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John Kidder has so graciously offered up a basket-case X-350 to the community in this thread, figured that it would be good to have a dedicated thread.
Refresher post
Carefully remove binding and replace with closest match. Try a thin colored wash on scrap, to try an match the natural aging? I'm thinking tinted lacquer?
Interesting use of an amalgamator solution to repair a crazed finish. Lacquer drop and a cork block/2500 grit to repair?
Make a repo from the warped guard (just in case. ) Gentle heat and slow and gentle compression to try to flatten it out?
Repairing fingerboard divots.
Considering that it needs a refret, that may or not be a problem. My Gretsch has nibs on it's binding. Maybe there are nibs on this one?
Refresher post
john_kidder said:The back bindng is shot.
Carefully remove binding and replace with closest match. Try a thin colored wash on scrap, to try an match the natural aging? I'm thinking tinted lacquer?
The plywood is delaminating, shoot some thin hideglue under the separations and clamp down with a sandbag? Maybe even a heated sandbag?Layers of ply are separating on the waist of the bass rim.
The peghead surface looks corroded near the nut, as if it had been eaten away by something.
Interesting use of an amalgamator solution to repair a crazed finish. Lacquer drop and a cork block/2500 grit to repair?
The pickguard is amazingly warped.
Make a repo from the warped guard (just in case. ) Gentle heat and slow and gentle compression to try to flatten it out?
The frets are shot, and the fingerboard has huge divots all up and down the neck - Eiichi the luthier said it looked as if had been played by an aggressive blues guy who never cut his fingernails.
Repairing fingerboard divots.
It's had a replacement neck binding sometime, which seems to have been heatshrunk over the ends of the frets.
Considering that it needs a refret, that may or not be a problem. My Gretsch has nibs on it's binding. Maybe there are nibs on this one?