Guild acoustic basses

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Hello
New to the forum. Looking into current production Guild acoustic basses, specifically the B-140e and B-240e. Having trouble getting my hands on either of them because of supply chain issues. Curious if anybody here has tried one or both, can tell me anything about the sonic differences between them, and how they hold up against other well made solid top basses (Martin, boulder creek, Breedlove, Tacoma).
 

fronobulax

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Welcome. I'm afraid I can't even offer an uninformed opinion. I'm stuck in the past with a B50.

I think a couple of folks have played one or the other so maybe they will chime in.
 
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Thanks for your reply. I would love to be stuck in the past with a B50 but unfortunately that’s not in the cards!
 

Nuuska

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Frono is a real bass player - so it is fine for him to be stuck w B-50
I'm guitar player - so I'm happy w fretless B-30

Yup - I could not afford frets - sort of like some folks are so poor they have to eat cheese w mould - drink old wine - and drive cars that have no roof . . . 😏
 
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I note that according to https://guildguitars.com/g/westerly-b-140e-nat/ the 140E has a 34" scale but the 240 is a 30 3/4" scale. https://guildguitars.com/g/b-240e/ That might be enough to make the choice for you and so your decision is simplified to Yes or No.
I wasn’t sure how much the scale length would matter since the body dimensions appear pretty close. Also, the shorter scale model has an arched back and the longer scale one retails for over $400 more than the short scale for no apparent reason.
 

fronobulax

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For many years I thought I could not play a 34" scale bass because when I tried my hand hurt. I got my hands on a Guild Pilot and no pain. I figured out it was the neck profile of a Fender Precision that was the problem and not the scale length. Nevertheless switching back and forth is not effortless for me. Some guitar players prefer shorter scale basses but other guitar players don't even notice. There are some differences in string tension and tone but at my level of skill (i.e. not much) I choose by what is easiest for me to play.

In theory an arched back would project better. That seems to be irrelevant unless you intend to play without plugging in to an amp.

Guild has been using several overseas factories and the trend, with the electrics, has been to aim for a lower price point when switching. I wonder if @SFIV1967 has some background on which model was out first and where they are thought to be made?
 

SFIV1967

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Guild has been using several overseas factories and the trend, with the electrics, has been to aim for a lower price point when switching. I wonder if @SFIV1967 has some background on which model was out first and where they are thought to be made?
The Westerly Collection B-140E was introduced around May 2015.
The Westerly Collection B-240E and the fretless B-240EF were introduced 3 years after around June 2018. The list price was half of the B-140E! ($499 vs. $1,010). The B-240E was clearly designed for cost if you compare the specs.

The B-140E started with a G3 serial number, here a 2020 model:

1660931395579.png 1660931417480.png

The B-240E started with a G2 serial number, here two 2021 ones (two subsequent serial numbers), and they have the additional factory production number below:

1660933060409.png 1660931647135.jpeg 1660932000378.png

As you see they use that newer style label on the B-240E and also the serial number marking (G2 with that added clear film internal factory floor number) would somehow indicate that the G2 and G3 come both out of different factories in China. But as far as I believe to remember both had Grand Rewards (GREE) hang tags! I have to look for that previous discussion.
So maybe the different B-240E label (as was used on all 200 models) was by purpose to identify the lower price point.

Ralf
 
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twocorgis

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The Westerly Collection B-140E was introduced around May 2015.
The Westerly Collection B-240E and the fretless B-240EF were introduced 3 years after around June 2018. The list price was half of the B-140E! ($499 vs. $1,010). The B-240E was clearly designed for cost if you compare the specs.

The B-140E started with a G3 serial number, here a 2020 model:

1660931395579.png 1660931417480.png

The B-240E started with a G2 serial number, here two 2021 ones (two subsequent serial numbers), and they have the additional factory production number below:

1660933060409.png 1660931647135.jpeg 1660932000378.png

As you see they use that newer style label on the B-240E and also the serial number marking (G2 with that added clear film internal factory floor number) would somehow indicate that the G2 and G3 come both out of different factories in China. But as far as I believe to remember both had Grand Rewards (GREE) hang tags! I have to look for that previous discussion.
So maybe the different B-240E label (as was used on all 200 models) was by purpose to identify the lower price point.

Ralf
Also, the B-140E is all solid woods. After owning a B50 for a time, I found that I prefer the 34" scale of my New Hartford made B54ce, but they have become near impossible to find, as they didn't make many of them.
 
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I recently bought a Guild B-240EF. Happy to share my thoughts. Context: I'm an intermediate level player. My main bass is an electric Yamaha BB2000. I'm into blues/country/folk/rock/soul. Once a week I jam with two guitarists and a harmonica player; we do occasional low-key gigs (5 or 6 this year) but mostly we just like to get together to make music for ourselves. One year ago I bought an acoustic Sigma BME+ to play at home unplugged along with streamed music. At first I didn't feel super comfortable with the Sigma, but it grew on me and now I love it.

Now, the problem with playing along to streamed music is it isn't always standard tuning, and when a song comes up that's slightly sharp or flat, I don't want to re-tune my guitar: I just play slightly out of tune or skip the song altogether. The solution, I decided, would be to go fretless. However, my technique is not perfect: I've never really tried to place my fingers just behind the frets like they say you should. Especially down at the low end, when I stretch 4 half-steps (happens a lot) my pinky is just barely clearing three frets. So going from fretted 34" scale to fretless I figured the B-240's 30.75" scale would have fret-lines close to where I actually put my fingers. It turns out I was right. With this scale I can leave my index on the first fret line of a string and put my pinky right on the fourth fret line. Muscle memory from playing a 34" fretted with sub-optimal form translates perfectly to playing 30.75" fretless ! So as far as now having a fretless acoustic I can play without having to think about fingering, success. I want to say to anyone nervous about switching from fretted 34" to fretless: going shorter scale was a good idea for me. I was concerned that the strings would be floppy on shorter scale, but it turns out the tension is just fine.

At first I didn't like where the bridge is placed. It is relatively close to the sound-hole, and when you hold the guitar on your thigh and naturally drape your right arm over, the plucking hand wants to go right on top of the bridge. After some experimenting, I found that by using a long strap and kicking the tail out to my right, my hand wants to pluck over the hole, which seems to be the sweet spot. Also, doing this angles the neck up and brings the lowest notes closer, both improvements over holding the guitar on thigh with neck straight out level. So: I recommend using a long strap.

Sound: unplugged it plays at about 45-50 dB (I got an app to test it). It is just loud enough to play along with streamed music. I like to listen to my music in the range of 50-60 dB. Sigma plays unplugged slightly louder, right around 50 dB. I do wish the B-240EF was just a few decibels louder unplugged. As of now, the B-240EF unplugged is far too trebly for my taste; it sounds thin. The Sigma is definitely bassier. However, I recall I didn't like the sound of the Sigma at first either. They have exactly the same strings. So I'm thinking the bronze strings maybe mellow with age. I'm going to give it a little while.

Plugged in this bass is awesome. Where the Sigma tends to cause feedback, the B-240EF does not. Turn the treble all the way off, crank the bass and the amplified sound is amazing - with a kick-drum thud on each pluck. I love it. In fact, it might become my main bass. The Sigma amplified is also more percussive than the electric Yamaha - must be a thing with the acoustic body + piezo pick-ups. The B-240EF hits a lot harder, though. My theory is that it is due to the placement of the bridge. The Sigma's bridge is back further from the sound-hole. I understand that due to the X-bracing, a bridge closer to the sound hole is on a more rigid part of the top. Could be something similar to the difference between 12 and 14 fret acoustic guitars, where, I've heard, the 14-fret tends to have a tighter, snappier attack because the bridge is closer to the sound-hole.

I hope this helps someone thinking about buying a B-240EF. Also, if anyone understands bridge placement and its possible effects on sound, I'm all ears.
 

GGJaguar

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Welcome to LTG and nice informative post for your first! Here's a pic of the Westerly series B-240EF for those who don't know...

1670692707342.png
 

fronobulax

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I recently bought a Guild B-240EF.

Welcome and thank you.

You have solved your problem but you might be interested to know that "one finger per fret" is considered bad technique by some bass instructors, especially those who play fretless or upright. The thinking as I understand it is that a stretched pinky is not typically strong enough to accurately and consistently press and hold a string. So don't stretch the pinky but use an un-stretched pinky or just the ring finger and pinky together. For giggles try an exercise where all four fingers are on the string for every note you play or just tape the ring finger together and play.

I "play at bass" and use whatever technique works for me and only change and explore alternatives when there is something that needs tp be fixed. For the most part I now only use three fingers below the fifth fret. My biggest surprise from doing that was that I could easily switch between a 30.5" and 34" scale bass and not get sore hands or lose all muscle memory.

In pre-streaming days there were playback apps that would adjust the pitch of what was being played. Fretless would have never occurred to me :)
 

dadglasser

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Welcome. I'm afraid I can't even offer an uninformed opinion. I'm stuck in the past with a B50.

I think a couple of folks have played one or the other so maybe they will chime in.
Another B50 owner here and also unable to comment on the new models.

1670719739311.png
 
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