Pics of my '71 Guild CE-100

Hi, try to upload some pics of my 71 Guild CE-100.Not the best pics, I will try to make better ones later on. I's in a nice condition, some shrunken binding, but it seems stable. Sounds great. The neck width is very small, but not uncomfortable. Added a bigsby b3 yesterday. Tried a b6 first but that didn't work because of the shallow neck angle, so there wasn't enough string break angle. The b3 works, but I have to notch the bridge an little deeper to prevent the low E and a strings from popping out. But I'm also still thinking about adding a B7. I have an appointment with my tech at the end of the month to have a refret. The original frets are very very low.

Cheers,

Miquel


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That's a very nice looking guitar! You don't have much break angle but there's some there. If you notch the saddles a little deeper then do make sure that they are smooth as glass and use some lubricant

This stuff is good
http://www.bigbends.com/testimonials/index.html
and I've used it with great results.

What gauge strings do you use? A little heavier is always better with a Bigsby - .11 at least and .12 is better.

Very nice! Looks to be in great condition! FYI - the TRC is upside down...

walrus

Thanks guys. Yep very little breakangle so the jury is still out on the bigsby. I would like to have some more breakangle, but the action will get too high if I raise the bridge. It's a bit too high allready. I get some muscle ache when playing right now. Probably a result of the low frets which in combination with low frets requires a bit too much pressure when playing. Getting a refret soon, so hopefully that problem will be solved then. I'm also still debating if a b7 is a better option. I play 0.11's so maybe 0.12 will help to keep the strings in place.

And I will change the trc : )

looks kinda like my new one.

drc said:

looks kinda like my new one.

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Yours looks great as wel Dave! How is the neck angle? Are you also going to bigsbyfy it or do you prefer the harptail?

arrives tomorrow. I will keep the harp on it.

Hey Lester - how much does yours weigh? If you dont have a scale, you can ball park it or give a comparison.

drc said:

Hey Lester - how much does yours weigh? If you dont have a scale, you can ball park it or give a comparison.

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I will try to estimate the weight tonight. It feels light, but stil solid. I'm looking forward to your impressions of the ce-100.

Miquel

I've got a heritage 535 and the average weight is around 3,5 kg. So I guess that the heritage is about 3kg.

Has anybody have a bigsby b7 installed on a hollowbody? As I have little break angle on the bridge because of the shallow neck angle I'm wondering if a b7 will be better. I think that a an increased break angle gaves more pressure on the bridge and therefore a better tone and more accoustic volume. I would like to hear your opinions.

Lester, I personally don't recall B7's on hollowbodies. I thought I recollected another recent thread about B7's, but it's on a SFIV, which is a semi-hollow:

http://www.letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?180059-Bigsby-mod-for-my-Starfire-5

Lester13 said:

I've got a heritage 535 and the average weight is around 3,5 kg. So I guess that the heritage is about 3kg.

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Sorry, I meant that the guild will be around 3 kg.

Did your CE 100 arrive Dave?

Interesting story about the SF IV and the b7. I think that a b7 on the CE 100 will be fine. My guess is that the break angle of the strings won't be that steep, because of the distance from the bigsby to the bridge.

Lester13 said:

Did your CE 100 arrive Dave?

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Being delivered this morning..

UPDATE

It arrived safe and sound. Looks like it has been played allot, but well cared for. The Finish on the back of the neck is almost gone completely.. its smooth and very, very nice! Can't wait to plug her in when I get home!

Lester13 said:

Has anybody have a bigsby b7 installed on a hollowbody? As I have little break angle on the bridge because of the shallow neck angle I'm wondering if a b7 will be better. I think that a an increased break angle gaves more pressure on the bridge and therefore a better tone and more accoustic volume. I would like to hear your opinions.

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Sorry to hear that the B3 didn't work out for you. I was hoping the shorter body on it would help. I don't recall seeing a B7 on a full depth hollowbody and it seems to be generally true that a lot of Guilds archtops and semi hollows have shallow neck angles. If you go the B7 route then keep in mind the top of your guitar isn't very thick and the tension roller bar on the B7 does cause a fair amount of upward pull. The screws that come with it are meant for biting through the top and center fill of a semi hollow or solid and they won't have the material to dig into on your CE100D. If you decide to drill the top for the B7 it might be worth using a small bolt with a nut and lock washer on the inside instead of just the wood screws. You could remove the bridge pickup and get underneath to get a wrench on the nut - maybe.

I added a B7 to my 1969 Starfire IV a few years ago. I took my time and measured thrice and drilled once. It came out great but the tension bar causes a lot of well tension so the action is a lot tighter than that the Gretsch I had at the time.

Read this interesting thread from another LTGer for some discussion on that topic
http://letstalkguild.com/ltg/showthread.php?180059-Bigsby-mod-for-my-Starfire-5

Here a pic from 2009 when I added the B7 to my guitar.

i'll keep the advise in mind. The Guild is going to my repairman next saturday so I'll discuss it with him. I think that it should be possible. I had an Epiphone ES-295 with a import version of the B7. I also put one on an Epiphone ES-5. But being modern guitars, maybe their tops were thicker. I often see asian full size hollowbodies with b7's.

Deleted.
Ralf

SFIV1967 said:

The Guild Newark St. CE-100D comes like this, as you see the Guildsby B-2 (or Bigsby B-6) is longer compared to the short Bigsby B-3!

That's what you need: http://www.goodeguitars.com/VIB-004.htm

Ralf

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Hi Ralf, I tried a b6 first. But because of the shallow neck angle I couldn't get any breakangle on the bridge. Only if I put the bridge way up at an unplayable height, I can get a light breakangle. The b3 was a better option as it sits a bit further away from the bridge, so I had a better breakangle with the bridge at a lower level, but unfortunately still to high. A neck reset would be another option. But that will cost a lot of money and there is no need for it as there are nu issues with the neck besides the shallow angle. On the other hand, a b7 requires drilling the top so it's irreversible and it will therefore influence the value I'm afraid. Not that it is a very rare and valuable guitar, but still. On the other hand I have no plans selling it as it will be very hard to find another vintage american made archtop for a the price I've paid.

Lester13 said:

I tried a b6 first.

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Oh, I am sorry, I didn't see your comment in the very first post that you already tried the B6. My fault...
Ralf