2000 westerly starfire iv vs. 2013 starfire iv newark st.

I'm in the market for a semi-hollow body, to replace my awful rickenbacker copy that is falling apart.
I'm looking for something with a cleaner, creamier tone than my 1997 Lone Star Strat (which doesn't like being played gently).
I plan on heading to a few local stores to try out the new Starfire IV, and a 2000 Westerly Starfire IV (which is advertised for about $400 more).
I like the stop bridge on the 2000 Westerly as opposed to the harp tailpiece on the new models...unless my concerns about bridge movement are unfounded.

My questions:
a) is there anything I should pay particular attention to when trying out the 2000 model?
b) What serial number should I expect on that guitar?
c) is there a large difference in build quality between the 2000 westerly and new models?
d) is $1500 a reasonable price for the 2000, assuming it is mint condition as advertised?

Any advice is appreciated. I feel silly posting not having touched these guitars yet, but I wanted some advice before heading out. Thanks...

I know default has several Starfires including a NS Starfire. He might have comments when he finishes work today.

Not sure why serial number to expect is useful. I do note that the standard reference for Guild serials doesn't cover 2000-2005. I'd hazard a guess that you could look at the 1999 serials and project the same "pattern" into 2000 but you probably have to get the serial, post it here and see if Hans Moust or anyone else has comments based upon the number.

From my reading on this site, I know that the Fender HB PU's that a 2000 SF4 likely has are not very highly thought of. This is, of course, personal taste.
My '96 SF4 has the SD-1 PU's, which I like quite a bit.

My advice is to play them both with an open mind. I have a Westerly with SD-1s and a Newark Street and they are totally different guitars. The Westerly is heavier, so you might like that if you play very loud. The frets seem to be taller on the NS Starfire. The SD-1s are different sounding than the mini-buckers and the NS is lighter and more resonant.
Play them both and see what floats your boat.

.... and welcome! (unless I'm mistaken I see a first post here)

AG000937 was the last SN listed for 1999, but that is not totally reliable. Others out here may be able to tell you the range for the year 2000 to verify that what you are looking at is in fact from that year. As for which is better, Default gave you good advice. Although different than the Guild HB-1, and very different from the Newark Street Anti-Hum pickups, which are an exact reproduction of the pups used in the late Hoboken/early Westerly days (up to late 1970, I believe), the late Westerly (2000) pups have their place. Also, there are absolutely no quality issues that I know of with SF-4's from 2000, and the new models appear very good as well. In fact, I believe the guitar in the following video is of the late Westerly/Corona vintage, but I don't know for certain. The NS will probably be a little less expensive at around 1K, and lighter. The 2000 model in mint, all original condition could probably be had for $1250 give or take, but if you try it and really like it $1500 is not totally unreasonable. Best of luck, and welcome to LTG!

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BJ91QqkS9MQ

Thanks for the advice (and the welcome).
I'll try and play both tomorrow.
Last question: is the floating bridge on the NS pretty stable? I don't play particularly hard but I do a fair bit of damping with my right hand and often rest on the bridge.

Well, Default is certainly a wise man. I played the westerly and was not really feeling it. ended up at a phenomenal independent store in New London CT (Spindrift Guitars), and walked out with a Reverend PA-1 RT.

Leroy said:

Thanks for the advice (and the welcome).
I'll try and play both tomorrow.
Last question: is the floating bridge on the NS pretty stable? I don't play particularly hard but I do a fair bit of damping with my right hand and often rest on the bridge.

Click to expand...

I haven't had any problems with the floater on my '65 SF IV. The string tension keeps it in place. If you do any drop tuning, well...

I have a 2000 Starfire and it's one of my favorite guitars. I've owned a lot of Guilds, including something like 10 Starfires including many 70s models. The one I've kept is the 2000. Fantastic guitar.

Yes, I did have the pickups rewound.