Where to for repairs? F47 CE

[jte]

OK, gang. I need some assistance.

My F47-CE (a mahogany one) is from about 2001. I got it new and it's been well cared for. Just yesterday I noticed that the action was a bit high, and the neck has almost no relief. So I checked the top, and the bridge is just barely starting to lift from the tail side. I slip a sheet of standard copy paper between the bridge and the face. It goes in about 1/16" or less.

So, who's good at repairing acoustic flat tops, and does anyone know the warranty position of FMIC on seven year old guitars.

No Guild dealers that I know of within 100 miles of Corn Country Illinois, and even Fender dealers are far away.

Thanks, gang!

jte

 

[Dr. Spivey]

If you bought the guitar new it has a lifetime warranty to the original owner. I'd call or email Guild for the location of the nearest dealer, as their dealer network is changing a lot lately, and the list on the website may not be up to date. Also they may have some repair centers that are not dealers. If the guitar needs to go to Nashville for repair there will most likely be a 4-8 week wait.

 

[GardMan]

I don't think 1/16" of paper under the bridge is a major worry... from conversations with several different luthiers (and here), Guild would attach their briges after the top was finished (to an unfinished spot that had been masked off). Often the finish would extend a small distance under the bridge, where the glue would not hold well. So I was told that sliding a piece of thin (typing/copy) paper 1/16" to even 1/8" under the bridge was not a problem (tho' should be monitered).

How high is the action getting? My dreads are typically set to ~3/32" -7/64" from low E to top of the 12th fret, and 2/32" - 5/64" from the high E to 12th fret. I think this would be considered low/med-low, depending on individual taste. Can you get to an acceptible action by lowering the saddle slightly (to get a 1/32" change in the action, you need to change the saddle by 1/16")?

Take it to a luthier... and have them look at it and see what can be done.
Dave

 

[jte]

Well, the thing is I USED to be the guitar guy in town... Never tackled bridge replacement, but I did the set up when I managed a store years ago. I shaved the saddle down and tidied up the nut when I bought it years ago. Right now it's set up with almost no relief, and the action at the 12th fret is about 3/32" on either of the E strings (bottom of string to top of 12th fret). I haven't measured anything doing set ups in ages, since I quit doing it for other people.

I'll take the advice to contact Guild/FMIC regarding the warranty status, and what my options are while I monitor the bridge and the action. And, I should play it more often- maybe that's why the action felt funny to me- I'm getting wimpy and soft callouses

Thanks for the help!

John

 

[jcwu]

I slip a sheet of standard copy paper between the bridge and the face. It goes in about 1/16" or less.

I've heard if you repeatedly slip that paper in and out under the bridge, you'll eventually separate the bridge from the top.





No, I didn't hear that. I'm just being a dork.

 

[GardMan]

Depending on your own style and preference, 3/32" might be a little high for the high E (3/32" is pretty good for the low E). The other thing that would dramatically affect the feel and playability is the action at the nut. Here's Frank Fords' explanation for checking. I tend to have mine set a bit lower than Frank would recommend... not a very heavy picker. Guild also lists the specs for factory set up here...

 

[chicagowineguy]

If you can manage a trip into Chicago then Steve and Dan at Fretworks are the best in town, IMHO.

http://www.chicagofretworks.com/

 

[adorshki]

OK, gang. I need some assistance.

My F47-CE (a mahogany one) is from about 2001. I got it new and it's been well cared for. Just yesterday I noticed that the action was a bit high, and the neck has almost no relief. So I checked the top, and the bridge is just barely starting to lift from the tail side. I slip a sheet of standard copy paper between the bridge and the face. It goes in about 1/16" or less.

Ok while I don't have a local reference for you, I'm just blown away 'cause I just found the exact same problem on my F65 last weekend! And it's from the same vintage. It shares the exact same top template as an F47 although other specs were different. Don't know if the top thickness was different between the 2, but I have a slight bellying problem developing also. Was gonna call my luthier to ask how the warranty worked, 'cause I am the original owner. It's a relief to hear it's not considered a big issue and for me the problem wasn't so much the action as I just gave it an adjustment about a month ago when I went back to extra lights on strings, but it wasn't holding tune like the other 2. On the other hand the strings only had about 20 minutes on 'em when I noticed it had gone out if tune during a week's rest. She's only had maybe 100-150 hours of playing since new, the D25 by far gets the most time. Still sounded great for a jam the next day and stayed in tune for at least 20 minutes until I switched to the next in line. What gauge strings do you use? I kept lights(.012-.053) on mine for the first 7 years, the extra lights that are spec'd were just way to soft for me back then, but it got me wondering if that might have been part of the problem. I don't think the tension difference between extra lights and lights would be a problem...but could string tension be a source of neck bowing in your case?