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Where can I find for year 1968 Serial AJ2034. Looking for bridge from that area to match foot print.
Guild D40 Bridge
- Thread starter Guild Player Robt1
- Start date
hansmoust
Enlightened Member
Hello Guild Player Robt1,
Welcome! May be able to help you out , but there are some variables. Just get back with me through my website and we'll figure it out.
Sincerely,
Hans Moust
www.guitarsgalore.nl
Br1ck
Senior Member
Hans helped me out with my 70 D 35, but any good repair person can make you one. An original will be Brazilian though.
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Thank you. My luthier said Guild offers a bridge that is 1 inch shorter than original . Looking for a rosewood bridge that would have same footprint. I couldn't get through to Hans, his website is not functioning.
Hello Brick. Thank you for responding. I was hoping to find a source for vintage parts before I decided to use a smaller bridge. Any suggestions?
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Thank you: I did go to mousthans@gmail.com, but site didn't reveal any way to contact or converse. I might be missing something. any idea would be welcome.
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Hans. Hello I went to your site mousthans@ gmail.com, but could not find a way to converse with you. Please help
Heath
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That’s an email address, not a website. I’d send him an email to the mousthans@ Gmail.com (eliminating the space I added) address.
Br1ck
Senior Member
If your repair person did not even suggest that he make one, I'd find another guy to work on my guitar. Suggesting a smaller bridge is not the right answer to the problem. I mean, removing your bridge tracing it on a rosewood blank and contouring to match is pretty basic stuff. The guy who did all the work on my D 35 said he could easily do it. Still. I was able to get an original from Hans, but that was six or seven years ago, and he only had two. I don't know how mine would differ from yours though. Money was about the same, $100.
adorshki
Reverential Member
Hi Robert welcome aboard.
I assume you got that contact info on his Guitars Galore website, and that gmail address shows up under "Contact".
Understand that's not a "live chat" site, it's a regular email exchange, so enter your name and contact info and the message re the D40 bridge in the "message" box and give him a little time as he has a regular luthier business as well as answering questions at his site and here.
If you want a genuine replacement or the closest thing to it, he's the best place to start. IIRC '68 was a transition year from a "through-slot" to a "drop-in saddle" style bridge, that's one of the variables he mentioned, I think, and the outline may have changed sightly. Hans is the guy who knows enough to ask those kinds of questions.
Do NOT bother with Guild/Oxnard re spare parts, they have nothing from that time period, not even documentation. Saw an instance a couple of years ago where a member ordered a replacement bridge for his (imported) GAD F150ce and they sent him something that had incorrect pin spacing, twice, because they weren't aware of the subtle differences between the bridges for the 2 different gens of GAD's let alone the domestic builds.
And like Br1ck says, if your luthier doesn't want to consider making a new one using your old one for a template, maybe you should consider finding someone with a little better skill set.
It occurs to me that maybe he's just trying to save you the extra expense, but then it occurs to me he ought to know better than to offer a smaller outline than yours, and that something else probably won't be right in addition to the size, like the afore-mentioned pin spacing.
In any case "shorter" means less mass, and proper bridge mass is important in getting the top moving. He should know that. Otherwise he's just a repair tech not a luthier, and a '68 D40 deserves better.
Hope that helps.
SFIV1967
Venerated Member
No Al, that is the wrong advise. Look at Hans page under Contact, he stated there you need to send a regular e-mail to the given e-mail address. Not via the webpage.
Ralf
jfilm
Member
I actually just had a new bridge made for my '65 D-40. They did a good job with it in my opinion, though the Brazilian RW is very distinctive on original bridges. Mine has the through slot saddle.
Br1ck
Senior Member
Very nice work, indicative of what good luthiers can do.
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Thank You. I can't believe I confused the two. very good catch. embarrassed ten fold. Thank You again.
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I actually just had a new bridge made for my '65 D-40. They did a good job with it in my opinion, though the Brazilian RW is very distinctive on original bridges. Mine has the through slot saddle.
Yes, thanks for the info.Hi Robert welcome aboard.
I assume you got that contact info on his Guitars Galore website, and that gmail address shows up under "Contact".
Understand that's not a "live chat" site, it's a regular email exchange, so enter your name and contact info and the message re the D40 bridge in the "message" box and give him a little time as he has a regular luthier business as well as answering questions at his site and here.
If you want a genuine replacement or the closest thing to it, he's the best place to start. IIRC '68 was a transition year from a "through-slot" to a "drop-in saddle" style bridge, that's one of the variables he mentioned, I think, and the outline may have changed sightly. Hans is the guy who knows enough to ask those kinds of questions.
Do NOT bother with Guild/Oxnard re spare parts, they have nothing from that time period, not even documentation. Saw an instance a couple of years ago where a member ordered a replacement bridge for his (imported) GAD F150ce and they sent him something that had incorrect pin spacing, twice, because they weren't aware of the subtle differences between the bridges for the 2 different gens of GAD's let alone the domestic builds.
And like Br1ck says, if your luthier doesn't want to consider making a new one using your old one for a template, maybe you should consider finding someone with a little better skill set.
It occurs to me that maybe he's just trying to save you the extra expense, but then it occurs to me he ought to know better than to offer a smaller outline than yours, and that something else probably won't be right in addition to the size, like the afore-mentioned pin spacing.
In any case "shorter" means less mass, and proper bridge mass is important in getting the top moving. He should know that. Otherwise he's just a repair tech not a luthier, and a '68 D40 deserves better.
Hope that helps.
adorshki
Reverential Member
Note Ralf corrected me about using his site, apparently the "contact" function isn't working right now. The email address should be good.
adorshki
Reverential Member
Man that's a nice top.I actually just had a new bridge made for my '65 D-40. They did a good job with it in my opinion, though the Brazilian RW is very distinctive on original bridges. Mine has the through slot saddle.
Russell Letson
Member
It's not an utterly basic job to make an exact-match bridge--nor is finding the right piece of wood always easy--but it does demand a pretty decent level of skill and fussiness. I've had replacement bridges made by two of the Twin Cities' best luthiers (one for an ancient Martin, the other for my D-40), and it took a while to match the wood and then do the actual work. In both cases, absolute historical accuracy was sacrificed for better intonation (the Martin) and a drop-in, completely compensated saddle (the Guild). Because these are not museum pieces, they're working guitars.