Hi again Adam.
I gotta agree with everyone about the power cord. Unless you play in a wet basement with one bare foot resting on a grounded water pipe, the chance of a fatal shock is unlikely, but the chance does exist. I wouldn't encourage anyone who has no experience in electronics to open up a tube amp and start melting solder joints, but for the price of an hour of shop labor, you might consider buying a good "how-to" book, a soldering iron, and spend some time learning how to do it. Tino Zottola was written a good series of books for the non-amp tech, which cover tube amp theory, safety, repair, and building amps from scratch. The safety and testing sections are invaluable. Even if you end up paying a tech to replace the power cord, the Theory/Repair book will help you understand how the amp works, and help trouble shoot when it doesn't.
In my humble opinion, if you like the "dark, creepy" sound of your amp, if the speakers aren't buzzing and the amp isn't humming,I wouldn't change a thing except for the power cord. I've experimented with alot of different amps and speakers, and I think original, vintage speakers almost always sound better. Those CTS 10's play a big part in that "dark, creepy" sound. The only reason I used the Celestions is because my T-1 came with NO speakers, and I just happened to have a pair of Vintage 10's in the shop. If you just GOTTA replace the speakers, I agree with capnjuan regarding the Webers. Best sounding, new production speakers you can buy ( I think), and they're on sale this month, too.
Capnjuan, I've been playing the amp alot lately, but finally took the amp out of the cab this AM to measure the HV secondary. It came right up to 285 VAC WRTG on pins 1 and 7. I must have blown the cobwebs out, cause it's
working fine now. I'll keep you up-to date with my Tremolo fix.
In regards to the 4 x 40 uF cap can, in practice I never use filter caps rated less than 450 volts when I build new amps or recap an older amp. However, the original Cornell-Dublier 4 x 40 uF cap I removed from my T-1 was rated at 350/300/300/300 volts. This make sense, since the SCHEMATIC calls for four 40uF caps rated AT 350/300/300/300 volts. Since the schematic also shows a primary voltage up to 125 AC, I think it's safe to say that a new replacement cap rated at 350/350/350/350 would be at least as good and as safe as the original.
Enjoy the amp, Adam. And thanks to everyone for the chit-chat. I really enjoy this forum. -Powdog
"Your cool if you don't know it, and if you know it then you ain't" -E.W.
I gotta agree with everyone about the power cord. Unless you play in a wet basement with one bare foot resting on a grounded water pipe, the chance of a fatal shock is unlikely, but the chance does exist. I wouldn't encourage anyone who has no experience in electronics to open up a tube amp and start melting solder joints, but for the price of an hour of shop labor, you might consider buying a good "how-to" book, a soldering iron, and spend some time learning how to do it. Tino Zottola was written a good series of books for the non-amp tech, which cover tube amp theory, safety, repair, and building amps from scratch. The safety and testing sections are invaluable. Even if you end up paying a tech to replace the power cord, the Theory/Repair book will help you understand how the amp works, and help trouble shoot when it doesn't.
In my humble opinion, if you like the "dark, creepy" sound of your amp, if the speakers aren't buzzing and the amp isn't humming,I wouldn't change a thing except for the power cord. I've experimented with alot of different amps and speakers, and I think original, vintage speakers almost always sound better. Those CTS 10's play a big part in that "dark, creepy" sound. The only reason I used the Celestions is because my T-1 came with NO speakers, and I just happened to have a pair of Vintage 10's in the shop. If you just GOTTA replace the speakers, I agree with capnjuan regarding the Webers. Best sounding, new production speakers you can buy ( I think), and they're on sale this month, too.
Capnjuan, I've been playing the amp alot lately, but finally took the amp out of the cab this AM to measure the HV secondary. It came right up to 285 VAC WRTG on pins 1 and 7. I must have blown the cobwebs out, cause it's
working fine now. I'll keep you up-to date with my Tremolo fix.
In regards to the 4 x 40 uF cap can, in practice I never use filter caps rated less than 450 volts when I build new amps or recap an older amp. However, the original Cornell-Dublier 4 x 40 uF cap I removed from my T-1 was rated at 350/300/300/300 volts. This make sense, since the SCHEMATIC calls for four 40uF caps rated AT 350/300/300/300 volts. Since the schematic also shows a primary voltage up to 125 AC, I think it's safe to say that a new replacement cap rated at 350/350/350/350 would be at least as good and as safe as the original.
Enjoy the amp, Adam. And thanks to everyone for the chit-chat. I really enjoy this forum. -Powdog
"Your cool if you don't know it, and if you know it then you ain't" -E.W.