Fitting a CE-100DP with a Bigsby?

tmoll

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Lots of good advice on this topic here. I recently acquired an X-500T Palladin that the previous owner had replaced the factory bridge with a roller bridge because of intonation issues. It fixed the intonation issue, but here's something else to beware of if you are thinking about doing this. Make some careful measurements first!
On my guitar, the height of the roller bridge mechanism is a LOT taller than the factory bridge. Even with some of the wood shaved off of the base, and adjusting it all the way down, the resulting action is still higher than I like. I'm figuring out how to rectify this. As someone else stated, the edges of the factory metal base are VERY sharp, and will have a good chance of scratching the guitar with the least little movement, so I don't want to re-use it. I'm looking for a Tun-a-matic on an ebony base with a low profile.
Tom
 

Walter Broes

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Here's the gotoh ABR-1 copy on my X175 :
IMG_2470.jpg
 

carljoensson

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Walter Broes said:
Here's the gotoh ABR-1 copy on my X175 :
IMG_2470.jpg


Thanks, it looks good!

Could anyone enlighten me about the difference in appearance between Nickel and Chrome? It seems Gotoh T-O-M's are available in both.

/C
 
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carljoensson said:
Could anyone enlighten me about the difference in appearance between Nickel and Chrome? It seems Gotoh T-O-M's are available in both. /C

Nickel is warmer toned, and duller. Chrome, to me, is too cold and bright -- it looks garish and cheap.
 

gilded

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Smiert Spionam said:
Gilded,

Most recently, I've had work done by Bill Giebitz. He did the frets and bridge on the X-440, refretted my ES-175D, and did a refret, neck reset, and some bracing work on an old L-00. His shop always has some very cool stuff in process -- herringbone Martins, vintage archtops, etc. He's phenomenal -- I'd trust him implicitly with any vintage guitar. I also like the feel of his fretwork -- nice shape, well-crowned, perfect fret ends over binding, etc.

He's not cheap, and can get pretty backed up -- but for a premium guitar it's worth it.

He works out of a home shop, but mostly uses South Austin Guitars for his storefront (although for special stuff you may be able to deal with him directly).

I've also had a couple of guitars worked on by Chris Forshage, who recently moved his shop up north -- somewhere around Pflugerville, I think (he used to be on North Loop across from the Music Exchange). He did refrets on my first Guild (a '53 X-50) and the CE-100D that Bill D. Light now has. Also excellent work -- maybe not at BG's level of vintage restoration craft, but quite good. A bit more affordable, too. He also builds some amazing archtops and electrics of his own.

SS, thanks for the info. I'm up in Fort Worth. I've heard a lot about Bill Giebetz, and also a guy named Ed Reynolds (though I don't know if Ed's in Austin anymore).

I have another friend in Austin who used to work for Michael Stevens in Austin a million years ago. He still does fine work, every now and then, but sad to say he's Fallen from Grace by becoming a Mathematics Professor at some of the local college campuses. It's such a terrible story, I'd rather not use his name on the Internet....... :wink:

I use a couple of guys up here in the general Fort Worth area, Kerry Cash in Bedford and Mark Cigainero in Fort Worth.

Mark and I have done a lot of work together, from re-topping a '57 D-28 with Adirondack and advanced-X bracing, re-bracing an acoustic Super 400C (someone butchered it when they threw in Humbuckers; ruined the bracing, causing the top to fail, etc.) to tons of refrets, neck sets, bridge replacements, etc. Lots of refins, lots of touch-ups. Mark really understands how to put busted-up wood back together.

I'm bringing the G312 that I got in the mail today over to him in a few minutes, to reglue the bridge and do a basic set up.
The most recent repairs he's done for me are: plane and refret the neck on a '53 175D, resetting the neck on a Guild
JS II bass, pulling white Krylon spray paint off of a '66 Starfire Bass (see, Guild content!!) and putting a Framus archtop back together for me (talk about Bad Habits).

Kerry is a wonderful repairman, too. His fret jobs are absolutely great, as well as a broad skill set that includes neck sets, crack repair, brace repair, etc. He does a fair amount of small area finish work (I don't think he's set up for complete refinishes, though typically he'll work out a deal with Mark to do that for his customers; both of these guys have been good friends for 30 years), plus he's restored almost as many discombobulated, torn-up old flat tops as Mark. My fave story is the one where he restored the LG-2 that landed in a tree in a tornado...... His web address is:

http://www.kerrysguitarshop.com/

You might want to check him out.

Both of 'em do a fair amount of work for out of state customers. I guess their repair rates are lower than the National Standard, so it works out for shops to ship Fender necks for fret jobs, etc. Go figure.

One out-of-state collector sent Mark a '30's O-18 about six months ago for a neck reset. Turned out the neck had already been reset, but the job failed because the 'Original Repairman' used lined notebook paper for the dovetail shims (I guess he should have used 'unlined'). Right now, the same collector has a D'Angelico style B over at Mark's for a 'look-see' at an old Neck Break.

Okay, sorry for the thread hijacking. Back to Bigsbys..........
 

dklsplace

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gilded said:
Turned out the neck had already been reset, but the job failed because the 'Original Repairman' used lined notebook paper for the dovetail shims ..........

:shock:

I suppose the paper could've been made using mahogany pulp? :?
 

carljoensson

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Smiert Spionam said:
carljoensson said:
Could anyone enlighten me about the difference in appearance between Nickel and Chrome? It seems Gotoh T-O-M's are available in both. /C

Nickel is warmer toned, and duller. Chrome, to me, is too cold and bright -- it looks garish and cheap.


Great thanks! Nickel it is then!

/C
 

carljoensson

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Hi everybody again,

Well, so the B2 Bigsby ended on 363 dollars on Ebay, when it was over 200 with four hours left I found it easy not to join in. I'm going for a B6 from some Ebayshop (there are many) for approx 125 dollar plus a Gotoh Tune-O-Matic bridge from StewMac for 21. With shipping and all to Sweden I'll end up around 170 dollars. Which is half of what I would pay here in Sweden. If the customs grab the package I'll still be saving money.

Thanks everybody for helping out with good advice! If anyone knows of any place cheaper I'll be glad to know!(Ooh? It seems Elderly Instruments are selling B6 for 112 bucks)

Cheers,

Carl
 

krysh

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welcome on board from germany, carl.

interesting topic and nice guitar. btw my drummers surname is also joensson :)
 

Darryl Hattenhauer

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My opinion, get a roller bridge with a wooden base and avoid the aluminum bigsby bridge. Eventually, it's going to dig into the finish and you don't want that to happen.
That's great advice. I'm going to follow it.

Yay P och Carl:
Varfor ar tv battre i Holland an i Sverige?
Darfor att Holland har manga flera kanaler.

Nar sajer Indianerna "God morgon"?
Nar dom har lart sig Svenska.

Everybody else,
Those jokes are so old and dumb that you don't want them translated.
 

jp

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Darryl Hattenhauer said:
My opinion, get a roller bridge with a wooden base and avoid the aluminum bigsby bridge. Eventually, it's going to dig into the finish and you don't want that to happen.
That's great advice. I'm going to follow it.

Yay P och Carl:
Varfor ar tv battre i Holland an i Sverige?
Darfor att Holland har manga flera kanaler.

Nar sajer Indianerna "God morgon"?
Nar dom har lart sig Svenska.

Everybody else,
Those jokes are so old and dumb that you don't want them translated.
Visste inte att du kunde lite svenksa, Darryl! :wink:
 

Default

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I've got a roller coming as a trade so I'll report back on my experiences with that type of bridge.
 

matsickma

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Hi danerectal,

Your choice is a good one. This is the model bridge that was used on the later built Westerly SF5's and the SF4's with Bigsby's that came out of the Guild Custom shop.

M
 

carljoensson

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Hi again,
My Bigsbyproject isn't really going that fast. But it's on its way. I won a used (though brand new) B6CBDE Bigsby on Ebay for 85 dollars including shipping. The previous owner took it off a new Gretsch because he wanted gold hardware. Now I'll just have to get a TOM-bridge and I'll be off to the local luthier to let him do the job.

However, the Bigsby seems a bit too new and shiny for my battered 62' Guild. Does anyone know of a way to make it age 45 years really quick?

Thanks,

carl
 

Darryl Hattenhauer

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I've heard that you can rub chrome with vinegar to make the chrome look duller and older. But I wouldn't try it unless somebody here who actually knows says it works.
 

Default

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carljoensson said:
Hi again,
My Bigsbyproject isn't really going that fast. But it's on its way. I won a used (though brand new) B6CBDE Bigsby on Ebay for 85 dollars including shipping. The previous owner took it off a new Gretsch because he wanted gold hardware. Now I'll just have to get a TOM-bridge and I'll be off to the local luthier to let him do the job.

However, the Bigsby seems a bit too new and shiny for my battered 62' Guild. Does anyone know of a way to make it age 45 years really quick?

Thanks,

carl

Give it kids?
 
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