D25 vs G37

[yettoblaster]

...maple records the truest.

I believe it!

I have found the most harmonically overtone rich guitars to be hard to get on tape (or whatever).

All that lush array of frequencies seem to really create standing waves or something.

Anything that breaks it up a little: arched back, smaller size body; maple s/b; or even an index card covering 1/4 of the soundhole like Leo Kottke used to record: seems to help.

Also: turning off the ceiling fan (not that I have any experience with this frustration)! :idea:

 

[adorshki]

All that lush array of frequencies seem to really create standing waves or something.
Anything that breaks it up a little: arched back, smaller size body; maple s/b;

Interesting...F65ce's are all of those and shallow (2-/12") to boot... Marc has 3 of 'em now. He made that comment about his F65's.

 

[yettoblaster]

All that lush array of frequencies seem to really create standing waves or something.
Anything that breaks it up a little: arched back, smaller size body; maple s/b;

Interesting...F65ce's are all of those and shallow (2-/12") to boot... Marc has 3 of 'em now. He made that comment about his F65's.

I was thinking of dreadnoughts as being hard to record sometimes. My old Gibson J-45, a round-shouldered "dread," at least in depth and width, was a real problem to record as far back as I can remember.

I blamed many bad recordings on crummy idler wheels on old Lafayette tape recorders back in the sixties. Later on I found out I could duplicate the wow and flutter on state-of-the-art equipment in the seventies too! :shock:

 

[yettoblaster]

I've not committed various model specs to memory, however based on the bracing in the back I'd say it's solid. The Guilds I own with laminated backs have no bracing in the back...

I agree. That center seam strip of wood indicates a solid back to me, just as reinforcing strips inside the sides also does (at least on reputable brands like Guilds).

My '61 J-45 (Gibson) had the center seam in the back, but nothing on the sides. As it turns out yes, J-45's of that era were solid top and back, with laminated sides.

I have seen some imported guitars where the makers did backflips trying to match the inside/outside grain on laminated wood to catch the unwary who looked inside to see if the grain matched. But I've never seen a quality US made company do that.

 

[GardMan]

Here's a D6 that's on eBay right now. It appears to have a flat back rather than an arched one. Is a D6 an all solid wood model?

http://cgi.ebay.com/GUILD-USA-D6-S-West ... 43a060a6c3

Yep... I think I goofed. I didn't check my source (Beesley's Guitar History #5), and just assumed the D-6, like the D-4, had an arched back.

In my defense, Beesley is pretty ambiguous about the back specs on many of the Guild dreads. For example, on the D-4, the back is described as "arched and made of laminated mahogany," but the D-6 and D-15/16/17 series backs are described as "mahogany back and sides." From all the pics I have seen, the 15/16/17 have arched laminated backs, as well. Guess I just assumed the D-6 did, as well.

 

[adorshki]

Yep... I think I goofed. I didn't check my source (Beesley's Guitar History #5), and just assumed the D-6, like the D-4, had an arched back.

To tell you the truth I was thinking the same thing but when I saw the pics I knew it had to be flat. In all the descriptions of Guild dreadnoughts I've read, flat backs are always solid, and arched backs are always laminated. The D6 model itself was a surprise to me. I was only aware of the DV6 until now, and we already know about the variations in that model .
I used to think an appropriate disclaimer for any Guild model was: "Specs may vary by year of production". Now I think a more accurate statement would be "Specs WILL vary by year of production.' :lol:

 

[Qvart]

I looked at a late-'70's D-25 and would have bought it if the condition was better. Nice woody sound and good projection. Thick-ish neck. Also checked out an '85 G-37 but didn't like it as much: more trebly and not as boomy. Great (thin-ish) maple neck though. I just like the sound of 'hog better and would probably have a D-25 by now if it weren't for an '83 D35 that popped up on CL in my town. That one takes care of my acoustic needs (for now!). At some point the collection will include something rosewood. I don't feel the need for a maple acoustic. Then there's always ash... and then... and then... :lol:

 

[kitniyatran]

Yep... I think I goofed. I didn't check my source (Beesley's Guitar History #5), and just assumed the D-6, like the D-4, had an arched back.

To tell you the truth I was thinking the same thing but when I saw the pics I knew it had to be flat. In all the descriptions of Guild dreadnoughts I've read, flat backs are always solid, and arched backs are always laminated. The D6 model itself was a surprise to me. I was only aware of the DV6 until now, and we already know about the variations in that model .
I used to think an appropriate disclaimer for any Guild model was: "Specs may vary by year of production". Now I think a more accurate statement would be "Specs WILL vary by year of production.' :lol:

So, it was YOU who stole Scratch's Specs?! :lol:

 

[adorshki]

So, it was YOU who stole Scratch's Specs?! :lol:

Hey! I came by those legitimately from some guy on Craigslist who lived in the library. He said it was an accident that the serial number got obliterated when he was re-finishing 'em to spruce 'em up for sale. Even told me if I came back the next day he'd have the case ready. Couldn't find him the next day though, guess he moved.

 

[SmithfieldFair]

Philr -- I, too, have both a Westerly D-25 (1974) and a G-37 (76). I've owned several other D-25s of varying years and even a D-4 and D-4-12. I bought the G-37 new and wouldn't give it up for all the tea in China. The D-25 is the second in line for saving, but it's a very different story - it was pieced together by luthier/repairman Holger Notzel from bits from all over - the body bought off Ebay without a headstock, etc. Both instruments are dreadnaughts with arched backs. The G-37 is maple back and sides stained to look like mahogany with a sunburst spruce top. The D-25 (FrankenGuild) is mahogany top, back and sides with a quarter-sawn mahogany neck. Both are fairly plain in their appointments. The sonic differences are that the G-37 is smoother with slightly less projection and volume, but still a ferocious sound. The FrankenGuild has a warm, slightly muted and dark sound with plenty of volume and projection. Both are almost too much guitar for some small rooms (for road work I use small jumbo GF-25s), but are amazing in the studio for depth and clarity and eveness of tone.

If you are looking for a live performance guitar - especially for solo work, I would definitely go for a D-25 - whether using mic. or pick-up. If you are going for strictly a studio guitar - the G-37 is the better, in my humble opinion. If you are looking for an all-in-one, both serve adequately, but I would shop around. Not all Westerly D25s are created equal and some are outstanding while others are simply adequate - soundwise. As far as the D-4 series - I found them only adequate, though nicely done. Very light weight and entry-level compared to the D25. Personally, I believe if there is such a thing as the flagship instrument for a brand, Guild's is the D-25. You can't go far wrong with one; you just pick your shade and go.

I hope this helps, but remember what I said somewhere near the top - if you take any and all of my Westerly Guilds away (I think I have 12 or 13, can't remember right off hand) leaving me only one - I would go for the G-37, it's a brilliant guitar. Second in line would be the D-25 FrankenGuild. All the best. dbs

 

[TonyT]

Really good info. The cool thing about an "adequate" D-25 is that even adequate, it's gonna still be pretty darn good.