The Tiny Tubey Thingy

littlesongs

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Juan, Coastie, Default, Fixit and Walter are all inspirational. Seeing what kind of fantastic DIY stuff they can do makes me want to try something too. While just in the planning stages at the moment, this thread will be home to the tiny tubey thingy. The "ttt" is a humble concept for a small combo amp that will also work as a head.

The power section will be salvaged from a first generation signal tester like the Eico 145 or Heathkit T-1. They run under $20 and come with a simple as heck single ended 3 watt amplifier circuit: 6X5 rectifier, 6SJ7 preamp, and 6K6 output. Oddly enough, these old signal testers tend to sound pretty decent bone stock in their rattly metal boxes, but I want to be able to use that low volume saturated sound for recordings too.

So far, my list of mods/repairs includes a three prong mains with a fuse, a better power transformer with the same values, new caps, input and output jacks, and since it will be used as a either a head or a combo, an output transformer with 4, 8 and 16 ohm taps. I'll post the Eico 145 literature and would greatly appreciate any insight you all might have into making this simple circuit work safely and happily.

Once the electrical bits are sorted, the amp will be mounted with a small speaker inside the shell of an early '40s fabric covered wooden portable radio like a Zenith Universal. The second matching radio shell would be modded into an extension cab. In the end, I hope to have a pair of cases that could be toted easily, but look too ratty or esoteric to be attractive to thieves.

If the idea actually works, a little three tube single ended amp will be pushing around 3 crunchy watts through a 6" speaker in an attractive portable unit from a bygone era. The real challenge is to put the whole thing together for under $150 using easily found components, inexpensive tubes and junk from the bargain bin at a Hamfest.

The Fender 5C1 and Silvertone 1331 are both three tube designs with a following, so I figured this wouldn't be completely without precedent, right? I have limited experience with tubes, but thought this might be a good way to get my feet wet in a matter of speaking. Is this a totally nutty idea, or does it have some potential?
 

Default

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Not at all! It's a great idea. As a matter of fact, you should be able to reuse all the iron. Speakers are very important though. The single ended 6bm8 Ga-1 that I acquired from cj is quite a bit louder that the other se amps I have, because the Weber 8" is so much more efficient.
 

capnjuan

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Hi David: I think you've the makings of a pretty cool 5C1 right there in front of you! The 6X5 / 6VAC / octal-socket rectifier hasn't been widely used in a long time. The 6K6 ... a cousin of the 6V6 ... doesn't have legions of fans as a tone tube ... good for reverb and instruments maybe but not necessarily for output. Besides, 6V6s come in all kind of flavors.

Power:

If your transformer doesn't put out at least 300-0-300VAC on the secondaries, I'm not sure you'll get what you want. If you decide to upgrade, this is Weber's version (PN W022772) of what you'd need; including a 6.3VAC heater winding and a 5VAC rectifier heater winding.

The old 6X5 rectifier uses the same octal socket as the venerable 5Y3, if you change the power transformer, you get a 5VAC winding to heat up a 5Y3 rectifier although you'd have to re-wire the socket but that isn't a very big deal. I don't know about physical conflicts. Needs to be considered; the Weber page as dimensions you can use to check it out.

Filter caps:

The 5C1 uses three 8uf/450VDC filter caps; that's really not enough .. more like 20uf/10uf/5uf all at 450VDC or higher; the F&Ts are very popular these days: Antique Electronics click capacitors on the left / Electrolytics / F&T.

Input:

The 5C1 and this Eico / Heathkit used 'grid leak bias' on the 6SJ7; a large value resistor to ground and capacitor at the input. Gibson's early GA40 LPs (also 6SJ7-driven) to bias the 6SJ7 and the GA20T Ranger uses grid-leak to bias a 12AY7. I don't know if that's a function of the nature of the 6SJ7 - that is; it has to be that way - or whether a more common method would be more suitable but in any event, to get it base-lined, the way to go is wire the front end like the 5C1.

Weber makes a killer 8" alnico speaker if it'll fit on your chassis; but it will have to be isolated. A 6V6 will drive almost any speaker you'd like it to drive.
 

littlesongs

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Thanks John and Steve! This build is going to be based on a 5C1 and more details will be forthcoming quite soon. :D
 

capnjuan

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Hi Dave; sorry about the margins. This is what I'd propose; using your existing 6SJ7, substituting a drop-in replacement 6V6 for the 6K6, using or replacing your power transformer and probably output transformer. Where you see ??s are resistors - since the DC supply voltage is unknown, these resistors are supposed to drop it to what we'd want.

schemjhv02.jpg



Also, the voltage governs the size of the 6V6 cathode resistor; the 5C1 uses 500 ohms, most single-ended amps something lower; it has to do with setting the bias by us.

Gotta go out now; some more details later. Got pics?

J
 
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