I have had this many years. Finally may be time to do the binding...first patch job by a pro was very poor. May try to patch/match again. One pickup was rewound about 15 years ago. Took a few tries to get it matched...still not quite. Interesting how some of the inlays appear to be, or are, uneven... no serial number anywhere...
Early Aristocrat
- Thread starter fredcapo
- Start date
ClaytonS15
Member
That’s a really early one. Very cool.
matsickma
Senior Member
I have an old Aristocrat that I thought didn't have a serial number. However when I removed the float "harp" stop the SN was stamped on the bottom of the guitar under the chrome floating stop. It was very near where the bottom strap lug is located. You might check that area out. I also saw another Aristocrat for sale 10+ years ago that had the SN located in the same location.
M
M
SFIV1967
Venerated Member
Wonderful! That seems to be a 1954 one from the first year it was in production.
The 1954 catalog showed this picture:
Ralf
The 1954 catalog showed this picture:
Ralf
Oh, that is very cool! 
walrus
walrus
Guildadelphia
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This is just me....IMO: I would get the binding repaired properly but not mess with anything else unless it effected the structural integrity and/or playability of the guitar (if it needed a neck reset, frets, cracks repaired, braces re glued, etc). That being said, if you are going to keep the guitar forever and ever there's nothing wrong with a well done restoration. It all comes down to whatever makes you happy.
I would also do the binding at least. The rest is up to you!
walrus
walrus
matsickma
Senior Member
Long term is it a keeper?
What do you think you could get for it as is?
If you are willing to sell it for around $2500 a pro refinish with lacquer would probably also get you $2500 so you would eat the refinish cost but could sell it at your current asking price of $2500. If your asking price is $3000 then if you decide to sell it you will be out the refinish cost and an additional $500 of depreciation due to the refinish.
Thats my assessment.
M
What do you think you could get for it as is?
If you are willing to sell it for around $2500 a pro refinish with lacquer would probably also get you $2500 so you would eat the refinish cost but could sell it at your current asking price of $2500. If your asking price is $3000 then if you decide to sell it you will be out the refinish cost and an additional $500 of depreciation due to the refinish.
Thats my assessment.
M
I think I'd just have the binding glued back down and replace those splice blocks if they're no longer wide enough to cover the gaps and/or a poor material match. And I wouldn't mess with refinishing it -- maybe consider redoing the face of the headstock where it's actively flaking off, but that's only a maybe.
jp
Senior Member
I would (and have done) two things in your situation.
1) I agree with everyone above to definitely have the binding redone. The overall impact on look and appeal will be tremendous, if your luthier will maintains the integrity of the aged look too. It also helps with the next main fix - playability.
2) I would put more effort into making it as playable and enjoyable for you as possible. Address all structural, neck and fret issues, and action. Resolve any electronics issues it may have.
I did this with my first '59 T-100D which included binding fixes and a complete refret. It was an actual under-the-bed find, and the results after the repairs still made it too much of a museum piece for me.
Guilds are made to be played!
1) I agree with everyone above to definitely have the binding redone. The overall impact on look and appeal will be tremendous, if your luthier will maintains the integrity of the aged look too. It also helps with the next main fix - playability.
2) I would put more effort into making it as playable and enjoyable for you as possible. Address all structural, neck and fret issues, and action. Resolve any electronics issues it may have.
I did this with my first '59 T-100D which included binding fixes and a complete refret. It was an actual under-the-bed find, and the results after the repairs still made it too much of a museum piece for me.
Guilds are made to be played!
Thanks for the feedback. I have an amazing low profile luthier friend who can do an amazing job on any and all aspects that I decide to do. He trained under a guy who was the right-hand man of a guy named Les...cant say any more...
I am no shredder, so the playability is fine for me. I am leaning toward binding with amber lacquer touchup, headstock face black relacquer, and maybe touchup of the washboarded area. I would trust him to lightly sand and overspray with tinted lacquer as needed and make it so it does not look new. He will probably do all of the above for around 500 bucks or less.
I possibly would sell it as is
FYI here are some examples of work he did for me recently. He did the neck binding and total refinish. Now it does not look old or worn but has a warm look. Its a 56 L5 CES that i sold earlier this year. It was previously covered in some kind of amber shellac or varnish.
I am no shredder, so the playability is fine for me. I am leaning toward binding with amber lacquer touchup, headstock face black relacquer, and maybe touchup of the washboarded area. I would trust him to lightly sand and overspray with tinted lacquer as needed and make it so it does not look new. He will probably do all of the above for around 500 bucks or less.
I possibly would sell it as is
FYI here are some examples of work he did for me recently. He did the neck binding and total refinish. Now it does not look old or worn but has a warm look. Its a 56 L5 CES that i sold earlier this year. It was previously covered in some kind of amber shellac or varnish.