Guild Thunder 1 RVT : Fix-'Em-Up Part 1

coastie99

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Unfortunately, here's what some cretin at USPS manages to achieve, on the way to Newsyland.................

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capnjuan

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Makin' me start crying all over .... :cry: :cry: ... and then I think about buffoon who couldn't be bothered with taking care of someone else's stuff...
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
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Nice job on Your Thunder 1 RVT I have 2 of these amps and one has a non-original reverb pan that does not sound right. What replacement pan did you use in yours?
Thanks Glenn
 

coastie99

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Champlifier said:
Nice job on Your Thunder 1 RVT I have 2 of these amps and one has a non-original reverb pan that does not sound right. What replacement pan did you use in yours?
Thanks Glenn

Hello Glenn.

Cap'n Juan did the electronics work on the amp., I'm responsible only for the cosmetics.
It has an "Accutronics" pan in it. I cannot remember if Cap'n told me it is original or not.
 
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It does not look original compared to mine. I would like to get another "correct spec." tank and don't know which one to order or how to determine what model matches my correct/original tank. If anyone knows how to test or measure someting on my correct tanki please let me know. These amps have great (((reverb)))!
Thanks, Glenn
 

capnjuan

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Hi Coastie: I don't remember the 8-character pan identifier but if I recall, my friend Zach printed it on the top of the can. Maybe next time you have the lower back panel off, you can shine a flashlight in there and copy the numbers down.

Hi Glenn: the can is speaker-coupled reliably ID'ing 8 ohms as the input impedance; no good guess on the output impedance. The schematic indicates '4F' which I believe is Gibbs/Hammond-speak. The can in Coastie's amp is not original equipment ... oh no ... that would be too easy but it works and works well. The rest of the Accutronics ID nomenclature has to do with mounting / input orientation and type of connections but maybe w/ the '4F' ID, Accutronics can help you. PM or email w/ email addie for T1 schematic.

cj
 

capnjuan

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coastie99 said:
Model number is 4FR3D1B. http://www.accutronicsreverb.com/ Don't see my number listed though.
Hi Coastie: if your 'R' above were supposed to be a 'B', then it would make sense; the can that's in there was a spare from my friend in Philadelphia; other than '4F' there's no way to know what the characteristics of the original were except to say that I think it has to be 8 ohm input impedance.

See Default's link (Thanks Steve); takes you to a page laying out significance of ID sequence. I'm not sure of distinction between isoloated and insulated as used on Accutronics page but I think they are talking about whether the ground side, at input and output, is grounded to the can or insulated from the can. The way your T1 is wired now, the can is not insulated from ground in/out.
 

coastie99

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My mistake.

Should be 4FB........ bottom of B is missing suggesting R at casual glance.

I searched the Accutronics page before I posted the reference; spotted the code-explanation.
 

capnjuan

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Thank you; your can works but possibly not as well as one built to the circuit. Like I said, my man Zach couldn't get a peep out of the original and put something in that would work. FWIW, there's no connection between weak output and the characteristics of the tank. When the T1 is running the way you'd like, perhaps taking a shot with a different tank. As you've seen; there's nothing to them; screw them down, and connect w/ existing in/out cables. However unless the speaker baffle is removed, there will be some knucklebusting involved. I put that one in when the baffle was out allowing access to the screws on the front side. If the 12" speaker is in place, access is ... ahem ... hindered...
 

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Just to dredge up an old topic, when going through old emails, one of the guys on the M-V list was talking about an EKO with 6gw8s that sounded wimpy. He removed the negative feedback from the speaker and it got a lot ballsier.

Like I said, if someone sees a beater copy of one of these amps floating around, let me know.
 

capnjuan

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Back check of the T1 RVT schematic indicates it doesn't use NFB ... Hans says Coastie's pc is messed up ... mine doesn't do well if I spill a Heinie on the keyboard ... but his T1 RVT is due for a trip to his techman to replace the bass pot which ought to boost output considerably. Someone [without naming names] may have put the wrong value pot in to replace the one crushed by over-tightening the faceplate retaining nut.
 

capnjuan

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Nice! I'm sure he'll appreciate it .... no telling when he might make it back; will it keep?
 
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