Lowering Action

Brad Little

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Okay, somewhere in the recesses of my brain, I remember that to lower the action at the 12th fret, remove 1/2 as much from the bottom of the saddle. That is, to lower it 1/32" at the 12th fret, remove 1/64" from the saddle. Anybody have any take on this?
Brad
 

West R Lee

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Brad Little said:
Okay, somewhere in the recesses of my brain, I remember that to lower the action at the 12th fret, remove 1/2 as much from the bottom of the saddle. That is, to lower it 1/32" at the 12th fret, remove 1/64" from the saddle. Anybody have any take on this?
Brad

I think it's the other way around Brad. To lower 1/32" at the 12th, you'd need to take 1/16" off the saddle.

http://www.adirondackguitar.com/Resourc ... set_up.htm

West
 

Brad Little

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West R Lee said:
I think it's the other way around Brad. To lower 1/32" at the 12th, you'd need to take 1/16" off the saddle.
http://www.adirondackguitar.com/Resourc ... set_up.htm
West
Well, at least I remembered the 1/2 part :oops:
Should make it a little easier to measure at the saddle.
Thanks, though I probably should have just looked it up myself, been getting lazy lately.
Brad
 

West R Lee

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Brad Little said:
http://www.adirondackguitar.com/Resourc ... set_up.htm[/url]
West
Well, at least I remembered the 1/2 part :oops:
Should make it a little easier to measure at the saddle.
Thanks, though I probably should have just looked it up myself, been getting lazy lately.
Brad[/quote:1wqo4mb7]

I never can remember if when making rice, it's one cup of water and two cups of rice, or 2 cups of water and 1 cup of rice. :oops:

You're welcome Bradley. You adjusting the 512?

West
 

Brad Little

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West R Lee said:
I never can remember if when making rice, it's one cup of water and two cups of rice, or 2 cups of water and 1 cup of rice. :oops:
You're welcome Bradley. You adjusting the 512?
West
No, the F-40. The 512 is spot on for how I play, the F-40 a little high for my taste. BTW, it's Bradford, not Bradley-although I've been called Bradley so much it almost seems right :)
I do have one qualm about the directions on the link. I've always used sandpaper fastened to a flat surface rather than a file, find it a little easier to keep it even.
Rice I do fine, although lately we use a rice cooker so you don't have to monitor it quite as much.
Brad
 

West R Lee

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Brad Little said:
[quote="West R Lee":3ej0jmul]
I never can remember if when making rice, it's one cup of water and two cups of rice, or 2 cups of water and 1 cup of rice. :oops:
You're welcome Bradley. You adjusting the 512?
West
No, the F-40. The 512 is spot on for how I play, the F-40 a little high for my taste. BTW, it's Bradford, not Bradley-although I've been called Bradley so much it almost seems right :)
I do have one qualm about the directions on the link. I've always used sandpaper fastened to a flat surface rather than a file, find it a little easier to keep it even.
Rice I do fine, although lately we use a rice cooker so you don't have to monitor it quite as much.
Brad[/quote:3ej0jmul]


That's what I do Bradford :wink: , sandpaper on a flat surface. I was pointing out the link for the adjustment reference. Good luck my friend.

Other things to watch out for are keeping the base of the saddle square and trash or unevenness in the slot.....I've found 'em both. Heck, I've found shims in there before. Just maintain good contact between the saddle and the slot.

West
 

devellis

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Out of necessity, I've developed a pretty sure-fire way to keep the bottom of the saddle flat and square. I double-stick-tape some sandpaper to a slab of granite that's dead flat. If I have a lot of material to remove, I'll just start working the bottom edge of the saddle across the sandpaper, checking periodically to be sure that it's not getting too lopsided or too low. It's all too easy to rock the saddle from side to side a bit unintentionally, which will mess up the flatness of the bottom edge. As I approach my target height, I take the frame from one of those tri-square tools that have a ruler sliding through a frame with one side at 90 degrees to the ruler and the other at 45 degrees. I take the ruler out and hold the saddle flat up against the long side of the the frame, (which is on its side) with the bottom edge of the saddle down on the sandpaper. I'll often put double-stick tape on the outer surface of the saddle (the side not in contact with the frame) so that my fingers can get some traction on it, and continue dragging it back and forth along the frame (on one side) and sandpaper (on the bottom), until I hit my measurement line. This little guide keeps the saddle dead upright, so that the bottom is flat and exactly perpendicular to the sides. Works like a charm. It's slow going, though, so the closer you can get freehand, before using the frame as a guide, the quicker the job will be.
 
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