Differences between Starfire models and their respective eras?

Jupiter

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I've noticed there seems to be a bit of variation in nut widths (and possibly fretboard radius) throughout the '60s. Can anyone shed some light on that? I'm not sure how much thinner I want to get than my standard Gibson and Fender widths.

Also, I don't fully understand the differences between all the Starfire models. I know the difference between the i and ii, but not so much the ii and iii. I know they switch to semi-hollow on the IV, but other than the master volume on the V, what's the difference between it and the IV (or VI for that matter!)?

How different are the Starfires from the Slim Jim?

Sorry for all the questions, my apologies if this topic has been done to death, but I'm having trouble finding good info on this stuff.
 
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Jupiter

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After a bit more exploration I've gathered as much. Is it the same with the IV and V? and what about the nut widths?

Are certain years more coveted than others?
 
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GAD

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Start here: http://www.gad.net/Blog/2010/06/24/guild-electric-guitars/

Buy Hans' book, if you don't already have it.

Yes, a V is a IV with a Guildsby, and sometimes a master volume.

More coveted? That depends on who is doing the coveting.

I prefer the late-90s models because I like the necks better.

I prefer the 70s models because I like the pickups better.

I prefer the mid-90s models because they sometimes have the best picks and necks.

It's all VERY personal, though.

Nut widths in my experience are: all up until early 90s are 1 5/8". After that, 1 11/16", though I'm not sure about the NS models.
 

Stevo

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I just measured the nut width on my 1979 Starfire iv and it's a hair over 1 5/8". I find the neck comparable to a 1970s Les Paul, thicker than a 60 slim taper but definitely not chunky like a Bluesbird. I have big hands and don't find this neck too narrow, in fact I thought it was a 1 11/16" nut until I reached for the calipers.
 

Jupiter

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Thanks for that!! What year did they ship the builds overseas?
 

matsickma

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Early SF4's are also thinner than SF5's. SF5 and SF6 are same body depth. SF5 and 6 have fret block inlays and SF5 have chrome while SF6 has gold hardware. Both have a Master Vol control. Early SF5 & 6 have Bigsbys and on later SF6 the bigsby is an option. In the later years the SF4 has all the features of a 5 but they were called 4's. They came with HB-1s or Dimarzio PAF neck and Super Distortion bridge. In the 80's they came without a pickguard and had XR7 black cover-less pickups with hot ceramic magnets. In the late 80 or early 90's they added a hard tail stop in lieu of the classic Guild Harp tailpiece. In the late 90's they returned with a 70's style and features and came with Semore Duncan version of HB-1 pickups and eventually Fender HB-1's. The Newark Street models return to follow the style and features if the early 60's models and use the mini sized humbucker. What goes around comes around. Confused? Join the crowd. Best way to understand this is to buy Hans book.
 
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Jupiter

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Honestly, I'm a little relieved! I thought I was just dumb and couldn't figure it out on my own, but it sounds like they were a bit confused themselves!
 

fronobulax

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Thanks for that!! What year did they ship the builds overseas?

Wrong question. Newark Street models (circa 2013) are all made in Korea. Every other Starfire was made in the US, although not always the same factory.
 

matsickma

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Just for completeness their was also a SF 7. From a front view it had the body shape and features of a SF 5 but had a deep body, around 2.5 or 3 inches and was fully hollow. In the early 1960's their was also a special model SF5 that was fully hollow and was named after a famous British guitar player whose name escapes me at the moment. See Hans book for more info.


The famous British guitarist was Bert Weedon. I checked out his web site. He passed away in 2012 at age 91. All the great guitarists from the British Invasion reference his influence.
I actually saw material where he discussed guitar string care and proceeded to tell the string thickness on his guitars including his "Guild Bert Weedon" model!

Cool guy. He does recommend a Marshall amplifier with reverb and not to play to loud so as not to cause your amp to distort! LOL.
 
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GAD

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Honestly, I'm a little relieved! I thought I was just dumb and couldn't figure it out on my own, but it sounds like they were a bit confused themselves!

The only proper way to learn about them all is to buy one of each. :)
 
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