Is this nearing neck reset territory? 1969 D35

MojoTooth

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Got these pics from the seller on ebay, he said the 12th fret string height is : Hi E is 5/32”, Low E is 3/16”. Looks t be in nice shape, I was thinking $700 with free shipping sounded like a nice deal?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 8051wt_962

Pic of remaining saddle height:
guildbluegrassd35oj1245.jpg
 

capnjuan

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Hi MJT: not the best pic but not a lot of break angle either.

breakangle.jpg
 

adorshki

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MojoTooth said:
Got these pics from the seller on ebay, he said the 12th fret string height is : Hi E is 5/32”, Low E is 3/16”.
IF that's accurate it means 10/64 (s/b about 5/64) and 12/64 (s/b about 6/64). Combined with what looks like a very low saddle I'd think there's something to check out very closely here. I think the answer to your question is :"It's already there". Assuming of course the truss rod isn't just floppin' around loose inside the neck.... :roll:
 

MojoTooth

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adorshki said:
. Assuming of course the truss rod isn't just floppin' around loose inside the neck.... :roll:
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks for your thoughts guys, I really liked the look of this guitar until i got the pic of the saddle and string height measurements
 

devellis

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It's possible that the guitar sounds and plays OK and that the neck is now stable. But that seems fairly unlikely. The description of the action sounds pretty high and the saddle cannot be lowered any further. From my perspective, this wouldn't be a good guitar to buy without an opportunity to play it first.
 

GardMan

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MojoTooth said:
Got these pics from the seller on ebay, he said the 12th fret string height is : Hi E is 5/32”, Low E is 3/16”.

Clicked the wrong button! So I'll just finish what I intended to say in edit mode...

I like my Guilds set up with a shade more than 3/32" on the lowE, and ~2/32 on the hiE. With the remaining saddle, no way you'll get there (unless the truss is so loose the neck looks like a long bow). So I'd be very cautious...I think you are in neck reset territory...
 

wontox

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Just a thought concerning neck resets; Guilds seem very susceptible to this repair, perhaps because they are built lightly to facilitate the awesome sound, perhaps also because they are so cherished as to be kept for decades. On my forty year-old D40, the last four inches of fretboard independent of the neck had dived almost 3/8” into the body.

If it’s nearly inevitable that the lower fretboard will be levered into the body by the tension of the strings over a number of years, it seems that the factory installation of a thin diagonal push-type turnbuckle from the bottom of the neck block to the center of the uppermost ladder brace would not only impede this downward pull but would allow periodic adjustment of the fretboard clearance to the strings as well. The top has practically no reverberation above the soundhole, and it’s hard to see why the installation of a ten-dollar part could not prevent multi-hundred dollar resets down the road.

Another preventive measure could be to secure a strap post with a long screw through the center of the heel into the neck block—my D-40’s heel had migrated almost 3/16” inch away from the back binding, allowing the neck to angle into the body, and it’s conceivable that a screw installed as mentioned at the factory could have prevented this.

Wontox
 

Ross

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wontox said:
If it’s nearly inevitable that the lower fretboard will be levered into the body by the tension of the strings over a number of years, it seems that the factory installation of a thin diagonal push-type turnbuckle from the bottom of the neck block to the center of the uppermost ladder brace would not only impede this downward pull but would allow periodic adjustment of the fretboard clearance to the strings as well. The top has practically no reverberation above the soundhole, and it’s hard to see why the installation of a ten-dollar part could not prevent multi-hundred dollar resets down the road.

Another preventive measure could be to secure a strap post with a long screw through the center of the heel into the neck block—my D-40’s heel had migrated almost 3/16” inch away from the back binding, allowing the neck to angle into the body, and it’s conceivable that a screw installed as mentioned at the factory could have prevented this.

Wontox

I've wondered about this type of bracing also. I envisioned a longitudinal metal rod from neck block to heel block, with a turnbuckle that's adjustable through the soundhole. If I wasn't all thumbs, I'd try to make one.
 
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