with the bass E strings and even try adding the second D string.

My final thought is that I once owned a guitar that lacked bass response. I sold it. The guy that bought it installed a pick up in it.
Plugged in, there is all the bass that he needs.
 

eljimb0

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I'm trying to include some photos of my project, unsuccessfully
 

adorshki

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I'm trying to include some photos of my project, unsuccessfully

They need to be hosted on photo-hosting site like photo-bucket, then you can link to them from here.
When you're creating a post, you can see a square icon in the menu bar, "Insert image".
Clicking on that opens a little window into which you paste the URL of your image on Photobucket, when done, the photo shows up here.
 

wileypickett

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Moderators: "posting photos" is one of the most problematic aspects of the LTG site -- there must be a way to make it simpler, no?

Glenn
 

GuildFS4612CE

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To the right of your picture on photobucket is a list of four URLs.
Choose the fourth one 'IMG' which is for forums
Click on it
It automatically copies
Click on a blank space in your LTG draft and click PASTE
If you are using 'advanced' rather than 'quick' post you can click 'preview post' and you'll see how well you did.

That's all there is to it...copy and paste...never mind all the convoluted suggestions others post...the KISS principle ALWAYS wins.
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ALSO:

Log into your LTG acct
Choose:
-My Account
-My Settings
-General Settings
Scroll down
-Misc Options
Be sure that 'enhanced interface' is checked.

While you're in your acct you can adjust many other settings to suit you.

Note: you can go back and edit your own posts even after posting them.

Now maybe I'll get this to post as the 'public internet' connection just crashed in the middle and I started over from scratch.
 

eljimb0

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Here we are a year and a half later! I am very proud and happy of this re-incarnation F212. It is loud and woody, the action is very workable. It was not easy getting here though. After the initial completion the top began a three month creep back to unplayable. I re-set the neck and then it took about 2 months to become unplayable. (the top did this "s" curve thing) I took off the strings and cursed at it while I played a dreadful sounding plywood import thing. I pulled the upper bout braces off it (with my bare hands and a toenail clipper (and about a month's time) .. I improved their design, It has held tune for 6 months and it is a pleasure to play this fine old axe.
 
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