Guild D-50NT question

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I looked at a 1978 Guild D-50NT guitar for sale today that is in absolutely pristine condition. It looked basically brand new and sounded fantastic! It was stored in a hard-shell case and unstrung for most of it's life. The owner wasn't exactly sure what type of rosewood and spruce this guitar was constructed with. He said that he was told it was Brazilian Rosewood when he purchased it new but really didn't know the difference at the time and isn't really sure now. It had serial number something like 178660 (close to this anyway). Does anyone know if this guitar was made with Brazilian or Indian Rosewood? Sitka or Adirondack Spruce?
 

killdeer43

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First of all, WELCOME TO LTG!
My vote would be that it's East Indian rosewood and Sitka spruce. Others will be along shortly to confirm or deny.
You say that you "looked at it," did you buy it? Inquiring minds want to know. :eagerness:

Cheers,
Joe
 

GardMan

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I'll vote with Joe. It is VERY unlikely that a '78 D-50 has either BRW and Adirondack spruce (tho' there have been a few '75s with BRW sides, and maybe even back, reported as late as '75 by reliable sources). I don't think Guild used any Adirondack spruce until the move to Tacoma. I've got a '76... great guitar!

Oh... and "Welcome to LTG!"
 

adorshki

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I don't think Guild used any Adirondack spruce until the move to Tacoma. I've got a '76... great guitar!
Just for the sake of corroborration that'd be my take on it too. We've had some threads recently discussing the question and the well-informed input was that Adirondack spruce was a very scarce and uncommon topwood at the time, in fact, virtually unavailable.
We haven't found concrete evidence Guild ever used it in the '60's, but there's a lot of circumstantial evidence as to why they wouldn't have.
It didn't see a resurgence in popularity until the "boutique" makers started coming on the scene in the '90's.
With Brazilian rosewood the issue was Brazil clamping down on export of the wood in the late '60's. Martin stopped using it in '69, anything after that from anybody would have been made using old stockpiled wood, and that would be more likely to be used in the highest-end instruments like D55's or the occasional D50 as Gardman mentions.
It's also been mentioned that simple visual analysis isn't a highly reliable method of identifying whether a sample is EIR or "Braz", but Braz does have a reputation of being more highly "figured" that EIR. If the grain patterns are fairly tight and close without a lot of "waviness", that would tend to indicate EIR , if they're pretty wavy and spectacular it would tend to indicate "braz". Also braz can have a spectrum of colors ranging from bright red to almost black grain, EIR less likely to show that dark of a grain pattern.
Also braz is supposed to have a sweet smell but not sure if that'd still be detectable after 50 years.
In counterpoint, ain't nuthin' "wrong" with EIR and sitka, the way Guild makes 'em.
:wink:
Oh... and "Welcome to LTG!"
Yeah! What he said!
:smile:
 

Kitarkus

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I joined the Let's Talk Guild forum last February and have lurked a bit. Great information and a seemingly great group of people here! I'd hoped to find an old D40-D50 for myself and this forum provided me good information.

The serial number on this guitar is certainly 178660. I know this because I purchased this guitar on Friday afternoon!

Well this is certainly a small world! I'd been looking for a Hoboken or Westerly D40/D50 for a LOOONG time but have been unable to procure a good one at an acceptable price. I wasn't picky about the Hog vs. Rosy given that I couldn't find EITHER one in acceptable condition and price. I already own a feather light "keeper" custom martin adirondack/rosewood so I was hoping for a D40. This particular 1978 D50 was advertised in my local Craigslist for $2500!! After a month long listing I contacted the seller and investigated his asking price. After some days/weeks of texts and phone calls/messages he agreed to bring the guitar for me to see. I noticed that he'd reduced the asking price to $1800 that same day. It is indeed a lovely D50. I'm pretty particular about my guitars and would reserve the word "pristine" for dead mint guitars. That said, this 35 year old D50 has a very straight neck, nice saddle and bridge height, good action, and no cracks. There is one small ding on the top and only a few faint marks on the rosewood back. The nut had been replaced sometime in the early 80's with a bone nut as the original bone nut had cracked. The bridge pins and end/strap pin were replaced with white plastic with abalone detail (blah). The top is nicely silked and the back is a nice piece of rosewood. This one has typical fret wear particularly at the first 3-4 frets...and some typical fret board wear in these areas as well. One of the rear rosewood upper bouts has some small "bubbles" under the finish that can be seen in reflected light. I won't call this "pristine", however, it is the best vintage D50 that I'd personally come across. He has it strung with coated D/addario 16's...and I look forward to restringing with EJ17's today/tomorrow. It sounds, feels, and plays great. The previous owner had waxed? or buffed? or shined this puppy up pretty dramatically so I'm still wiping her down before/after each play to remove the unnecessary junk.

A pal had lent me his 1974 D35 prior. His D35 was beat to absolute hell...had a dowel stuck in the strap pin hole where electronics had been previously removed, and had a cracked side. This D35 had little saddle left and by any player standard would be considered in "beater" condition. All this...and DAMN....what a great guitar! I know what he paid for it (very little) and I really wanted him to sell it to me. My pal also realized that this D35 "beater" was about the best guitar in its price class that he's come across (and he goes through a LOT of guitars). I'm not drawn to the Fender built Guilds though they may be some mighty fine guitars. So my search was on.

I'm pleased that the owner sold the guitar to me. It was a bit of a battle given his original (and even revised) asking price. This guitar is clearly Sitka and East Indian Rosewood. I paid a fair/reasonable price for the guitar but I certainly did not get a great bargain. It came with a 70's Martin like thermoplastic case. I'm pleased to have finally found a solid vintage Guild to play around with. Despite its cleanliness....this guitar has mojo to spare.

I had to share with you....I was shocked to see the post....then compare to my serial #...small world.

Jason
 

GardMan

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Another "Welcome to LTG!" to Kitarkus!

Enjoy your new old D-50!
 

Neal

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Congratulations. D-50'S are real thoroughbreds.

I have both a D-35 and a D-50 from the '70's, and they are drastically different guitars. The D-35 is a bit more reserved, a bit "sweeter" sounding, less "in your face" than the D-50, which is all about power and sustain and just big, big, big sound.

Not that the D-35 can't get loud. It just has a lighter feel to it. I love both.
 

Kitarkus

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The OP might not be as pleased to read your review as the rest of us are.

Well...I certainly do not wish to rub my good fortune in another posters face. I've been on the butt end of being too late to purchase a guitar that I wanted several times.
Frankly...I had the feeling that the OP may have been the seller...seeking some advice on his guitar prior to selling. The seller had mentioned this forum to me when we had met...so perhaps you all inspired him to understand the liklihood of adirondack and braz on this 1978. The seller was IMO a bit misguided as to the value of the D50 and to its wood species.
When he arrived to show me the guitar...he had already come to terms with the EIR vs. Braz and Adi vs. Sitka debate. He'd also become a bit more realistic as to its value. Given his asking price...I had no illusions that I was going to be purchasing this guitar...a man must have some limits (not to mention common sense).

Thanks to all for the warm welcome. I hope to have not offended the OP. Have a great eve.

Jason
 
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adorshki

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The OP might not be as pleased to read your review as the rest of us are.
With all due sympathy hopefully he can chalk it up to "live and learn", the way some folks have had to live with "the one they wish they hadn't sold"......
He'll be that much better educated when the next one comes along.
 

adorshki

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Well...I certainly do not wish to rub my good fortune in another posters face. I've been on the butt end of being too late to purchase a guitar that I wanted several times.
Frankly...I had the feeling that the OP may have been the seller...Thanks to all for the warm welcome. I hope to have not offended the OP. Have a great eve.
Jason
Oh, I missed that on the first pass.
It occurs to me that if the OP was actually the seller posing as prospective buyer he may have been simply attempting to avoid dealing with a bunch of "lowball " offers from eager members here. If he doesn't know us too well I can't say I'd blame him for that.
I'd say I haven't noticed any typically "snarky" expressions of illwill on either of your parts. Your simple courtesy is well-respected and it's rarely misinterpreted around here.
In any case, congratulations to you sir!!
:smile:
 
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Kitarkus

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Oh, I missed that on the first pass.
It occurs to me that if the OP was actually the seller posing as prospective buyer he may have been simply attempting to avoid dealing with a bunch of "lowball " offers from eager members here. If he doesn't know us too well I can't say I'd blame him for that.
I'd say I haven't noticed any typically "snarky" expressions of illwill on either of your parts. Your simple courtesy is well-respected and it's rarely misinterpreted around here.
In any case, congratulations to you sir!!
:smile:

You missed that on the first pass because I edited and added that information after my initial posting...likely after your first read. I hesitated to express my opinion on the source of that post because I did not want to offend the poster should he/she have been a legit potential buyer. After the seller mentioned "Let's Talk Guild Forum"....well....my mind kinda put things together a bit. I may be right....but I may be wrong. The fact that the poster has no followups lends some credence (at least to me) that I may have been spot on. I also found it hard to believe that a "legit buyer" would have been considering the guitar at the sellers $2500 list price.

Anywho...I'm sure pleased with the guitar...and equally pleased to have you Guildsters to guide me with your infinite knowledge! I need to get some good information on proper sized bridge pin replacements from you all...but I'll save that for another thread. Should that post be in this forum?....or is one of the other forums a more appropriate place?

Thanks again!
 

adorshki

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Anywho...I'm sure pleased with the guitar...and equally pleased to have you Guildsters to guide me with your infinite knowledge! I need to get some good information on proper sized bridge pin replacements from you all...but I'll save that for another thread. Should that post be in this forum?....or is one of the other forums a more appropriate place?
Thanks again!
Yuo're welcome! Form me at least.
As for bridge pin specs I guess technically it could go on "Fix it or Sell It" in the technical forum but we're not big sticklers about that kind of stuff. You might actually get more views here anyway.
I seem to recall the gist of it is that Guild's specs were subject to change over time and your best bet is to measure what you got if you're pretty sure they're original, then contact someone like Bob Colosi for replacements. Another great tip is to buy 'em slightly oversize and wrap a piece of real fine grit sandpaper around 'em to get 'em down to "just right" as opposed to all the risks associated with reaming out the pin holes themselves. :wink:
In fact I even recall somebody recently (last 30 days or so) did find and post some specs here, you might want to try a search for it.
 

Kitarkus

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your best bet is to measure what you got if you're pretty sure they're original, then contact someone like Bob Colosi for replacements. Another great tip is to buy 'em slightly oversize and wrap a piece of real fine grit sandpaper around 'em to get 'em down to "just right" as opposed to all the risks associated with reaming out the pin holes themselves. :wink:
In fact I even recall somebody recently (last 30 days or so) did find and post some specs here, you might want to try a search for it.

Brilliant! Thank you!
 
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