NECK RESET on my D25???? WTF!!!

kostask

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It is true that Guild bridges are thicker than the bridges on other brands. However, Guild made the bridges to fit with the rest of the guitar's design, not because they were too lazy to carve a smaller bridge, or because they had an excess of wood lying around. The height of the bridge indirectly helps define the string break angle, and that break angle is what determines how hard the top is being driven. The amount of force driving the top is a key determinant in the thickness of the top, and how big the soundboard braces are. In the case of the D25 in question, the braces and soundboard thickness were designed with the knowledge of what break angle could be expected (also implying how hard the top was being driven). Varying away from the designed thickness of the bridge will not allow the guitar to have the tone that it was designed to have (reduced bridge height and reduced saddle height result in reduced string break angle and reduced forces driving the top). In addition, the bridge thickness is also designed to allow for proper support of the saddle without allowing it to tilt forward or back. Sanding of the top of the bridge reduces this support, and further opens up the possibility that the bridge, over time, can crack at the bridge saddle slot, due to the reduced strength of the bridge and the shallower saddle slot.

Kostas
 

adorshki

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HI Ridge: I remember congratulating you on that guitar. You know I'm a D25 lover and I DO have a special relationship with mine. SO this may be a surprise coming from me but if you DON'T have any special love for the guitar then I'd second the folks who say "Move on to something you'll really like". You'll probably be able to find some one here who'll buy it as is and be happy to have the full disclosure on the condition. AND they might know someone who can give 'em a great deal on the work.
I'm a whole lot more sympathetic to that playing comfort issue now on top of everything else.
Good luck and keep us posted.
AS an aside to Kostas, thanks for that specific expalnation of why sanding down the bridge is undesirable-I'd forgotten about that whole issue of it lowering the resistance to stress cracking at the nut slot.
 

plaidseason

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If necessary, the saddle slot can (and should) be routed so that it has the right amount of depth to hold the saddle in place.

The break angle would be improved by the ramping process. And I'd argue that in its current state, the guitar does not have the tone it was designed to have. Not to mention the fact that any "ideal" break angle would have to accomodate for different preferences in action and different playing styles.

I actually had this exact work done on a DCE1 I used to own and it produced significant improvement. And it performed under Guild's suggestion to one of their authorized service centers.

-Chris
 

Ridgemont

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adorshki said:
HI Ridge: I remember congratulating you on that guitar. You know I'm a D25 lover and I DO have a special relationship with mine. SO this may be a surprise coming from me but if you DON'T have any special love for the guitar then I'd second the folks who say "Move on to something you'll really like". You'll probably be able to find some one here who'll buy it as is and be happy to have the full disclosure on the condition. AND they might know someone who can give 'em a great deal on the work.
I'm a whole lot more sympathetic to that playing comfort issue now on top of everything else.

To be honest, the last thing I really want to do is sell it. Yes, it is not the most comfortable guitar I have played, but I really love its tone. I was/am willing to make a compromise in playing comfort to have that sound. My concern was having to spend quite a bit of money on something that I may sell later and take a loss. I probably won't keep it forever and when I do sell, there is no doubt that someone here will be interested. The idea of a different guitar is intriguing, but it seems I get that "guitar itch" every 4 months or so and I really do not want to start anytime soon....

But of course Joe had to put the idea of a GF25 in my head and now I am having trouble with that. Seems like I need some rehab :wink:
 

adorshki

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Ridgemont said:
To be honest, the last thing I really want to do is sell it. Yes, it is not the most comfortable guitar I have played, but I really love its tone. I was/am willing to make a compromise in playing comfort to have that sound. My concern was having to spend quite a bit of money on something that I may sell later and take a loss.
OK then, looking at it from THAT perspective, I think $400 a very fair price for the total work you're thinking of. Plus you'll have a receipt to to validate the work that was performed which I think will enhance value compared to the usual "unknown" factor of a used instrument. I wouldn't think in terms of not taking a loss, but more realistically what's your "cost of ownership" likely to pro-rate out to? Just like a car. A car you LIKE to drive. :wink:
 

Ridgemont

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adorshki said:
Ridgemont said:
To be honest, the last thing I really want to do is sell it. Yes, it is not the most comfortable guitar I have played, but I really love its tone. I was/am willing to make a compromise in playing comfort to have that sound. My concern was having to spend quite a bit of money on something that I may sell later and take a loss.
OK then, looking at it from THAT perspective, I think $400 a very fair price for the total work you're thinking of. Plus you'll have a receipt to to validate the work that was performed which I think will enhance value compared to the usual "unknown" factor of a used instrument. I wouldn't think in terms of not taking a loss, but more realistically what's your "cost of ownership" likely to pro-rate out to? Just like a car. A car you LIKE to drive. :wink:


I've gotta admit, that is a good way to look at it. My $400 was just a rough estimate, but I plan to get a real quote in the future and get an idea of a time line. I would like to postpone the inevitable as long as possible.
 

killdeer43

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Ridgemont said:
But of course Joe had to put the idea of a GF25 in my head and now I am having trouble with that. Seems like I need some rehab :wink:
They really are swell little guitars and very loud, all things considered. My "new" F112-6 is a spittin' image of one and helps with my own....rehab!? :wink:

*Sorry, but the rehab doesn't work and "resistance is futile," as someone once said, right here on this forum.

Maybe it's all between your ears, :roll:
Joe
 

TonyT

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killdeer43 said:
Ridgemont said:
But of course Joe had to put the idea of a GF25 in my head and now I am having trouble with that. Seems like I need some rehab :wink:
They really are swell little guitars and very loud, all things considered. My "new" F112-6 is a spittin' image of one and helps with my own....rehab!? :wink:

*Sorry, but the rehab doesn't work and "resistance is futile," as someone once said, right here on this forum.

Maybe it's all between your ears, :roll:
Joe
Good God man. Why aren't you preparing?
 

workedinwesterly

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slipping the block = bogus on anything more than a POS
WIW
 

Ridgemont

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workedinwesterly said:
slipping the block = bogus on anything more than a POS
WIW

Noted. Keeping the guitar and will have a pro handle it when the time comes.
 
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